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cliffyk

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cliffyk last won the day on February 26

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About cliffyk

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  • Birthday 04/19/1947
  • Location Saint Augustine, FL, USA

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  1. Here they are at the end of the print cycle (the SLA resin printer "prints" things upside down, the supports [hangers] are needed for dimensional stability: Ready to be popped off the build plate: In the "oven" for the final curing: The "oven is a gutted 0.7 ft³ microwave oven, with nothing left but the turntable and timer. The Magnetron was replaced with a 30 W 405 nm UV LED array. 45 minutes of that fully cures the resin... The postal service will not let them be shipped in a plain ol' evelope (too thick)--I'll figure out the most economical shipping metho
  2. Yup... The rear track is so narrow there's no real need for a differential--the front OTH has to deal with steering as has been mentioned here, drive it on a hard surface with the differential locked up and the need for same becomes quite apparent. I agree that the Hisun and other lesser cost Asian ATVs and UTVS are not for those with little to no mechanical knowledge--knew that going in--those who must run to the dealer to have the spark plug and oil changed should not buy one..However,parts for my HS400 seem readily available and the machine itself is remarkable in its simplicity.
  3. THe Massimo tech was wrong, the vehicle has a final drive gear case, which they incorrectly refer to as the "Rear Differential" in some parts lists I've seen--such as shown below: However if you study the exploded parts diagram you will see that both axle shafts insert directly into the ring gear hub--there are no side gears, no carrier or spider gears--I.e. no differential. They can call it one but that does no make it one just as calling a cow's tail a leg does not mean a cow has five legs. My Coleman Outfitter 400 (Hisun HS400) is the same. When I first got it I was surprise
  4. I'm printing a half-dozen of them now (takes 7-1/2 hours) the resin costs about $1 each, nothing else but wait, cleaning and final curing time; a 2¢ O-ring, and a tiny bit of electricity--if anyone is interested in one give me a yell--we'll work something out (an SASE or whatever)...
  5. The "hex nut" is just an adapter for the "push-pull" dipstick--many motocycles, etc. have a screw-in dipstick as shown in the illustration Travis provided, Removing what you have is no big deal--however 'twas me, I'd get rid of it and get a screw-in dipstick that can be removed without tools--just for convenience' sake. My Coleman (Hisun) Outfitter 400 has the more typical screw-in dipstick. I made an extended screw-in adapter (3D printed)--it's just a 3/4-10 thread: To which I can connect a 1/2" ID hose and funnel when refilling the engine oil:
  6. I'm pretty sure my neighbours don't even know what Stabil is--what I got out was "pinkish", but mostly clear jelly--a nearly perfectly "float bowl" shaped ring (minus the float) of he stuff...
  7. ON my carburettor stuff that sits i generally drain the tank then run 'em 'til they stop. Next give a squirt or two of Marvel Oil from a pump can into the fuel line and crank it over as bit--fresh fuel when 'tis the season and they just pop right off...
  8. This damned ethanol contaminated gasoline they make us buy has a shelf life of about 3 months, unless in a very tightly sealed container¹--and that's here in FL were we have just 10% booze in the gas. On anything with carburettor that has been siting for more than 4 months the first hing to do is rebuild (or at least disassemble and clean) the carburettor. Lat Fall I repaired a number of "no-start" generators for my neighbours that had been improperly stored; they all had nasty jellied masses of pinkish crap in the float bowls. I've not found that any of the commonalty available "fuel stabili
  9. 20-years-old you got your money's worth...
  10. Made this today: It's a tow-bar/eye for the front end: The frame had the perfect place to mount such a thing,--a nice flat-faced robust crossbar with two 10 mm captive nuts: So I used an 11' long piece of 2"x2"x1/4'hot roll angle iron to make a bolt-on towing eye (also good anchor point if using a snatch block for a double-line pull. Painted up and installed: Haven't used it yet but per my calculations it should be good to 12,000 to 15,000 lbs.
  11. Unfortunately registering a UTV and getting a "tag" (Southern speak for license plate) in Florida is not possible as they are specifically excluded from highway use. He only way around this is to get it declared a Low Speed Vehicle which requires the MCO (Manufacturers Certificate of Origin) stating clearly : "This Vehicle Conforms To Federal Regulations Under Title 49 CFR 571.500 Standard N. 500 Low Speed Vehicles". This requirement is stated unambiguously in the Florida Department of Highway Safety and Motor Vehicles (FLDHSMV) (procedures manual TL-63) The MCOs for most ATVS and UTVs do
  12. ^^^Good information^^^ A variable gap spark tester like this one cam detect he issue IslandHopper describes re; The plug firing under atmospheric pressure but not under compression. Set the tester toa 8 to 10 mm gap--most modern ignition systems will fire across a 10 mm gap in free-air, if not the coil is likely weak...
  13. Here's a YouTube video describing disassembly of the front differential, and some info re: how the 4WD solenoid works. THe guy is a hack, working on the floor--in a video presenting removal of the differential he uses a 16 oz. claw hammer.
  14. I neglected to mention that they would also create a -10 % error in the speedometer--I.e. the speedometer displayed value will be 10% less than actual speed..
  15. The switch, wiring, differential servo motor and/or differential gears are bad--repair/replace the bad component(s)... I apologize for the terse response, however it's the best I can do given the information provided. Does it (the front differential or anything related to 4WD make any noise when you operate the switch--KOEF (Key On Engine oFf)? If not, have you checked the 4WD fuse (usually a 3 A device)?

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