Machine sat and had multiple rodent chews thru out the wiring that we fixed. Also replaced the Following: ECU, Coil and Plug Wire, small Control Box that contains fuses and relays. Pick Up coil test at 219 ohms which is typically good on most machines but i can't find the specific manual on this thing to get the spec. Battery good, cranks fine but the fuel pump doesn't prime or run and no spark. Tested pump with direct 12volts and it works. If we supply a ground to the pump it primes and works but still no spark. We have traced all wiring including grounding and all is good. Tested key switch. I has (4) positions. 1 - off, 2 - does nothing, 3 - powers up everything (lighting and odometer and powers ECU, 4 - starts engine. The key switch only has 3 wires. 12v in from battery and 2 - 12v out which is power to the system and send 12v to starter relay coil.
Are these electrical systems actually switching the grounds on and off vs the traditional switching the 12v+ on and off.
at my wits end with this thing.
Also when we figure this problem out we will post the solution. seems 90% of people that ask for help on these forums, never post the fix which make this pointless.
By erk mann
Bike was flooded in tropical storm. Replaced ecu and coil. Motor turns over but no spark have 12volts on one wire of coil. How much voltage should be on other small wire? Crank position sensor is about 200ohms. . Cleaned plug with sandpaper. Want a wiring diagram to check voltage at ecu. I have update. The blue wire going to coil has no voltage when turning it over. The white with black stripe has 12vdc when key is turned to on position.also, how do I clean the connectors on ecu? I dont see how I can get a screwdriver in there to release them. Found a schematic.i still need to clean connectors though
Purchased it used a week ago. Found that it wont start from key but will start if solenoid jumped. Also noticed that brake lights don't work checked switch and its working, may be the no start problem from key.
Turn signals and hazards do not work headlights tail lights and hi beams all work.
have a manual but it is hard to decipher.
Hoping that someone has run into these issues and can point me in the right direction with the lights. I believe if i can get brake lights to work it may solve starting from key issue.
I had mentioned in a previous post that I had removed the front anti-roll bar from my 2020 Outfitter 400; I ran that way for a month or so without noticing any downside however recently I installed a 'suicide knob" (see below) to assist my Parkinson's disease affected arms in turning the beast--but after doing so i found that in the quicker, tighter turns the knob permitted the vehicle would nosedive a bit, dig in, and plow on hard surfaces--not scary, but quite noticeably.
So I put the bar back on. Then today I got about 1-1/2 miles down the main road on the nearby power lines, turned around and came home to take it off--with the bar on, at 25 to 30 MPH, the front-end of the beast jumped like rabbit at each bump in either wheel rut., for a nearly brutal and quite uncomfortable ride. the bar (20 mm solid steel) is far too robust for the weight of the vehicle. The front bar on my 3900 lb. Infinity M37 is 30 mm...
suicide knob--for you younger folks:
We have a new Mule Pro FX LE EPS. It has the manual dump bed and looking to add some type of electric lift to it. Even with a small load, two people can't dump it by hand. Seems kind of a bad design, hinge point and the hydraulic strut assist is too far towards the back. Been looking at electric actuators on ebay. For those that have done this, do you put the actuator in place of the strut? How does it work? To me, I would think even with a 400lb actuator, it might struggle since it would be so far back. Thinking of putting it towards the front more. But not sure of the best place to mount it. And would I need a super long stroke to get it to raise the bed all the way?