Radiator Fan

[clankford]

I changed out my fuse box behind the drivers seat and the relay sockets. Everything was working fine, Then one day the electric fan on the radiator just stays on. I turn the key to the on position, fuel pumps and fan run for a few seconds then kick off. When I start the engine the electric fan runs as long as the engine is running. I ordered a new temp sensor for the radiator, installed, no change. Fan is fused, fuse does not blow, relay gets pretty warm to the touch. Does anyone have any ideas. Obviously electrical is not my strong suit. Thanks

Oh, if it matters I have turbo, dual fuel pumps.

[Kinarfi]

That's the way it's supposed to work, fuel pumps pressurize the system and the fan runs while the pumps run, that's the way it's wired, then you start the motor and the pumps run continuously to supply fuel and the pump relay powers up the fan relay and the fan runs continuously, that's the way it wired.

If you don't have a manual, download one, link is in parts & pieces pinned thread.

Kinarfi

[trackguy22]

Mine is a 2012 and the fan never runs until it gets to a certain temp. I have a manual switch if I want it to run as cool as the thermostat temp.

[Kinarfi]

mine is an 08, they must have made some improvements, wonder if they changed the ECU, the down loadable PDF at the bottom of parts and pieces shows a high and low speed for the fan

[clankford]

Good morning fellas,

My fan is either on or off. I noticed before I turbo'ed it, I would hear the fan kick on and off once in a while. Then after the turbo, additional fuel pump, and raised the fuel psi, I noticed that the fan never kicks off, I thought I was crazy. But the fact that the fan is suposed to run with the fuel pumps lets me know that I'm not. I am also running 60psi with the turbo and dual pumps.

Just wanted to find out. I am in Mississippi, lots of mud. I changed to a weather tight fuse box, but I get mud slung all over the fuse box, wiring, and computer. So I made a box from an old peice of stainless I had that hangs off of the cage. Last night I went for a drive then checked it and noticed a little more heat underneath than I am comfortable with. So I'm scrapping the box. Had planned on making some doors soon, so I think I'm gonna change the cage right there a little to incorporate a side panel to catch the mud but still keep the wiring open to dissipate the heat. When I say heat, I can still hold on to the relays and wiring barehanded, but the way I see it, the less heat the better. I've included some pics of the bare wiring, the heat catching stainless box, and the mud slinging tires. Even at idle I get huge clods thrown on me, which is fine until it knocks a fresh beer out of my hand, and I can't be having that.

Thanks guys, and throw any recommendations at me, always open for suggestions. Tried to post some pice, can't do it from my phone.

[clankford]

Pics of my bad idea. Gonna make some doors instead.

[trackguy22]

I don't think I would be too worried about a little heat. Just think of some cars with the fuse box under the hood. On a hot they probably see 200 plus degrees.

[Kinarfi]

I like the box, especially if it's keeping crud off the ECU and relays and fuses.

I did away with all my relays, replaced them with 57amp P FETs, takes up less space, soldered connection, but I had to redo all the switched to supply a ground to turn them on,

http://www.utvboard.com/gallery/image/1015-fuse-blocks/

[Tinman]

My fan's always on. Stock fan was drawing too many amps - kept blowing my 15amp fuse. Went aftermarket, and am on my second 3000cu fan. Bring a new spare fan with me just n case, together with my spare fuel pump, spare wheel bearing, spare ...

[clankford]

I've been running a 30 amp fuse with the fan and dual fuel pumps, no problems. I had changed out the fuse box and thought I had wired something up wrong is why I originally posted, but after a lot of riding, no problems with the bigger fuse, still stock fan.

My stock fuel pumps gave me some intermittent problems a while back, nothing that left me stranded, but...I saw on here where someone had used an E2000 pump from the parts store. Its an Airtex, very easy to get at any store, and it has a lifetime guarantee. I put a dual pump setup on mine with a fuel pressure regulator designed for turbo/supercharged applications from Summit racing, and also changed the spark plug wires to 8.5mm wires instead of the stock 7mm's. Made a huge difference in throttle response and power. I've also changed out the wheel bearings with tapered bearings and have had great luck with those.

[MauyThai1]

Clankford could you give me the info on your fuel pressure reg and what spark plug wires you used. my t2 has never run correctly with the turbo, it wants to over heat and the engine kicks into limp mode at full throttle in 4,5th gears.I have changed most of the sensors but with out the computer scanner no one can figure out the issue. Thanks Robert.

[clankford]

The fuel pressure regulator from Summit Racing, part number MAA-4304MM, the gauge I bought with it was part number SUM-800199. Plug wires were from ebay, Vulcan Extreme 8.5 mm Silicone Universal Race Straight Spark plug Wire Set 8 Cylinder (371047389490), I also put a bigger breather can on it from ebay (360733785808). I run a Fail Safe thermostat from Autozone, part # 7240-192. Something else that helped for the heating issue was I replaced the plastic plate in the bed of the buggy with a peice of expanded metal then added another cooler with electric fan from summit racing (MIO-MMOC-F) and 3/8" hose, this coolers inlet comes from the thermostat bypass on the head, goes to the cooler then to the turbo bearing, from the turbo it goes into the "T" in the cooling system, I replaced the stock "T" with a bigger one I made with fittings from the hardware store because the stock one had a 1/8"-1/4" inlet. This added cooler is piped in with 3/8" hoses, I essentially have 2 radiators. I did this for 2 reasons, one to cool the turbo bearing with oil and water and also to add some capacity to the cooling system, its not a lot but every little bit helps.

In the past I had had some problems of running out of fuel at high RPM, I had Nick from Blox (510)440-1605, rebuild my vacuum operated Fuel Management Unit, that fixed my Fuel problem. Not sure what type your running but mine is a 12:1 ratio. Hope this helps, holler at me if you need anything or if I can help in anyway. Good luck!

[MauyThai1]

Sorry I'M so late in replying, I got the pressure gauge and regulator you recommended as well as a new rad from summit. The rad is 27 inches wide and 15 1/8 tall so with some very minor fab work it dropped right in. The rad uses two 14 inch fans. Thanks to your info and the new rad my T2 stays cool now.

[Kinarfi]

I don't know if you saw what I did to my 2015 when I posted it, but the newer units have a temperature switch that turns the fan on when hot and off when it cools down some, so I put a resistor across the contacts of the switch to keep the fan running continually, but at a slower speed. It goes to full speed when the temperature gets hot enough.

See photos, http://www.utvboard.com/gallery/image/1087-img-20151101-112005/

[clankford]

Do you have a part number of the radiator you found and used?

[Kinarfi]

That's the stock radiator on my 2015 and that's how they mounted it, all I did was mount the resistor to keep it turning when the water's not hot enough to turn the fan on.

I had to add some extra circuitry to make the fan run only when the key is on.

Jeff