2021 Hisun Axis 700 UTV Shift Adjustment ?
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By Phil S
I have a Massimo Buck 450 and last winter I had the snow plough added by my dealer. After about 15 minutes of ploughing the plough went down but would not lift up. Upon inspection, it appears that the winch is permanently in the free-spool. When you try to wind back in the spool just spins. It is out of warranty and upon looking at replacing I am not sure how I would go about it.
Has anyone had similar issues?
Has anyone replaced it with a new winch? is so what model and how was it installed?
Any help is welcomed.
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By Bryan g
We see a lot of the UT400 with shift problems, not going into gear, popping out of gear, grinding etc. There is a bulletin Im sure everyone has saw about adjusting shift cable. That dont always fix it. I went round n round with coleman on couple units. We are a Coleman warranty repair center"AFS Small Engine Repair " I told them shift lever does not have enough travel . No amount of cable adjustment will increase travel . I extended lever with piece on flat iron by 3/4 of inch . This gave shifter enough travel to properly engage into gear completely . Last couple units to come in for this Coleman sent me a modified shift lever, with longer travel . Problem solved! Also , heads up if you get any new unit ,,,go over and check it out, grease all zerks, check air filter for being in backwards, check wiring harnesses for rubbing on rotating parts, brake hose routing , make sure not touching exhaust . These are just few of the more common failures I see .
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By Owenhacker
So I have disassembled and installed a new wet clutch all new bearings, regreased primary and once I got it all back together it starts and dies as soon as I put in gear.. took apart twice to make sure everything is correct. Need help
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By papillion22
I'll start by saying i'm learning as i go & have come a long way, but there are some maintenance issues on my mule sx that must be addressed & i've got nobody around with experience & cannot bring it to a shop.
I've got rolling resistance when i jack up the front wheels. Months ago i thought i was possibly a brake issue but didn't yet have the equip. to pull the wheel hubs or press them back on... but the noise/friction seemed to resolve itself. I just checked up on it because i've got the tools for dealing with the brake system now and i noticed the wheels dont really spin... theres a lot of resistance and i can hear it coming from the front diff. I can't remember if it used to do that before, but i dont think it did. Its not the drive shaft or u-joints, but i've yet to pull them to be certain. it really sounds like its in the front diff. just where the drive shaft connects.
Should the front wheels - when in neutral and in 2wd and no diff. lock - spin freely? Theres too much drag for mine to even go once around. Can anyone point me in a direction? Otherwise its trial and error with cv axles, ball joints, brakes, etc. and i dont have the $ or time for that.
I'm in over my head and really hoping someone can help. I'll try to make a video of whats happening, hopefully the sound will come through well. Maybe that will help diagnose it. Thanks.
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By Dan_Lockwood
If you pay any attention to your UT400, you have probably noticed that the right front wheel tips in at the top a LOT. The left fronts seem to be about right from what I've seen. I look at them all when I'm at different stores just to see if they're all that way, and yes, they all seem to be that way.
There "should" be adjustments on either the ball joints or the inner pivot points, but these are solid, not way to adjust them.
I have the UT400 up on my 2-post lift and the right spindle seems to be around 3-deg tipped in at the top and the left spindle is about straight or maybe half a degree tipped in. This is at full suspension drop, not ride height. I took the shocks off and rotated the spindles from bottom travel to full max up travel, way more than the shocks will allow. The higher the spindle lift, the more tip in there is on both spindles. This is true because of the unequal upper and lower A-arms. It's just the nature of of the dual A-arms and them being unequal in length.
I took the inner pivot 8mm bolts out and inserted a lot smaller 1/4" bolts and pushed the lower A-arm inward and the angle on the spindle decreased. I then took the top inner bolts out and did the same thing, but pulled out instead. This got the spindle equal to angle of camber on the left side. I used the offset in the holes to see how much I need to go on the lower alone. I was also concerned about bottoming out the axle assembly because the spindle centerline will not be a bit closer to the front diff. But as it all turned out, it was not close to bottoming out.
I cut about 1/4" out of the two 1" A-arm tubes as they were welded to the lower ball joint mount casting. I tack welded them back together and trial fit it all together. That seemed to be about right. I took it all back apart and welded it up solid. Now it all looks to match the left side quite well.
Also want to use this in our yard and the stock tires are NOT turf friendly, especially with the solid "spool" rear differential. I found these on Amazon, 25x12-12" and 25x8-12" hard pack race tires as they're called. They're 6-ply and tubeless. The initial probably I had was that the size rating was not even close to the actual size. They said, install and then recheck the diameters and I did. They did get larger, but the rears are more than 1" smaller in diameter than the side wall stamping. Instead of 25", they're 23.75" tall. What I DON'T WANT are shorter tires. I had already purchased the used wheels at 12" to match the original factory diameter, but in hindsight I would now opt for 14" wheels with 4x110mm bolt pattern and would have been able to find a tire in the 27" diameter range a lot easier and cheaper. Live and learn they say.
Here are some pictures of before and after.
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