Quantcast
Jump to content

Davidss

Mule 3010 no Spark Rear Cylinder

Recommended Posts

No spark on rear cylinder. Will spark and run on front clyinder. So far new coil on rear cylinder and new igniter. Pulled flywheel to inspect but pulse coil is fine. Can't see any broken wires. Pulled all connections and inspected no bad connections. Maybe a wire broken somewhere internally I don't know but pulling my hair out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Lenny
      I'm not trying to trample flatbeds post about the front ball joints being able to pull out. I just couldn't find his post to reply there. Sorry flatbed. Flatbed found that the bolts holding the ball joints in place weren't close enough to the ball joint stem to fit into it's groove, thus the ball joint could work it's way out. This happened to flatbed and Kinarfi. It could be very dangerous if this happened at the wrong time. I finally got around to checking mine today. The top of the ball joint on the front left had already pulled out 1/8". The bottom one was still ok. I did as flatbed sujested and drilled them out and refitted them with new bolts. Both joints on the right side did not need any work as they were secured ok by the original bolts. To reiterate what flatbed said, be sure to address this potential failure. Just redo them and don't wait for signs of them pulling out.
      Lenny
    • By Kinarfi
      My right rear wheel bearing has gone bad and made lots of horrid noises before I got it into the garage, I'm trying to break the 36mm nut so I can get at everything, but so far, all I have broken is my 1/2" breaker bar, I guess 6' of extension pipe was a bit too much - busted the 1/2" square piece, banged my wife's shin and bent a lug bolt that I'll have to replace. Called a friend and he came over with his 3/4" drive set and broke the nut loose while I stood on the brakes with 4 X 4 and lockers. Any advanced advice for what I'm going to find, I'm done with it for the day and going to go play with the grand kids.
      Kinarfi
    • By TmJoyner
      New to the Joyner community.  Bought a used 2016 1100 sand viper in descent shape. Only 155 miles.   Runs great.  It just rattles quite a bit in the front when riding on rough gravel / hard-packed dirt roads outside St Johns.  Removed front wheels and seems to be coming from both upper and lower suspension arm bushings/radial bearings (see pic); both left and right.  Seems like some play inside the eyelets - as I shake the arms a bit.  I assume it's not supposed be loose in there like that and the bushing/bearings are worn.  Anyone have had this issue and how did you go about changing them?
       

    • By NewCadetOwner
      Just wanted to pass along my little project after not finding any ready made accessories for adding a rear winch.  I always say a front winch is to get others out of trouble.  A rear winch is to get me out of trouble.   I had my local steel shop bend up a rear bracket and integrated it into the rear frame of the machine.  I extended the rear hitch and utilized the existing rear pin with the new bracket.   The bracket bolts to existing holes on each side of frame and is super strong.  I bought a 3500lb winch from Harbor Freight that matches the OEM front winch in all respects except the labels.   I added a second corded remote to the dash and extended the power leads to reach the rear with the control box mounted with the front one.  Total project cost was $225.


×
×
  • Create New...