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By Tim n Deb
Riding out today it acted like it ran out of gas, stalled and died and would not start. Towed back to house, New plug added this past month, plenty of oil, getting plenty of gas, battery cranks good. Trys to kick in and starts but doesnt. Two days prior while sitting at a idle it died. Added gas and it started did my ranch chores with it. But just now it stalled out cranks but will not start. Tried to find if fault codes came up on the clock like manual says but not sure I am doing that right. Any and all help apprecated. Thank you
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By Jon Spruill
Hey Guys, I have been chasing a stalling condition for about two weeks now. The bike will crank up and idle fine, then after about 20 seconds it will fall on its face and stall. It happens at both idle and while running at various rpms. You can turn the key off, turn it back on and it will fire right back up without trouble. I have verified spark on both cylinders with a spark tester. I have also added an inline fuel filter, and pulled the injectors to verify proper pulse on each. Things I have replaced - (relearn procedure performed after each component replaced): spark plugs, ECU, relay/fuse box, fuel pump, & throttle position sensor - all with no improvement of the condition. The only warning light I get when the condition occurs is the oil lamp. The bike only has 14 miles. I am at a loss and appreciate any help and suggestions! Thanks
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By Grant
I recently bought an axis 500 and it’s missing a box or something the plug is L shaped I’ve looked through the wiring diagrams and still can’t figure it out. The plug is located right near the battery housing
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By rdborra
I had to remove the relay for the dump bed due to it popping the fuse for main key power. I have tried to find a short but nothing seems to out of normal. I also disconnected the dump motor and switch and still pops the fuse. Also, when the machine is warmed up i get about 5 to 10 of work out of before it stalls. Once I can get it to start again I have to use the choke to keep it running.
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By Tejun
Neighbor rode their Coleman with the park brake apparently not fully released. Needless to say, things got pretty hot and even started smoking and the smoke was definitely gear oil smell. Looks like oil is coming from the area just behind the disc for the park break. Looking at parts diagram, there is an oring behind the nut/washer that attaches the flange to pinion shaft. I'm not finding anything on YT that would help with disassembly. Anyone have some experience with removing rear driveshaft ?
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