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CVT pulley removal help


DJ530

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Could you post a picture please?

Usually pulleys are keyed on, similar to a flywheel on a small engine.

Sometimes the key can rust to the pulley, try heating it up red hot, and quench it with a garden hose, that turns the rust to powder, and beat it off with a 3 pound hammer.

If not , soak it in Diesel, or Evapo-rust. Or even spray it with PB blaster.

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Thanks Travis,  here is what im working on,  I believe it is a CVTech unit.  I soaked it good with some PB blaster.    Will see what I can do,  I don't want to damage it coming off.  Do I need to remove the large nut to remove it? I pulled a bolt out before taking these pics. Engine will be out tomorrow, gotta dig my hoist out in the back of the shop. 

 

Thanks again.

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The engine manual matches mine,  very useful information,  thanks for the link.

Here is one I found for the CVTech drive:  https://americanlandmaster.com/pdfs/UTV/Service/CV Tech Cleaning Procedure (2-20662 & 2-20660).pdf

They have the tool, it's a bit spendy, hopefully I won't need it.  http://usa.cvtech-aab.com/176-extracteur.html

 

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Update:   it came off fine,  just a few taps with the rubber mallet.  Once that was out of my way, I was able to assess the carnage, pretty bad, was not a rod issue as described after all, looks like the screws that hold the air filter housing on rattled into the engine and banged up both chambers, and pistons.  Both intake valves had closed on 2 of the screws, other chunks of piston.   Not all bad as the case is fine, save for some light scoring that should clean up in one cylinder.   The crank, and both rods seem fine, I need to check the intake valves again,  both seem like they may be usable, not sure yet.   The heads took the brunt of the damage and will cost the most.  Pricey parts.  Will see if I can get them tig welded and repair the chamber surface as they are pretty bad.  
 

Some more pics

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Ooh! Them heads are beat up!

I noticed in the 4th picture, the head on the right,by the exhaust valve on the bottom next to the seat looks like a vertical crack... Is it?

the cylinder looks good from what I can tell, except a few score lines, if possible take it to a machine shop and have them mic both, and hone them,

shouldn't cost more than $50., And measure the crank journals, although they look excellent, it's cheap insurance from all your work blowing up.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10152-Assembly-Lube/dp/B000WJ3M6I/ref=asc_df_B000WJ3M6I/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adposition}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583932699391023&psc=1

Lucas oil assembly lube, good stuff, coat all the cam and crank the,crankpin and valve springs.

look forward to seeing your work!!

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Yeah I guess you could say these heads are 'screwed' lol    No cracks I can see, just a bunch of pock marks from steel chunks beating the pistons and heads. To go with all new parts (heads/pistons) just the parts will be over $500 bucks, so I will try and scrounge some used head cores. I can't even remove one of the plugs it's beat so bad!  It's going to take a TON of work to get these decent again. To weld them I need to heat them up pretty hot and may do more damage. 

I may just cut my losses and go with a new engine,  this lump seems to be the red headed step child of industrial v-twin engines, not much to find on it.  Will see if I can find a used vanguard engine, or pop for something better.  Not sure if there is any demand but I can sell off the good parts of this Subaru engine.  Will update when I get something going together.  For now I'm just learning what options I have for replacement engines. 

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So many choices!  I did some searches, apparently not many people swap engines in these farm/utility rigs.  Golf/club carts ,and go karts,  but not these.   

Another question CVT related, has anyone figured out, or rough idea how much torque the CVTech CVT drive belt can handle?  I tried finding info, but im not sure what model this unit is.  It looks pretty stout and very little wear in fact.   Just wondering how much power I can put to it.

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Current belt is is CVTech JM52-1253-C   I guess its not so much power limitation as much as heat control.  Gates has their carbon belts that work pretty good in the RZR rigs, so I should be fine.  This one is just old,  not much wear in 330 hours. May pop for a new belt to go with the motor.  Apparently a pretty efficient drive setup. 

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