2009 POLARIS RZR 800s w/FULL POLY CAB
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By Sidewinder
All mid 2008 through 2014 Polaris RZR 800 series have a big problem with the rear differential pinion nut backing off, allowing the pinion gear to shoot into the rear differential, destroying the rear differential. This has happened with machines with as little as less than 100 miles on them! Reports indicate that there are no problems, nor warnings, until the rear differential grenades, locking the rear axles solid! This requires the machine to be lifted onto a trailer, to be transported for rear differential replacement, as it destroys the case. After failure, rear differential replacement can be quite expensive: labor alone can run from $800-$1200 and a new OEM Spicer rear diff, if you can find one, can run from $1700-$2500! So, if you own any Polaris RZR 800 series between the years of 2008-2014, I recommend that you do this repair before further use of your machine. personally, I have grounded my machine until it can be done. Please check the online post for your own awareness.
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By marvin schuchart
Has anyone with a K9 2400 had issues your machine, My wife uses this one around the house. We have 60 pampered miles on hers and had a few issues. The master cylinder went out the 1st 30 miles, and again the master cylinder went out at 60 miles, I have been waiting for the dealer to install a new one for over a month now. the electric dump unit went bad at 55 miles, used it 5 times, window winder knob broke off handle on both sides, after a rain when I pull out it's a wall of rusty water that runs down firewall inside cab. Rusty water runs out tail gate when I lay it down, had to drill holes in bottom of tailgate to let rainwater out. I have a Polaris Ranger and a Kubota side by side, both have over 1600 hours and only had to do routine maintenance on these 2 old machines
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By Big Red Dog
Bought my 2009 Yamaha Rhino, (fuel injected of course), recently from the original owner. Only had 500 miles and 70hrs. Starts reliably, however, it will not idle but about 50% of the time. Also, when driving slow in low or high, that is to say, relatively low rpms and below about 10 mph, it bucks and almost wants to die..... not smooth at all. However, at speed (say 12-15 mph or more) it runs very well, like it should. Any ideas?
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By hetovi
Hi everyone,
I’m considering installing a soft cab enclosure on my vehicle and wanted to get some insights from experienced users.
I’m particularly curious about which materials hold up best in different weather conditions and how to properly secure the enclosure to prevent leaks or wind noise.
Are there specific brands or models you recommend for durability and ease of use?
Also, how do you handle cleaning and maintenance without causing damage?
Any tips, tricks, or common mistakes to avoid would be incredibly helpful.
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By jamesxevan
I’ve been eyeing a Hisun 500 soft cab enclosure upper doors setup for my UTV, but I’m really not sure if it’s a smart move. The idea of doors and some protection sounds appealing, but I worry they might just be a flimsy afterthought — weak zippers, thin plastic windows, maybe leaking or fogging when wet or cold. What good is “protection” if it doesn’t seal well? Also concerned about ventilation: with soft doors, does the cab get too muggy or stuffy?
Anyone here use soft-cab doors on a Hisun 500 — did they actually hold up for real riding conditions, or did you end up ditching them for hard doors (or no doors)?
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