Hey guys, just to give you a bit of back story here first. I used to ride big mud machines and SxS in the swamp. Went through a divorce and lost almost everything. What I got to keep was a snowmobile that I had for years and never rode anymore and wasn’t worth much to me so I decided to try trading it for more or less any UTV/SxS I could. Well that landed me here, I just traded it for a 2008 Kandi KD650 which is a direct clone of the Joyner Commando 650. The machine is in rough shape but runs and drives. I have a few things to repair on it. (Seized choke cable, seized Ignition, and needs a voltage regulator). Going to to princess auto today to pick up a choke cable, and ignition, I have a voltage regulator from an old project that I will wire in.
The only thing I am wondering about is the rear end. The guy I traded it for told me only one rear tire will spin when in 2 wd. Is that the way all of these are is do I need to rip it apart. Also is there any aftermarket support for rear axles or axles that will fit that can be cut down and sleeved and rewelded. Buddy there did some rednecking with a Polaris axle but not sure how strong it is.
New to the forum so luckily there is some help out there lol. Recently bought a 2008 Joyner 1600cc sand viper and loving it. Took it out and had a little accident with a tree stump lol. The stump hit directly on my passenger side tie rod end and broke the heim joint that connects the tie rod end to the wheel. Does anyone know the size of the adjustable heim joint so I can order one? I am having a hard time sourcing one quickly. I am also guessing since it is an outter tie rod end, that it is LH pitched rather than RH? thanks for any help anyone can provide. This is again for the outter tie rod end heim joint that snapped. Thanks
By Dan B
Disclaimer: My spell checker thinks it knows more of what words I want to use than I do. Typos are not my fault.
This is a general comment on the support I received from Joyner-USA in Phoenix, AZ. I needed one headlight assembly for my Renegade because the mounting pin was broken. Duct tape and bailing wire held it in place for a few years. To my surprise, they had them IN STOCK. I bought two and kept one of my good old ones as a backup. They completed their move to a new address at 2415 S 18th Pl, Phoenix AZ from their former Riverside location. As a gift, Jake gave me two T-shirts. He said he as most of the parts for my 2014 Joyner Renegade. I looked at his yard and he has several engines and UTVs in stock, mostly the 1100cc engines and several Renegades. Maybe a Trooper or two was buried in there somewhere. Everything was crated and outdoors. I hope he moves his inventory indoors, out of the weather. Their website says their hours are 9:00AM - 5:00PM but their actual hours are 10:00AM - 5:00PM. I arrived at about 9:20AM and no one was there; place locked up. I was a little upset that with a 9:00AM opening, someone should have been there. I was concerned that I made a 70 mile round trip for nothing. Fortunately, one of his employees showed up and told me of their later hours. So, everything turned out fine. I got the parts I needed and two T-shirts. This is based upon a one time, 1st time experience. I hope future vists are just as good.
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I need to replace my rear reducer, and talked to Joyner-USA who indicated that I can only replace the rear reducer with an identical one. I would like to eliminate the permanently locked characteristic of the Commando and go to a locking/inlocking differential as is used on other models. I tore the original one up because I have to follow paved drive to get unit out of my garage-storage area. It was just too much for the machine as well as leaving a lot of rubber behind in the process.
Has anybody looked into this? Thanks.
I have owned a 2008 Commando for a little over a year. It is relatively low milage for its age as it was stored for most of those years. In any case I have managed to tear up the rear reducer. I have several question for any one with experience:
1 It appears that the reducer can be separated from the drive shaft by removing cotter key and pin?
2 Are the half axles removed by snatching with a slap hammer? Any easy way to to get them out?
3 Once all that is done, will the reducer clear the various cross members to get it out of the frame.
4 I see a lot of references to "Lenny" in reference to upgrade kits. Can someone give me a link to "Lenny" and do any of his kits fit the Commando?
5 Has anyone developed a description of the reducer teardown and rebuild or a YouTube of same.
Any info is greatly appreciated and thanks!
I'm new on this forum, so please forgive me if there's been a thread on this subject before. I did do a search and have found refs to other threads, but haven't found a reply to this issue.
First off: Crappy brakes. Noticed that the pads ony contact about two thirds of the actual disc width area, and what's with the two caliper deal on the back wheel??? Anyone found a caliper replacement, perhaps from a motorcycle or small car that might fit and give the brakes some extra bite?
Winch issue: Doesn't work. Traced the power to the octastyle relay above the battery, which is fused. A new one is on the way from Joyner-usa.com ([email protected], contact bryan). Is there anything else I should change or be worried about winch-wise?
We´re volunteers and use this in central america to reach communities that can only be reached on horseback or rugged vehicle, so we need a reliable winch.
Thanks for all your help!