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etimc

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Everything posted by etimc

  1. Don't remember now - however, using a Volt Meter to ground on one side of the connector coming from the control block, showed 12 volts and the other side showed nothing (although I did see a miniscule voltage on what should have been the ground wire, this is a key indicator of a faulty ground and means your are getting a ground loop) -I switched the VOM to ohms and measured the other wire back to a ground on the engine used by other circuits and found an open - made a jumper wire and grounded the side I had just tested and fuel pump came on instantly when i turned on the ignition key (fuel injected model)
  2. downloaded it - found links here on this forum
  3. I had the same problem with my 800 hisun - if the pump is not bolted exactly with the float at 90 degrees to the front face of the tank it will hit and block the float from rising - drove mine for 2 years watching the mileage and using a homemade dipstick till i figured it out one day when i was trying to remove and check the fuel pump - pump was fine, ground wire back to frame was bad - made a new ground jumper and pump worked - benefit was that suddenly the fuel gauge also worked when i followed the instructions for aligning the pump when installing - the pump ground was not the gauge problem because the gauge never worked for as long as i have owned it even though the pump was working fine)- i guess the last guy didnt read the chapter on pump alignment - manual was in english and they all speak spanish here - grin - if it is not an alignment issue, i would suggest seeing if the float has a leak and is sinking - it is nothing but a glorified toilet tank float in concept and that happens on occasion to toilets as well as lawnmower and old dirt bike carburetor bowl floats
  4. I may have seen this problem before also - my buddy was a champion motorcycle racer / bike builder until an accident landed him in a wheel chair - the first time i rolled up to the sidewalk next to him and shut it off, to show him my new toy, his first words from his mouth were "your exhaust valves are to tight" - dang it, he was right - i was always trying to figure why it would stall at stop signs - had to wait about 2 months for someone to bring me a feeler gauge back from the states and it was getting worse (I couldnt find one here in my area in Costa Rica) - got the gauge, followed the instructions and that problem was gone
  5. With wheels blocked, motor off but key on, use a volt meter and see if you actually have 12 volts at your splice - hot lead from meter on your splice other lead on a clean metal part of the frame - have a helper activate and deactivate the switch for the differential lock while you are watching the meter - if you have the correct voltage, look for a bad ground wire - if no voltage (and you are sure this is the hot wire to the differential solenoid) - undo your splice, make a jumper from the battery positive terminal and momentarily touch it to the hot wire on the side going to the differential - you should hear the solenoid click - if no click check the ground from solenoid again - last hope at that point is turn off the switch and connect an ohm meter to the hot wire and ground of the differential lock - an open - (no reading on the vom) means a wire broken beyond the splice, or no ground or a burned out solenoid on the differential lock - a 0.00 ohms reading means that you might have a shorted or burned coil inside of the solenoid - try reading at the lowest (smallest) ohms setting on the meter - manuals for your buggy are available in several places online - they tell you what ohm reading is allowed for many parts of the vehicle - search this forum for links to the service manual - did I mention to check the ground again - lol - that would be a subconscious accident of 40 plus years of experience (bad experiences - grin)
  6. Mine looks the same - mods mine - the pump quit - checked for voltage at the connector you are showing and it was fine - almost ready to erroneously replace an expensive and perfectly good fuel pump until I happened to realize that I had hooked my meter to ground with an alligator clip and was only probing the hot side - I grounded the black wire to a frame bolt and pump came alive - your post tells me that my problem is not unique - "nothing new under the sun" lol
  7. If you recognize an RS-232 connector. You just gave away your age - lol - I have the same issue - I tried to find a reader also - I am not sure if you can buy one unless you are a dealer or an authorized service center - still ticked off and waiting for someone richer than me to sue John Deere - you own a 200,000 dollar tractor but not the 500 dollar ECU that runs everything on it - Detroit tried that for years until the government demanded a standard that every car sold in the USA had to follow - was OBD2, now CAN
  8. After thought - I do remember that I also replaced one of the 2 electric fan relays - check the relays and the temperature sensor on the back, bottom, left of the radiator -
  9. They notoriously run hot - search this forum for adapting bigger dual electric fans - my 800 does have thermostats (supposedly, I never took them off to see if they are installed - living in a tropical climate makes them needless) mine ran hot because some genius installed the license plate over the front grill for the radiator. I drilled my own holes and made a bracket to mount it hanging down below the bumper - it regularly gets folded off roading but I flatten it back straight enough to keep the tránsito from pulling me over - if you are certain that the pump is working - I would keep burping it for air bubbles - had that problem with a little 3 cylinder Korean car for several months before I finally got it to purge completely - you may have to start it cold, with a hose in the radiator and just keep running the motor and burping the return hose until it gets too hot to hold on to and you can almost feel the circulating water pressure as you squeeze the hose.
  10. If I am not mistaken (and I spent a lot of hours reading) hisung was a Japanese owned Rhino (Yamaha?) factory - when the Japanese moved production, the factory renamed itself and kept right on building - after probably not a few lawsuits, they ended up re-engineering enough to not violate patent laws - they also invested a fortune in some high end, state of art robotics (geek alert - I spent a lot of years in engineering - robotics and automation, so I am impressed) - today they make a reasonable priced utv that is half decent quality - they ship raw parts to Texas and assemble them in several configurations and different brand names - under the plastic they are about like a camaro vs transam or mustang vs capri - I was surprised to find that I can get parts for mine here in Costa Rica - (not surprised to find out that he just orders them from US, marks them up and adds shipping costs - but he does stock some of the most common / popular parts so I don't have to wait or deal with the aduanas agents (customs) - good luck in your search - I love mine (most of the time - grin)
  11. etimc

    etimc

  12. More reading and research and I guess it appears that both sensors are full make/break contact switches and a third sensor in the MAF/MAP/Temp sensor is the one that is variable resistance - sooo - if my dash light is always on for overheat condition, then i guess i need to follow the wire and find where it might be grounding out.
  13. I suspect I have a faulty temp sensor but at the cost of the sensor plus 50 percent tariff plus the shipping cost to Costa Rica, i would like to confirm it - the Hisun 800 has 2 sensors - one in the radiator appears to be a fully open or fully closed bi-metal contact switch similar to the old household thermostats for your heating system. - My fans turn on and off automatically as they should and a jumper across the connector also triggers the fan - appears to be a simple logic circuit back to the computer that then trips a relay for the fans. The second sensor is on the back cylinder almost hidden by the throttle body and idle control system - I have unplugged it, sprayed it with contact cleaner, checked the pins, tried to get a resistance reading across the sensor, reconnected it and still get a blinking red light on the display panel warning of high temperature - this occurs even when the buggy is still cold having just started it in the morning - I have not been able to trace out the other end of the cable on the display panel since it appears i will have to remove the entire front plastic to get to it - hoping i could confirm the resistance before i go to that step (this is the same buggy originally posted by Jim Magnuson last September when the spark arrestor overheated and burned the plastic pickup bed - I fixed that by removing and cleaning the spark arrestor and it has never glowed red again. I would really like to put a guage in place of the digital idiot light since (from experience in automobiles) by the time the idiot light goes on you have already damaged the engine - Which brings the second question - would it be advisable to swap the front radiator sensor for a real sensor and then jumper the fans to always on condition at the connector so the computer contentedly thinks everything is working and it is doing its job ?
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