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By brewski
I just purchased a 2025 kubota rtv 1100 x cab esd esnting to install light bars on the roof it appears to be prewired for lights how do lights mount and what kind of switches do i need
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By schreib69
I just bought an older (2008) Teryx 750 and am having some concerns. Hoping of course, that most are not too big. . . but more knowledgeable folks like yourselves will surely have some ideas. Thanks in advance.
-- about 2700 hrs, camo version
-- Starting: after not running much at the auction site, I tried it and it was tough to start but half of this was likely I did not quite know the tricks for how long to keep the choke on. However, once it started it was kind of hard to keep running until it warmed up(once warmed it starts perfectly every time with no choke). Now, back to running after the first ignition: I had to hold the RPM's up a bit to keep it running and when doing so it sounded as if a little gnome was inside the engine pounding on something at random intervals. Wondering if this could be detonation-- "knocking"? After warming, it disappeared completely. Maybe just need higher octane gas??
-- After starting and running a bit there was a pretty terrible smell, most "like" burning rubber or an electrical fire. No fire or resolution of this. Eventually this TOO went mostly away, but still basically present. Could it be adjustment needed for the main belt variable speed tranny?
-- When I move from neutral into either Lo or HIGH range forward gears, I get gear clashing. I did NOT put foot on brake and read in manual(just NOW) that you are supposed to do so. (I have NOT gotten back out to check and see if this matters. ) OR, could it be part of the drive system is mashed up??! Geez, hope not.
-- There is a big open hole allowing direct sight into the belt transmission on the back right side. This can't be normal, it must require some plastic cover. Right? Any rodent could get right into the transmission!
-- THere appears to be no muffler or spark arrestor unit. This "could " be the cause of some of the smell. . . ?? but that should not smell like burning rubber or electrical smell. . .
SO. That is all.
I sure would appreciate any insight on this issues and finally(!). . . if I was to take this into a local dealer what would you say are the top three issues I should have them address first?
thanks!
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By Razorair
New to this site I just got this 2014 Coleman UTV 700 High Temp Light on from the start cold I haven't really ohm checked the sensors although they are all new but I have done lots of work on the engine I've replace the head gasket, wet clutch rebuilt the primary clutch and cleaned the secondary clutch with a new belt plus a bunch of other stuff I just can't figure out this high temp light that is on at start and has never been off. I have bled the air multiple times. I also wired a switch for the fan to run it most of the time due to others that have suggested this. It is running good the radiator is getting warm but really haven't ran it enough to make sure it's not getting too hot but I just want the light to work as it's suppose to. I would really like to install a true temp gauge if anybody could help with doing that.
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By screasy
I am replacing a wet clutch on my Axis 750. I wanted to add a slug kit to improve performance. The Slugs I received fit into the holes on the wet clutch, but they are not a tight fit. They fall all the way to the bottom, and when I put the spring plate back on, they will rattle back and forth if I turn the clutch upside down. I don't think they will come out, but if they move freely inside the holes is that a problem? All of the videos I have seen people have to press the slugs in flush, and these definitely float freely. There is not a great amount of space around the slug, but it is moving freely. Thoughts?
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By ejt
I upgraded the lighting on my 1988 Mule 1000 KAF450. Changed the ancient dim headlights to LED bars and the 1157 taillight bulbs to LED as well. They are flickering / pulsing at a pretty fast rate. Anyone else experienced something like this? I've heard that this kind of problem can sometimes be fixed with a capacitor. The resistor fix for hyper flashing on cars doesn't seem right for this issue.
The fuel pump makes a fast ticking noise and the flickering of the lights seems to be in sync with that. Don't know if the fuel pump is creating some sort of interference in the electrical system. The flickering happens whether or not the engine is running. I connected one of the lights across the battery terminals to test it and it lights up beautifully with no flickering.
I would like to see if anyone with some more electronic chops than me has dealt with this problem before. Thank you.
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