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By M C
Hey guys just bought a 07 trooper. Previous owner stated it ran great etc prior to clutch job then had issues. I drained tank, replaced plugs etc. found one of the injectors connectors was not connected and plugged it in. Solid 50psi fuel pressure. It starts easier than previously on 3 cylinders but still runs very very poorly. I’m thinking the sound I’m hearing is it detonating at around 3k. It kinda sputters and falls apart. Sounds like clicking or something when it happens. I am at a bit of a loss, compression is a solid 150psi across the board with no movement. Verified spark and now am assuming all injector are functioning more or less correct as if I unplug any one it sound terrible at idle.
A note, I tapped plugs at .7 manual called for .9-1.1 but that seems super over doing it but I will try adjusting them to 1.0
additionally I’ve noticed the fan in rear doesn’t turn on.
anyone with any help I will be in your debt.
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By Jim Sabin
I have a 2012 MSU 500 that recently was having an issue with the motor not starting, I ended up reworking the ground wire at the fuel pump leads and now I have notice that when I switch to 4Wheel drive, it does not work. Any ideals what going on?
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By Bret4207
Hi, I have a 2019 Coleman Outfitter 550, purchased from Tractor Supply. I'm told this is a Hisun Sector 550? Is this correct? I've just gotten mine back from a 5 month visit to the warranty shop for a no start condition. After numerous emails with Coleman and calls to the shop, I finally picked it up Saturday before last. It ran, but ran rough. I was assured by the shop owner, who obviously wanted it out of his yard, that "It'll smooth out as you use it." He tells me it had a bad fuse and dirty fuel. I believe he has replaced 3 or 4 injectors on this and we did add an inline fuel filter. We got about 45 minutes of easy run time on it. I'm 60, use it on the farm and don't race it. Now I can barely get it to start. I changed the plug for a brand new NGK same as was in it- no change. In fact when I checked it I found it fairly well fouled and not arcing across the tip, but off the side of the center of the plug to inner plug wall of the threaded portion. The old plug sparked at the gap correctly and it will run. It spits and sputters and won't idle. Acts like a dirty injector to me and I've contacted Coleman again, but I'm looking at probably a 75 mile trip to get it to a better shop. I've read of people cleaning the injectors, but don't know if it's effective. I have good fuel flow from the pump and no water in the gas, which is 91 non-ethanol. I can't understand why the injector would get dirty unless the interior of the factory fuel line is deteriorating at this point. 4 grand is about the max RPM it will turn at this point. It's either fuel or an ignition issue I'd say, and I'm thinking fuel.
I've got 45 years of small engine, 2 and 4 cycle, and all sorts of farm/auto engine experience under my belt, but this computer controlled, gas injection stuff is outside my comfort zone. I got this into the warranty place a couple weeks shy of the 1 year warranty expiring 5 months back and don't have much faith in Coleman/Hisun taking much more action. So, where would you all start looking if you were me? New Ebay injector to start or what? I've read you reset the ignition control by holding the gas at max for 3 seconds and shutting the machine off with your foot to the floor. I have a Sector 550 shop manual CD but I'm not seeing that or much else yet. Doesn't matter since it won't wind up that high anyway. ?????
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By Heath Herring
I have a 2014 4010 trans 4x4 (KAF620REF). Are the rear left and right driveshaft assemblies the same part number? I ordered the two sections individually for the rear right & they are coming up too short in length. Possibly the wrong parts ordered by the dealer? Thanks in advance.
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By DirtGrl
Hey guys! My throttle cable broke in its housing. Can anyone tell me what aftermarket cable would work for a 1100 renegade Joyner?
TIA
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By Dan B
I'm in need of a brake master cylinder for my ride. Appears to be leaking between the reservoir and the cylinder (picture). Is there a seal that I can replace inexpensively without buy a whole master cylinder assembly? Can't tell if the master cylinder is the same as used on the Trooper because I don't have a Trooper parts manual. I don't know if the master cylinder is different when they went to the 1100cc engine. Has anyone had experience with master cylinder make for the Kinrod Joyner line of rides (I believe it's a German company)? They are available on Amazon but the configuration isn't the same as OEM.
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By Kelly Stump
Just put new rings in my joyner trooper 1100 and it still smokes. I dont know what else to do. Can some one tell me why?
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By Dan B
The brake pads on my Renegade seem to be quite thin, less than 1800 miles. Does anyone know what the thickness of new brake pad friction material is. It will give me an idea as to how much brake pad life I might have left. A supplier or suitable substitues would also be helpful in case I need to get new ones. Thanks in advance.
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By Joey Miller
Hey I finally found a joyner I could afford lol I just bought a 2008 joyner sand viper 800cc I like it but it needs work that's not the issue me being a mechanic issue is I can't seem to find the parts I need like everything else I've worked on I'm not even sure what would work so I need advice from some one who has been there for now the things I need the most are rear shocks , I need the upper and lower ball joints or Johnny joints whatever they are called and I'm sure this had a fuel pressure regulator before now it just has some random inline pump no filter runs good for 15 mins or so then runs pretty crappy but if I let it sit a bit same thing I know it's going out but I need to know what I can do to sub for the factory pump and what psi requirement it has that's it for now any help would be appreciated
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By TmJoyner
New to the Joyner community. Bought a used 2016 1100 sand viper in descent shape. Only 155 miles. Runs great. It just rattles quite a bit in the front when riding on rough gravel / hard-packed dirt roads outside St Johns. Removed front wheels and seems to be coming from both upper and lower suspension arm bushings/radial bearings (see pic); both left and right. Seems like some play inside the eyelets - as I shake the arms a bit. I assume it's not supposed be loose in there like that and the bushing/bearings are worn. Anyone have had this issue and how did you go about changing them?
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