Idle Air Control (IAC) Needed

2scoops · March 26, 2013

I am in need of an IAC for my throttle body. I contacted JMC and they said I had to buy the whole throttle body for $209. I left a message at Joyner USA...they haven't called back. I found a Chinese company which have them for $17, but shipping is $32. With that I still have to hope it is the correct one which arrives.

Does anyone happen to have one laying around they would sell?

I understand a workaround would be to eliminate it and use the idle screw. I believe that would cause problems with cold start ups??? Elevation changes???

March 27, 2013

Shouldn't be a problem on cold startups except you may have to throttle for only a couple of seconds at first. The computer richens the fuel mixture when cold to run correctly. Elevation changes don't get handled by the IAC. I don't use one in mine.

Lenny

Kinarfi · March 28, 2013

I don;t know if my IAC works or not, it was failing intermittently and then I found the idle screw and adjusted it for 900 RPM and haven't had a problem since, like Lenny says, you really don't need it, disconnect it, set your idle, reconnect it, and you should be fine whether it works or not, unless it is stuck open.

2scoops · March 29, 2013

Yeah, I disconnected it and it runs choppy & sputters even when I advance the throttle. I have a fuel controller & have disconnected the O2 sensor. I don't know if that has anything to do with it. Why Lenny's & yours runs & mine does not? I have one on order from China. I know it is a bad IAC, that is not in question.

Kinarfi · March 29, 2013

Have you tried disassembling it? does it have any free play on the plunger that closes the air hole.

2scoops · April 2, 2013

Yes, I disassembled the IAC. There is a coil inside and wires finer than frogs hair. Most likely when I cleaned my throttle body and played around with the plunger I damaged some wires.

Yesterday I plugged the IAC hole and attempted to manage the idle using the idle screw. It would idle but was still choppy and bounced around. I also played with the fuel controller. It made it better, but not good enough to go out on a long ride.

charlie · April 3, 2013

Just going out on a limb here but your fuel and fuel filter are good right and it's not musfiring???

2scoops · April 3, 2013

I am not ruling out that it could be a combination of things, but since I cleaned my throttle body I have had problems.

2scoops · April 9, 2013

The trooper is back up and running better than ever. It idles perfectly at 800-900 rpm. I found that is was a two part issue. The reason I dug into the throttle body in the first place was because although it was running ok, when I would come off the throttle it would hang at 2000 rpms then eventually come back down to idle. It was progressively hanging longer and longer. That is why I thought dirt in the throttle body may be the culprit. After cleaning the throttle body, the IAC, and the TPS it barely idled and sputtered. So, I took the IAC apart and reassembled. Then all of a sudden the idle shot up and idled at 4000 rpm. I figured I really did only harm to the IAC, but it was worth a try to save $50. So, 5 days later a new IAC arrived from China. I installed and at first is sounded good then shot up to 4000 rpm again!! I took a peak into the intake manifold with a flashlight and a mirror and realized I could see daylight. I believe when I was investigating a coolant leak I saw while I was removing my throttle body I accidentally tore off the cheap Chinese rubber cap on the front of the intake manifold with the back of my hand or arm. I plugged it and now it idles perfectly and doesn't hang at 2000 rpms after getting on the throttle.

I will post the IAC info in the parts, pieces, and info section.