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working on a coleman 550 out fitter


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working on a coleman 550 out fitter , had a shit load of codes, coil, injector , and the map sensor for fuel injector replaced all 3 and figured it would start , but no joy have spark (new plug also and inline fuel filter) cleared the codes and still have the engine light , turns over fine but damn thing still will not start, friends daughters were driving it and turned it off to park , and went back to start it and same thing turns over but will not start , with this machine anyone have any ideas as to what the hell , I should be looking for , no plug's unplug checked wires none seem to be pulled apart or broken !

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  • Alex changed the title to working on a coleman 550 out fitter

Ok so it has spark. Next up fuel and compression.

 

Fuel:

Do you have fuel in the tank?

When you turn the key to on (don't start it) do you hear the fuel pump run for 5 seconds then turn off? Should be a hum from under the passenger seat area.

If those are both good pull the fuel line from the injector. It is right on top of engine. With the key switched on you should get a good fuel flow from that.

If that's good reconnect it and remove the injector. Ground the spark plug to prevent inadvertent sparks. Hold a rag over the eng of the injector and have someone crank the motor over. You should get sprays out of the injector.

Compression:

Check the engine compression by installing a compression tester in the spark plug hole. Ground out the sparkplug again, and crank the motor over for a few seconds. If the motor is in good shape you should get 150+psi. Below 120 psi it likely won't run at all. If the compression is lowI would check the valve lash adjustment, if that's ok I would add little oil to the cylinder and check compression again to see if the rings might be the issue.

Tools:

You can make a spark plug grounding tool with a bolt, a ring terminal, some short wire, and an alligator clip. The bolt goes in the spark plug boot, ring terminal attaches the wire to the bolt, and alligator clip attaches the wire to a metal spot on the engine. This will prevent damage to the coil from having to jump a long gap, and prevent sparking when working with atomized fuel checking the injector.

You can buy a cheap compression tester from Amazon or harbor freight.

 

Let me know where you get to and we can further troubleshoot as you narrow down any issues.

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I have all the tools needed , I work on my own stuff which are Polaris's looking at this for a Neighbor because he took it to a coleman dealership and they had it for 7 weeks and gave it back all apart , so he asked me to take a look at it , just running into a lot of things I have never seen , and the coleman manuals are incomplete when it comes to trouble codes Example no reference to Code E200 , which I know is electrical from the E in front of the code, was told that a new Brain was installed prior to me looking at it, was also told that my neighbor was told that it had to be flashed to his perticular machine, which I have never heard of ? , but I am going to check compression and timing chain play ,just never have had electrical current come through a plug wire just by turning the key on and this kind of back pressure come out through the air intake !! so Know what to check but figured I would ask people who own this perticular model, thanks

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E means error code, not electrical. All the low 200's codes are having to do with fuel & fuel injection. 201 is injector #1 circuit error. There is no 200 listed in the coleman/hisun/delphi literature. you can download the Delphi mt-05 manual online, but 90% of it is already tacked onto the end of the hisun service manuals anyway.

The ecu is a Delphi mt-05. There is no flashing. There is a way to read the parameters and codes using $25 in cabling and free software. I have a thread below that explains the process. You can also adjust some parameters, but there shouldn't be a need to do that it should run off the shelf.

If there's backpressure coming out the intake I would suspect the timing is way off or the valve lash is too tight and the intake valve is staying open thru the compression stroke. I have seen a number of people have timing chain tension issues so it's possible that it's skipped several teeth and is off timing. If you pull the plug, and the fan cover you can spin it over by hand to TDC and check the valve lash easily, so that's where I'd start. You can see the cam from there so it should be obvious if it's way out of time.

 

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