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etimc

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About etimc

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  • Location Puntarenas Province, Jaco, Costa Rica

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  1. With wheels blocked, motor off but key on, use a volt meter and see if you actually have 12 volts at your splice - hot lead from meter on your splice other lead on a clean metal part of the frame - have a helper activate and deactivate the switch for the differential lock while you are watching the meter - if you have the correct voltage, look for a bad ground wire - if no voltage (and you are sure this is the hot wire to the differential solenoid) - undo your splice, make a jumper from the battery positive terminal and momentarily touch it to the hot wire on the side going to the differentia
  2. Mine looks the same - mods mine - the pump quit - checked for voltage at the connector you are showing and it was fine - almost ready to erroneously replace an expensive and perfectly good fuel pump until I happened to realize that I had hooked my meter to ground with an alligator clip and was only probing the hot side - I grounded the black wire to a frame bolt and pump came alive - your post tells me that my problem is not unique - "nothing new under the sun" lol
  3. If you recognize an RS-232 connector. You just gave away your age - lol - I have the same issue - I tried to find a reader also - I am not sure if you can buy one unless you are a dealer or an authorized service center - still ticked off and waiting for someone richer than me to sue John Deere - you own a 200,000 dollar tractor but not the 500 dollar ECU that runs everything on it - Detroit tried that for years until the government demanded a standard that every car sold in the USA had to follow - was OBD2, now CAN
  4. After thought - I do remember that I also replaced one of the 2 electric fan relays - check the relays and the temperature sensor on the back, bottom, left of the radiator -
  5. They notoriously run hot - search this forum for adapting bigger dual electric fans - my 800 does have thermostats (supposedly, I never took them off to see if they are installed - living in a tropical climate makes them needless) mine ran hot because some genius installed the license plate over the front grill for the radiator. I drilled my own holes and made a bracket to mount it hanging down below the bumper - it regularly gets folded off roading but I flatten it back straight enough to keep the tránsito from pulling me over - if you are certain that the pump is working - I would keep bu
  6. If I am not mistaken (and I spent a lot of hours reading) hisung was a Japanese owned Rhino (Yamaha?) factory - when the Japanese moved production, the factory renamed itself and kept right on building - after probably not a few lawsuits, they ended up re-engineering enough to not violate patent laws - they also invested a fortune in some high end, state of art robotics (geek alert - I spent a lot of years in engineering - robotics and automation, so I am impressed) - today they make a reasonable priced utv that is half decent quality - they ship raw parts to Texas and assemble them in severa
  7. etimc

    etimc

  8. More reading and research and I guess it appears that both sensors are full make/break contact switches and a third sensor in the MAF/MAP/Temp sensor is the one that is variable resistance - sooo - if my dash light is always on for overheat condition, then i guess i need to follow the wire and find where it might be grounding out.
  9. I suspect I have a faulty temp sensor but at the cost of the sensor plus 50 percent tariff plus the shipping cost to Costa Rica, i would like to confirm it - the Hisun 800 has 2 sensors - one in the radiator appears to be a fully open or fully closed bi-metal contact switch similar to the old household thermostats for your heating system. - My fans turn on and off automatically as they should and a jumper across the connector also triggers the fan - appears to be a simple logic circuit back to the computer that then trips a relay for the fans. The second sensor is on the back cylinder almost

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