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By rdc
I posted this before , but I had the year wrong. The part I need is for a 2014, I don't know what all years will work, but I need the 2 bearing style with the spacer in the middle. It looks like this pic. If anyone has one I'll buy it rite away. my email is [email protected]. Thanks, RC
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By rdc
Hope I posted this in the right place. Looking for the left side shaft carrier where the rear bearings go for an 1100cc sand viper, I understand an 800 cc carrier will also work. I need the old style two bearing with the spacer in the middle, the new style with just the one wide bearing wont work. If anybody has one I'll buy it right away. my email is [email protected]
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By Outlaw Redneck
Hello all. I have a 2005 Joyner sand spider 650 with the dreaded broken output shaft on the transmission. I got ahold of a 2007 joyner commando 650 for cheap that had a bad motor but a good transmission. I got it because everything i read said that the transmission would work but it seems that it will not. Due to the commando being 4x4 it has a selectable locker and a small ring gear using a "idler" gear to turn the ring gear which make the output spin the wrong direction. Is there any way that I can make this thing work? I really dont want a commando, I like the buggy but if the trans wont work then I can only put my motor in the commando. Any help would be appreciated. I have the ring gear from the original trans but the shaft is broken and the shaft from the commando wont fit the ring gear it doesn't appear.
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By Alien10
My 2021 Coleman Outfitter 550 has a rear hitch receiver. It works OK for my towing of junk around the property BUT it is NOT welded directly to the frame of the SxS. Instead it fits into a sloppy tube and is pinned in there by a 5/8" hitch pin. This allows the receiver itself to wobble around to a small degree which can be annoying in some circumstances especially if towing and backing a trailer, it can droop or sway side to side by an inch or two at the ball. . I cannot figure out why they set up the hitch in this way, and am considering welding the tube directly to the frame as found in most hitch arrangements.
Has anyone else found this annoying and welded the tube up to the frame? If so, where there any down side to doing so? (Broken frame etc. ??)
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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