Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Popular Now

  • Similar Topics

    • By MilSurpYinzer
      Hey all, I was just wondering what you guys consider a necessary upgrade or spare part to have or mod onto your machine.
      I'm going for a kind of shtf survival rig that's not going to be SUPER heavy and I'm looking at getting:
      A spare belt (I keep seeing this mentioned everywhere I look so it must be important)
      A spare tire and mount( So would I need a jack like one from an old jeep or something else?)
      Tire chains for the winter
      And maybe a cargo bed upgrade so things don't slide out.
      Bumpers because duh.
      I already installed high output lights and have a windshield, roof, back window, and winch. And I outfitted a Molle panel for the back of my passenger seat with extra supplies like food, first aid, and spare mags.
      Any advise on increasing durability, longevity, and having something on hand because it's absolutely necessary would be a plus.
      Thanks so much!
    • By Outlaw Redneck
      Hello all. I have a 2005 Joyner sand spider 650 with the dreaded broken output shaft on the transmission. I got ahold of a 2007 joyner commando 650 for cheap that had a bad motor but a good transmission. I got it because everything i read said that the transmission would work but it seems that it will not. Due to the commando being 4x4 it has a selectable locker and a small ring gear using a "idler" gear to turn the ring gear which make the output spin the wrong direction. Is there any way that I can make this thing work? I really dont want a commando,  I like the buggy but if the trans wont work then I can only put my motor in the commando. Any help would be appreciated. I have the ring gear from the original trans but the shaft is broken and the shaft from the commando wont fit the ring gear it doesn't appear. 
    • By jon pino
      having trouble with a 2013 uxv500i. have replaced stator due to bad pulser coil. new unit does not work. manual value for pulser coil is 100ish ohm, measured value is 500 ohm. can anyone with one of these fuel injected later model units check their pulser coil with an ohm meter for me? left side of engine small connector next to 3 yellows. jon 605-545-7040
    • By jamesxevan
      I’ve been eyeing a Hisun 500 soft cab enclosure upper doors setup for my UTV, but I’m really not sure if it’s a smart move. The idea of doors and some protection sounds appealing, but I worry they might just be a flimsy afterthought — weak zippers, thin plastic windows, maybe leaking or fogging when wet or cold. What good is “protection” if it doesn’t seal well? Also concerned about ventilation: with soft doors, does the cab get too muggy or stuffy?
      Anyone here use soft-cab doors on a Hisun 500 — did they actually hold up for real riding conditions, or did you end up ditching them for hard doors (or no doors)?
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...