I had mentioned in a previous post that I had removed the front anti-roll bar from my 2020 Outfitter 400; I ran that way for a month or so without noticing any downside however recently I installed a 'suicide knob" (see below) to assist my Parkinson's disease affected arms in turning the beast--but after doing so i found that in the quicker, tighter turns the knob permitted the vehicle would nosedive a bit, dig in, and plow on hard surfaces--not scary, but quite noticeably.
So I put the bar back on. Then today I got about 1-1/2 miles down the main road on the nearby power lines, turned around and came home to take it off--with the bar on, at 25 to 30 MPH, the front-end of the beast jumped like rabbit at each bump in either wheel rut., for a nearly brutal and quite uncomfortable ride. the bar (20 mm solid steel) is far too robust for the weight of the vehicle. The front bar on my 3900 lb. Infinity M37 is 30 mm...
suicide knob--for you younger folks:
By Dan B
I'm in need of a brake master cylinder for my ride. Appears to be leaking between the reservoir and the cylinder (picture). Is there a seal that I can replace inexpensively without buy a whole master cylinder assembly? Can't tell if the master cylinder is the same as used on the Trooper because I don't have a Trooper parts manual. I don't know if the master cylinder is different when they went to the 1100cc engine. Has anyone had experience with master cylinder make for the Kinrod Joyner line of rides (I believe it's a German company)? They are available on Amazon but the configuration isn't the same as OEM.
Anyone who want JOYNER CV Joints. or CV AXLE please send email to [email protected] before NEXT MONDAY ( JAN-18 Chinese TIME)
I will collect demand before this time and confirm to who send email whether I can arrange production.
P.S. Also welcome checking availability of any other Joyner parts, 800 CC and 1100 CC Chery engine parts ( these does not has time limitation)
Casey / Leaf Asia
Hi, all, I am here to say i have found an excellent source for kawasaki parts, It's run by Eddie Babbit. It is called Kawasaki Partshouse. run by Babbits online, Muskegon Michigan. http://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemparts
Just the other day i ordered piston rings, for my Mule 550, They got here and a Oil ring, and smaller ring were missing from the box, Kawasaki took responsibility for the "Accident" and I had also contacted babbits, and they replied and they said" keep the old rings, order a new set and you just pay shipping" so i got $30 piston rings for 8.95!!!? Free shipping on orders over $50!!!
I recently acquired a new 2020 Coleman Outfitter 400 and overall am quite pleased with it. I had the "too be expected" loose bolts (first thing I checked), all related to the final assembly conducted by the pimple-faced kid "mechanic" at Tractor Supply.--the bolts in the upper driver's side roll bar joint were just hand tight, as were those of the upper seat belt anchors--but other than that it had been pretty well assembled.
The included owner's manual is not current; it speaks of using the choke to cold-start the motor (it's EFI, no choke), and shows the ignition and lighting switches as dash-mounted when in fact they are on the steering column. It also direct you to remove the seat to change the spark plug--except that on this revision the cylinder tilts rearward and the cylinder head in found beneath the dump bed. Other maintenance tasks are similarly ill-described and it is generally useless.
I did find the exhaust note to be a bit strident and devised the following to tone it down a bit. I used one of those inexpensive 1" NPT female inlet B&S "muffin" mufflers that have been around for decades, and a steel 1" EMT to steel box adapters that have been available for a like time:
1" EMT has an outside diameter of 29.5 mm, the tailpipe extension on the beast is 28 mm O.D.--so I use a partially overlapped cylindrical shim spacer of 28 ga. (0.47 mm) galvanized sheet metal to fit the EMT adapter to the tailpipe . Bedded well in muffler putty the single set screw on the adapter mounted it up quite firmly.On my first ride I found the motor to feel and sound a bit constipated--so i drilled out the 106 1/8" holes in the faced of the muffin to 9/64". This is a 26.5% increase in area [(9/64)^2 / (1/8)^2 = 1.2656]
That made the difference needed to restore proper flow without making it too loud again:It
is arguably not a pretty as some of the $100+ aftermarket alternative, but at $15 for the muffler and adapter it better fits my budget.Make sure you get the genuine B&S part (# 392989) as the 3rd party clones lack an inner baffle that makes them inherently louder than the B&S piece.
FWIW--I also removed the front anti-roll bar--and have found little to no adverse effect on handling (and arguably some positive effect)--it also got rid of an annoying rattle from the low-quality driver's side roll bar tie-rod end. Put in an iridium spark plug too...