Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi all.....I have a strange happening with my Massimo Buck 400.   I tried to start it half way through the winter and it wouldn't fire as the battery was low (I should have disconnected the ground before winter), nonetheless it cranked a few times then when I turned the key to shut it off to be dealt with in the spring it kept trying to start itself, no key turned at this point.  

Spring comes and I charge the battery up, but it continues to do the same thing with the machine trying to start itself when no key was inserted.   I suspect it might have to do with the solenoid, or a faulty key switch.   After repeated tries it finally started, and is now functioning properly.  

Does anyone have any idea as to why this might have happened.  

 

 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Popular Now

  • Similar Topics

    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By Hoppy one
      I replaced the stator on our Bennche 500 because it was not charging. It ran as long as you kept the battery charged. I replaced the stator now it’s not firing. The only problem I found was a wire in the new stator for the crank position sensor was in the wrong place in the plug. I switched it around but still no fire. Putting a meter on those wires and cranking the motor showed no voltage from the crank position sensor. Something I did or a bad “new “ part? Thanks for any ideas.
    • By Eman85
      I have been searching and can't find much info on these units. Pretty surprising as every other thing I own I find a lot of info on. Researching for tech info and such it's like no one owns any of these yet I see them everywhere. 
    • By mfitzner
      Cranks after installing a jumper wire to ignition switch to get power but will not start
      Have spark and fuel pump runs
       
    • By Jeff freeman
      I have a Coleman 550.  Was having problems to start with where it would start and then shut off after a couple tries. It would take off and be good. It then got to a point where it would not start at all. I replaced the fuel injection twice the second time I replaced it I noticed a mouse or something had chewed one of the wires that connect the electrical to the fuel injector. . So two-part question first does anybody have a part number for that wire harness?  Second, any other ideas after I fix the wire harness permanently on what could keep it from starting I have gas flow up to the fuel injector.


×
×
  • Create New...