This just started happening a few rides ago. 4x4 and full lock were working fine. Now it won't go into 4x4 or lock. Took the servo motor off and it turns and operates just fine when I press the 4x4 button and lock button so I know its not that. Been doing some research and people seem to be saying that the slider (picture with red arrow pointing to it) should be all the way to the right for 2 wheel drive, middle for 4x4 and all the way left for locked. I tried pushing it to the left and it won't move any farther than what you can see in the picture. Seems like it's hitting something. It'll move all the way to the right, but I can only move it about 1/4" to the left (where it is in the pic now). Been trying to find an exploded view of the front diff with no luck. The Yamaha parts diagrams don't even show this slider as a part (diagram I have attached).
Couple of questions. Anyone have an exploded diagram of what the front diff parts should look like for a 2009 Rhino 700 FI
Special Edition? Some people say there should be a "fork" that the slider moves but I can't see that on the parts diagram either. Is my pic with the blue line pointing to the fork? Anyone with any ideas? Would like to get my 4x4 working again so I can do some snow wheeling soon.
The middle two tires on 6x6 are spinning. the drive shaft from middle to rear is spinning and the shaft from middle to front is spinning. I have the entire thing jacked up. When I first start it both middle tires will spin and the front two will spin for about 10 seconds. the rear tires do nothing. I can spin the rears wheels both forward or backwards at same time or one forward and one backward and vise versa. Is this normal. Do I have a rear differential broke or is something not engaging the shaft to the gears in the back. Would somebody please tell me how all the drive system works together so I can find something to fix of replace.
I have an American Landmaster LM500 with an old style snow plow hook-up. Unfortunately, the mounting bracket broke & I lost the key part where the plow receiver connects to the cross bar with two pins.
I checked with customer service & they said...
On Monday, January 10, 2022, 03:25:29 PM EST, Feedback <[email protected]> wrote: Sounds like it may be the old style push tube universal mount system, it looks like those have been discontinued but we may still have some back there. I believe they are sold as a kit though and they are not cheap, part # 15329. I’ve included a photo below since the web store does not have a photo for that part.
I checked with our parts department and neither the kit or the components are available as that was the older style hook up system. The only option at this point would to have something manufactured. All of our current plows are either dual actuated or winch hookup so we would only have components for those models as of currently.
In the picture, below, it would be item #5 (the one with the two mounting brackets that hold the pins that the plow mount latches onto) - not the top one in the picture, but the one below t hat.
I have all the other parts - but the missing part is critical to mounting the plow.
Does anyone happen to have an old one they could part with - or have an alternative solution?
The rig wasn't optimal, as you had to use the winch to raise & lower the blade & manually adjust the angle. It kept falling off when I was plowing snow - as the pins that hold it in only have a groove for a pin clip & they would often get knocked off & then the plow would hang down & you'd loose the pin - then it would get all messed up.
Thanks in advance for any advice. I am thinking of going to a welding shop to see if they can create something - but it will still have the same limitations as before - the pins are highly specific and not cheap
15331 Pin, Shear Univ Mount Blade PART #: 15331
Its maker has affectionately dubbed it Teslaris, for obvious reasons.
The Polaris RZR RS1 UTV has a one-liter, two-cylinder engine that from the factory has around 100 horsepower, making the 1,383-pound (627-kilogram) UTV very quick. But there’s always room for more power in one of these vehicles, and instead of fettling with its engine, one dune vehicle aficionado decided to swap in the rear drive motor out of a Tesla Model 3 / Model Y.
We don’t know how many of the battery modules the put in the vehicle, but it doesn’t appear to be much heavier than stock and it goes up sand dunes with remarkable ease. Depending on which version of Model 3 was the motor donor, the drive unit could have either 261 or 325 horsepower, as long as the battery pack can supply enough wattage and voltage.
Judging by how easily it flies up the steep sand dune, almost lifting the front wheels off the ground under harder acceleration, it’s safe to say it looks like a real hoot. The steep grade you see it tackling in the video uploaded by the electric UTV’s creator, Ron Cobbley, is located in the St. Anthony, Idaho sand dunes.
We found more videos on vehicle’s official Instagram account and aside from how interesting it is to see an electric powertrain in an application like this (and how it changes the vehicle), we also noticed that you really hear the tires on the sand more. Usually, this sound is drowned out by the engine.
The sound’s tone and pitch probably change with speed, giving the driver audible information to help him or her gauge their speed. You don’t really get this in a road-going EV driven on tarmac, which is why it’s trickier to drive an EV quickly - specifically because you have no way of knowing how fast you’re going just by ear.