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Posted

Hi all. 

Im new to the utv world. I just bought a 2014 Odes Raider 800. It has only 10.2 miles but has been sitting awhile. I want to change oil and front and rear differential oil. Cause it still has what ever they stuck in it from the dealership. Also what gas rating should I run in it.  I figure mid or high test fuel.  I downloaded the manual for it but it does not say what gear oils or or oil it runs.  Thanks for any help and input. 

Posted

Welcome to the forum!

Mid grade gas, or low grade preferably the non ethanol would be best. Definitely not hi grade. That's for performance engines, and it might seem counterintuitive, but it won't help, and will definitely cost a lot more. And might make it not run as good. Non ethanol is a much bigger issue. Lots of people have problems with ethanol. Some areas allow more of it in gas, than others. So if that's your area, you'll want to be especially careful. But most areas have a source for non ethanol. It'll still run just fine with ethanol, lots of people do, and if that's all you have. It's more of a cumulative effect, but it's better not to have it. It seems to gum up the works a bit on some buggies. 

Motor oil is determined by outside temperature, and operating practices. So it depends on the season, what area you live, and how you use a given piece of equipment. In the case of a utv, they're not typically driven that hard, so it's more about outside temperatures, in your area. 

Thicker oil where I live in semi perpetual summer. Thinner where there's actually seasons. Multi viscosity is how they cover all the bases. It's neither critical, nor rocket science. So unless you're in an extreme environment. Its not a major issue. The lower 48 typically have something around 30wt. Or maybe 40wt. in summer. And usually its a multi weight version. Find out what a similar machine uses. Go with that, keep it changed, when it gets dark.

Can't help you on the gear oil, that would depend on the actual differential. Probably gear oil, but it could be transmission fluid for all I know. These new machines are creatively designed nowadays. 

I do know that the seals around ALL the shafts in ANY machine can dry out with lack of use. So when you drive it. Stay close, till you're sure you won't start hemorrhaging fluids. A few drops would be normal for a machine that's sit for awhile. It might clear up after a few drive cycles. As the seals absorb fluid. Or so I'm told. Mine always had to be changed, as they always kept leaking. Good luck!

  • Thanks 1
Posted

You didn't say if it's 4wd. So I'd like to add,  that if it's 4wd. that you lube the front diff often. At least once a month. Lube it by driving it in 4wd. Do NOT do ANY turning on pavement, while in 4wd. EVER! Can't stress that enough. 

I won't even turn mine on hard pack dirt while engaged. Disengage the 4wd. before any turns, unless you're actually in the mud. If you want to lube the front differential on concrete. Do it in a straight line. A quarter mile or so per month is plenty. 

I use 4wd. only when I see that I'll actually need it. Then disengage immediately after. 

Don't wait till wheels are spinning to engage the 4wd. do it before you hit the slop.

Following this guideline will make the front drive last indefinitely. Otherwise, those delicate, expensive, parts can get damaged.  Stay safe and good luck!

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Thank you for information. Mine is 4wd. I ran it 10 miles yesturday. The more i ran it the better it ran after setting.  Did have to use 4wd in trails but when i made it up the hill disengaged and made sure it was disengaged on display before taking off. I did however notice breaks seem spongy. I bled all tires twice before i went. Anybody had this problem?

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