Quantcast
Jump to content

etimc

Members
  • Content Count

    8
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About etimc

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Location Puntarenas Province, Jaco, Costa Rica

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. With wheels blocked, motor off but key on, use a volt meter and see if you actually have 12 volts at your splice - hot lead from meter on your splice other lead on a clean metal part of the frame - have a helper activate and deactivate the switch for the differential lock while you are watching the meter - if you have the correct voltage, look for a bad ground wire - if no voltage (and you are sure this is the hot wire to the differential solenoid) - undo your splice, make a jumper from the battery positive terminal and momentarily touch it to the hot wire on the side going to the differential - you should hear the solenoid click - if no click check the ground from solenoid again - last hope at that point is turn off the switch and connect an ohm meter to the hot wire and ground of the differential lock - an open - (no reading on the vom) means a wire broken beyond the splice, or no ground or a burned out solenoid on the differential lock - a 0.00 ohms reading means that you might have a shorted or burned coil inside of the solenoid - try reading at the lowest (smallest) ohms setting on the meter - manuals for your buggy are available in several places online - they tell you what ohm reading is allowed for many parts of the vehicle - search this forum for links to the service manual - did I mention to check the ground again - lol - that would be a subconscious accident of 40 plus years of experience (bad experiences - grin)
  2. Mine looks the same - mods mine - the pump quit - checked for voltage at the connector you are showing and it was fine - almost ready to erroneously replace an expensive and perfectly good fuel pump until I happened to realize that I had hooked my meter to ground with an alligator clip and was only probing the hot side - I grounded the black wire to a frame bolt and pump came alive - your post tells me that my problem is not unique - "nothing new under the sun" lol
  3. If you recognize an RS-232 connector. You just gave away your age - lol - I have the same issue - I tried to find a reader also - I am not sure if you can buy one unless you are a dealer or an authorized service center - still ticked off and waiting for someone richer than me to sue John Deere - you own a 200,000 dollar tractor but not the 500 dollar ECU that runs everything on it - Detroit tried that for years until the government demanded a standard that every car sold in the USA had to follow - was OBD2, now CAN
  4. After thought - I do remember that I also replaced one of the 2 electric fan relays - check the relays and the temperature sensor on the back, bottom, left of the radiator -
  5. They notoriously run hot - search this forum for adapting bigger dual electric fans - my 800 does have thermostats (supposedly, I never took them off to see if they are installed - living in a tropical climate makes them needless) mine ran hot because some genius installed the license plate over the front grill for the radiator. I drilled my own holes and made a bracket to mount it hanging down below the bumper - it regularly gets folded off roading but I flatten it back straight enough to keep the tránsito from pulling me over - if you are certain that the pump is working - I would keep burping it for air bubbles - had that problem with a little 3 cylinder Korean car for several months before I finally got it to purge completely - you may have to start it cold, with a hose in the radiator and just keep running the motor and burping the return hose until it gets too hot to hold on to and you can almost feel the circulating water pressure as you squeeze the hose.
  6. If I am not mistaken (and I spent a lot of hours reading) hisung was a Japanese owned Rhino (Yamaha?) factory - when the Japanese moved production, the factory renamed itself and kept right on building - after probably not a few lawsuits, they ended up re-engineering enough to not violate patent laws - they also invested a fortune in some high end, state of art robotics (geek alert - I spent a lot of years in engineering - robotics and automation, so I am impressed) - today they make a reasonable priced utv that is half decent quality - they ship raw parts to Texas and assemble them in several configurations and different brand names - under the plastic they are about like a camaro vs transam or mustang vs capri - I was surprised to find that I can get parts for mine here in Costa Rica - (not surprised to find out that he just orders them from US, marks them up and adds shipping costs - but he does stock some of the most common / popular parts so I don't have to wait or deal with the aduanas agents (customs) - good luck in your search - I love mine (most of the time - grin)
  7. etimc

    etimc

  8. More reading and research and I guess it appears that both sensors are full make/break contact switches and a third sensor in the MAF/MAP/Temp sensor is the one that is variable resistance - sooo - if my dash light is always on for overheat condition, then i guess i need to follow the wire and find where it might be grounding out.
  9. I suspect I have a faulty temp sensor but at the cost of the sensor plus 50 percent tariff plus the shipping cost to Costa Rica, i would like to confirm it - the Hisun 800 has 2 sensors - one in the radiator appears to be a fully open or fully closed bi-metal contact switch similar to the old household thermostats for your heating system. - My fans turn on and off automatically as they should and a jumper across the connector also triggers the fan - appears to be a simple logic circuit back to the computer that then trips a relay for the fans. The second sensor is on the back cylinder almost hidden by the throttle body and idle control system - I have unplugged it, sprayed it with contact cleaner, checked the pins, tried to get a resistance reading across the sensor, reconnected it and still get a blinking red light on the display panel warning of high temperature - this occurs even when the buggy is still cold having just started it in the morning - I have not been able to trace out the other end of the cable on the display panel since it appears i will have to remove the entire front plastic to get to it - hoping i could confirm the resistance before i go to that step (this is the same buggy originally posted by Jim Magnuson last September when the spark arrestor overheated and burned the plastic pickup bed - I fixed that by removing and cleaning the spark arrestor and it has never glowed red again. I would really like to put a guage in place of the digital idiot light since (from experience in automobiles) by the time the idiot light goes on you have already damaged the engine - Which brings the second question - would it be advisable to swap the front radiator sensor for a real sensor and then jumper the fans to always on condition at the connector so the computer contentedly thinks everything is working and it is doing its job ?


×
×
  • Create New...