Jump to content


2014 Odes Raider 800 ( Need Info please)

Recommended Posts

Hi all. 

Im new to the utv world. I just bought a 2014 Odes Raider 800. It has only 10.2 miles but has been sitting awhile. I want to change oil and front and rear differential oil. Cause it still has what ever they stuck in it from the dealership. Also what gas rating should I run in it.  I figure mid or high test fuel.  I downloaded the manual for it but it does not say what gear oils or or oil it runs.  Thanks for any help and input. 

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome to the forum!

Mid grade gas, or low grade preferably the non ethanol would be best. Definitely not hi grade. That's for performance engines, and it might seem counterintuitive, but it won't help, and will definitely cost a lot more. And might make it not run as good. Non ethanol is a much bigger issue. Lots of people have problems with ethanol. Some areas allow more of it in gas, than others. So if that's your area, you'll want to be especially careful. But most areas have a source for non ethanol. It'll still run just fine with ethanol, lots of people do, and if that's all you have. It's more of a cumulative effect, but it's better not to have it. It seems to gum up the works a bit on some buggies. 

Motor oil is determined by outside temperature, and operating practices. So it depends on the season, what area you live, and how you use a given piece of equipment. In the case of a utv, they're not typically driven that hard, so it's more about outside temperatures, in your area. 

Thicker oil where I live in semi perpetual summer. Thinner where there's actually seasons. Multi viscosity is how they cover all the bases. It's neither critical, nor rocket science. So unless you're in an extreme environment. Its not a major issue. The lower 48 typically have something around 30wt. Or maybe 40wt. in summer. And usually its a multi weight version. Find out what a similar machine uses. Go with that, keep it changed, when it gets dark.

Can't help you on the gear oil, that would depend on the actual differential. Probably gear oil, but it could be transmission fluid for all I know. These new machines are creatively designed nowadays. 

I do know that the seals around ALL the shafts in ANY machine can dry out with lack of use. So when you drive it. Stay close, till you're sure you won't start hemorrhaging fluids. A few drops would be normal for a machine that's sit for awhile. It might clear up after a few drive cycles. As the seals absorb fluid. Or so I'm told. Mine always had to be changed, as they always kept leaking. Good luck!

  • Thanks 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

You didn't say if it's 4wd. So I'd like to add,  that if it's 4wd. that you lube the front diff often. At least once a month. Lube it by driving it in 4wd. Do NOT do ANY turning on pavement, while in 4wd. EVER! Can't stress that enough. 

I won't even turn mine on hard pack dirt while engaged. Disengage the 4wd. before any turns, unless you're actually in the mud. If you want to lube the front differential on concrete. Do it in a straight line. A quarter mile or so per month is plenty. 

I use 4wd. only when I see that I'll actually need it. Then disengage immediately after. 

Don't wait till wheels are spinning to engage the 4wd. do it before you hit the slop.

Following this guideline will make the front drive last indefinitely. Otherwise, those delicate, expensive, parts can get damaged.  Stay safe and good luck!

  • Thanks 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for information. Mine is 4wd. I ran it 10 miles yesturday. The more i ran it the better it ran after setting.  Did have to use 4wd in trails but when i made it up the hill disengaged and made sure it was disengaged on display before taking off. I did however notice breaks seem spongy. I bled all tires twice before i went. Anybody had this problem?

