Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Unless Hisun has dramatically changed the rear reducer on the 2019 Outfitter 550 it remains that it is NOT a differential at all, but rather a "solid" , "spooler" type gearbox--it has no "differential".

This i the latest (2018) diagram I have:

35.thumb.gif.0063bd23f541c0d4e6e9a367700b3000.gif

Due to the narrow rear track no "differential proper" is needed--it would just add complication with no benefit--and in fact reduce traction in 2WD mode...

Post a photo of your beast's rear end (the UTV, don't get wild on us) and we'll know for sure...

   

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Prepper
      I have been doing a little research on which engine oil is best for UTV engines.  There seems to be some disagreement over using a good quality regular engine oil, and the necessity of using "M2" (or wet clutch suitable) oil.  My understanding is the "wet clutch" suitable oil has less friction reduction properties (hence a more responsive clutch with less slippage).  While less friction reduction properties would seem to be better for the wet clutch... it would not be best for the internal engine parts like camshaft bearings and other moving parts where friction is detrimental and would lead to premature failure.  Some folks swear you need M2 oil, while others say they have been using regular motor oil for years and their clutch is just fine.  Could they both be right ???
      Any thoughts ?
       
    • By amiracle40995
      I’m getting a 700-7 every startup. I’m having to change the plug every 100 miles on 93 octane gas. I got a lower numbered plug that is supposed to burn hotter. I’m wondering why that comes up every time I start it and if it’s related? I included a picture of the code or whatever it is. I haven’t seen the code in the owners manual or the hisun shop manual I have. 

    • By BigWave
      I turned off the key and then tried to start it a minute later and it would not start. I changed out the fuel filter and the injector. still nothing. if i have the injector pulled out and close to the hole the injector will spray fuel into the hole and it will run but the minute you put the injector in it will die. any idea's please
       
       
      Bigwave
       
    • By SkyPilot56
      working on a coleman 550 out fitter , had a shit load of codes, coil, injector , and the map sensor for fuel injector replaced all 3 and figured it would start , but no joy have spark (new plug also and inline fuel filter) cleared the codes and still have the engine light , turns over fine but damn thing still will not start, friends daughters were driving it and turned it off to park , and went back to start it and same thing turns over but will not start , with this machine anyone have any ideas as to what the hell , I should be looking for , no plug's unplug checked wires none seem to be pulled apart or broken !
    • By Homeowner A
      Is there a code reader available for the Coleman UTV 400?  I tried using the HUD ECU Hacker software and cables/adapters but no luck OBD to delphi 6 pin and KKL VAG as well as ELM327.  Will not connect.  I was able to get it to connect randomly a couple of times, but haven't been able to since.  I was able to clear and read the codes briefly.  I'm aware of the Tiny Scan 301 but it doesn't seem to be readily available.  There's a few out there but they are expensive.  
×
×
  • Create New...