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By moonrover
Mine is overheated/burned/melt at connection with its wire connector, parts are ordered to replace both them. This seems to be a common issue, and some of you already replaced it. I right now just connect the wires, so the fan runs all the time whenever the initiation is on, but it's better let fan runs as needed with a working temperature sensor/switch.
Question: Does some coolant come out by removing the switch/sensor from radiator? Or, is the threaded hole all the way inside radiator? If the answer is yes, I want to drain or extract some coolant to make its level below the sensor before replacing it, so I don't make a mess with coolant spilled out
Thank you.
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By Paul409
Have a Hisun 750 only 700hrs 21 model. Never had issues went to start it and there's a clicking sound under the seat I'm assuming it's the started relay. I for the life of me cannot find the starter, is there a way to test the relay.
Thank for any support
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By MJG
Hello,
I found an 08 Renegade for sale and looking to purchase it. I haven’t heard too much about these machines and any insight would be much appreciated. Are they good machines?
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Yankeboy
I bought a 2013 Cub Cadet Volunteer 37BM466D710. It has a LH775 engine in it. Now my issue is I bought it off an online auction and well I got took really hard. There is no CVT/transmission in it at all. There is a complete motor but that's it. Don't even know if the motor is any good. Anyway, I can't seem to find any real helpful information about all the parts missing. The parts diagrams don't seem to really help me. Does anyone have one or have in info or a place for me to get good info from.
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