Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts



Travis.....just read starter tale of woe.  The 2nd starter (CHINO) had an internal open circuit i.e. the brushes or armature.  Older starters did not have stopper brush holders, and as the brushes wore down (and spring tension less), the Cu braid cable would burn a trench in the commutator Cu bars....no fix except to have the armature rebuilt.  Newer starter brush plates have the stopper and then after wearing down to where the brushes Cu braided wire hit the stopper bar, end up having a poor contact connection....new (full length) brushes, clean armature, and good to go.  Tapping will "fix" in early stages to get you back home.  Another problem is holding the key on and the motor not turning....will generate a hot spot and lift the Cu bar.  Another problem is the edges of the Cu bars will burn away leaving a "rounded" not flat bar.....since the brushes cannot hit a 'full' bar width, current is less....fix is to turn down commutator bars on lathe...within reason...for a second chance before the scrap barrel.

Explaining your test:  You had the same voltage on the battery terminal AND the starter motor hot terminal...case is GND.  The battery cable has resistance so expect a small drop say .4 to .6 v drop.  The solenoid contacts (big ums) are about 0 v if good.  NO CURRENT FLOW.  Current flows from HOT terminal in to a brush (2 brush plate) or opposite brushes (4 brush plate)-----thru commutator Cu bars.....thru Cu armature windings----back to the CU bars...then out the single or dual brushes to case--- GND.

What to look for from past T/S findings.  Brushes worn.....too short or light pressure.  Weak springs.  Spring hung on brush holder..as in placed not on the slot on the back side of brush.  Spring holder "box" not square....like something hit it at assy or stepped on...makes the brush bind.  Mechanical........worn small bushing or dry big end bearing making it hang then burn the Cu bar.  You might be able to save the chino....but don't expect a rebuild kit to fit.  RICK'S was our vendor of choice a few years back.  He had stators, regulators, CDI, etc.  don't know if he is still in business.

Pricing on OEM parts.  80 and 90's 100% markup........COST   $60      MSRP   $120.      Then dollar/yen hit,   COST $80  MSRP    $120.  That was how the pricing line was held......There are tons of OEM parts out there from Dealers inventory auctions/liquidations who went belly up.  Some sellers pass on a good deal while others are greedy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the information Ben!

 i got a new starter from Arrowhead industries about 2 weeks ago, and it's been working great ever since.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...