Quantcast
Jump to content

Temp Sensor Resistance Cold HS800 EFI (2014)


etimc

Recommended Posts

I suspect I have a faulty temp sensor but at the cost of the sensor plus 50 percent tariff plus the shipping cost to Costa Rica, i would like to confirm it - the Hisun 800 has 2 sensors - one in the radiator appears to be a fully open or fully closed bi-metal contact switch similar to the old household thermostats for your heating system. - My fans turn on and off automatically as they should and a jumper across the connector also triggers the fan - appears to be a simple logic circuit back to the computer that then trips a relay for the fans.  The second sensor is on the back cylinder almost hidden by the throttle body and idle control system - I have unplugged it, sprayed it with contact cleaner, checked the pins, tried to get a resistance reading across the sensor, reconnected it and still get a blinking red light on the display panel warning of high temperature - this occurs even when the buggy is still cold having just started it in the morning - I have not been able to trace out the other end of the cable on the display panel since it appears i will have to remove the entire front plastic to get to it - hoping i could confirm the resistance before i go to that step (this is the same buggy originally posted by Jim Magnuson last September when the spark arrestor overheated and burned the plastic pickup bed - I fixed that by removing and cleaning the spark arrestor and it has never glowed red again.  I would really like to put a guage in place of the digital idiot light since (from experience in automobiles) by the time the idiot light goes on you have already damaged the engine - Which brings the second question - would it be advisable to swap the front radiator sensor for a real sensor and then jumper the fans to always on condition at the connector so the computer contentedly thinks everything is working and it is doing its job ?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

More reading and research and I guess it appears that both sensors are full make/break contact switches and a third sensor in the MAF/MAP/Temp sensor is the one that is variable resistance - sooo - if my dash light is always on for overheat condition, then i guess i need to follow the wire and find where it might be grounding out.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By moonrover
      Mine is overheated/burned/melt at connection with its wire connector, parts are ordered to replace both them.  This seems to be a common issue, and some of you already replaced it. I right now just connect the wires, so the fan runs  all the time whenever the initiation is on, but it's better let fan runs as needed with a working temperature sensor/switch. 
      Question: Does some coolant come out by removing the switch/sensor from radiator?  Or, is the threaded hole all the way inside radiator?   If the answer is yes,  I want to drain or extract  some coolant to make its level below the sensor before replacing it, so I don't make a mess with coolant spilled out 
      Thank you.  
    • By Hugh
      My 2018 Hisun sector crew engine cut off after about 15 minutes run. There is no indicator of what is wrong, no error code just die and won't restart until it cool down. I notice that the fan is not running but the temp indicator is on low temp, no overheat indicator. I checked the radiator fluid, it is cool to touch.
      Cooling fans are working, I can hear it running once awhile if I can get the engine warm up enough.  Thank you for all the help.
       
      Hugh
    • By Hi sun 500
      hello everyone, i just joined this forum to try my luck, few days ago i bought an old (dont know exactly), 2011/14 hi sun 500cc ""carburated"",  was not running at the time, but i fell was a good deal and decided it to bring it home to play with it, this is the issue, i bought and installed a new carb, and pump, i repositioned the battery location and upgraded to a "car batt", reconnected the fuel lines and started it, but it only runs with the choke ON, i checked the bowl, it does have fuel,but for some reason wont inject it to run, i came across a video that say that ""the body small tank had to be connected for the cart to run" (was deleted when bought), sure enough i got it to run sporadically , but the so called ""small body tank'' often runs out of fuel and wont refill itself , i had to couple times do it manually, so how does that small tank works ?..what does it do?..and why if  bypass it , the cart wont start?....any help?..thanks so much!!!
    • By aefron88
      View File Hisun HS400/Coleman UT400 Parts Diagrams
      Compiled document with parts diagrams for Hisun HS400/Coleman UT400 for help in repairs where the service manual diagrams are poor or non existent.
      Submitter aefron88 Submitted 04/15/2024 Category Hisun  
    • By Nypto
      I just bought a new Hisun 750 sxs. I drove one mile and it just died. No power at all. Battery is 12.8v. Found no blown fuses. No power to the panel, no nothing. Problem for me is I bought 160 acres near big bend. Trying to build a house. Got blown up in 'Nam . Can't walk much. Scared I'm way out and it fails again. I heard something  about a brake switch,  but I have no idea where it might be.
×
×
  • Create New...