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Chad Rice
      HELP - my wife and i just bought a 2013 joyner trooper 1100 and we rode for 2 evenings with no problems. Went to ride last night and all of a sudden it acted like something was catching up and it didn't want to move easily. Whatever it was must've broke and now it moves with no problem but is making a rubbing/grinding noise somewhere in the backend. Could it be wheel bearing, differential, or something in cv shaft. Any info or similar experiences is appreciated. 
    • By mcraigchr
      Howdy all,
      I searched the forum (and the internet in general) for this and didn't find anything that looked like an answer.
      I purchased a Coleman 550 from Tractor Supply last October.  Runs well.  Really only one issue that I have had and that is a dragging brake pad.  Still haven't fixed it, but hope to soon.
      For now, it is time for the first oil change (38 hours).  After some reading, I decided to use Mobil 1 4T 10w-40.  I also purchased a filter from motorcyledoctor.com.  Got the filter and noticed that there is a hex head on the end.  I thought "Hey that's nifty, but I wonder why they did that?".  Then I went to change the oil and I know why now.  Which brings me to my question.
      How in the hell is one supposed to get that oil filter off?  First off, it is not obvious how to take the seat base out to get leverage.  I thought about cutting out the plastic above where the filter is.  But decided against it for now.  I tried my best to work within the tiny space given to get the filter out.  I have a number of different filter wrenches.  Only one is able to fit over the filter.  But ... I could not get the filter to break loose.
      So, I ordered a strap wrench from Amazon.  
      In case that doesn't work, I also ordered this:
      My intention with the latter is that if the strap wrench does not work, I will punch a hole or two into the side of the second product.  Put it over the end of the filter, put two screws into it and hope I can break it loose.
      Anyone else experience this incredibly difficult task?  I have always worked on my own vehicles and have had some difficult circumstances, but I always prevailed.  Not this time.  The Coleman 550 b*tch slapped me this weekend and is pointing and laughing at me.
      Any suggestions or recommendations would be great.  If nothing else, just some content on the subject so that someone else who might be having the same issue can find this and get some ideas.
    • By josephb
      I've had to remove and replace a couple axles in the past. Now I just can't remember how I did it. Yes, the spindle and hub is removed. Any trick to help would be greatly appreciated. T I A.
    • By lhcribbs
      I recently inherited a 2014 MCU 500. A nephew accidentally put diesel in the tank, proceeded to run it until it stalled out. We proceeded to empty the tank and put fresh gas in it. It ran maybe for 10 minutes then shut off. Haven’t been able to get it started since. That’s when I started to mess with it. This is what I’ve done so far. I might add I know the very basics of on engines so I thought I would come here and get some advice. 
      - emptied tank and lines leading up to fuel. Filled and primed with new gas.
      -cleaned air in-take, it was pretty dirty. 
      -did a full oil change. I felt like there was definitely diesel mixed in. 
      -changed spark plug. Tested and working appropriately
      - tested fuel injector and it appears to be working 
      That’s where I’m at so far and still nothing. At this point looking to see what the next steps would be in trying to diagnose what’s going on. Appreciate the help in advance. 

    • By Dan B
      The brake pads on my Renegade seem to be quite thin, less than 1800 miles.  Does anyone know what the thickness of new brake pad friction material is.  It will give me an idea as to how much brake pad life I might have left.  A supplier or suitable substitues would also be helpful in case I need to get new ones.  Thanks in advance.
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By Snowplow
      CLEARANCE!!!!!!! BRAND NEW ODES RAIDER 800 UTV. 2 Passenger. This is an INCREDIBLE NEW SPORT MODEL from Odes. Don't pay premium prices for Yahama, Polaris, Kawasaki, and Can-Am. These machines meet or beat the others!!! A GREAT DEAL for a LIMITED TIME at $8,999 + tax/title/destination ($10,995.95 MSRP)!!! This is the Only One and it won't last long, so Come By and See it Today!!! FINANCING Available with GREAT RATES!!!
      Features: 800cc V-Twin Engine! 60 HP. Top Speed 63 MPH. Fully Automatic Trans. Water Cooled. 2x4, 4x4, 4x4 Diff. Lock Total Drive. Downhill Assist w/Engine Braking. Delphi-EFI Ignition. Odes Custom 14" Aluminum Wheels. 26" Monster Off Road Tires. Half Windshield. Fastace Race Suspension. LED Lightbar for Monster Lighting. Integrated Sound System w/USB Integrated Port and In-dash Display.

      ODES is an American Owned company committed to great products and support. All UTVs carry a 2 Year Limited Warranty. Don't pay premium prices for Yahama, Polaris, Kawasaki, and Can-Am. These machines meet or beat the others!!! You can take one home today!

      JCL Sells and Services ODES and Massimo UTVs. Call today 586-949-4550 or drop by to see this UTV or for all of your UTV, Trailer, Mower, and Snowplow needs. We have parts and service from 8:30 am to 6:00 pm Mon. - Fri., and 9:00 am to 2:00 pm on Saturday. Come in and see all the ODES we have in stock.

      JCL Snowplow and Trailer Dealer
      49685 Gratiot Ave.
      Chesterfield, MI 48051

      Check out our website at www.jclsnowplows.com

  • Create New...