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By Greg Kilgore
We all know summer is hot inside the cabs of our SXS. So I've rigged up a couple of fans to help cool down the cab.
I didn't want to drill the fan's "support rails" into the ROPS (Roll Over Protection System), aka roll bars. So I used water clamps to hold them in place.
I just need to replace the wires I ran with bigger gauge. Then finish the wiring to switches, relays, and battery. But the hardest part. The actual mounting of the fans is complete. Also just in case anyone plans on doing this. I may have to only use 1 fan in the middle instead on 2. Due the the draw on the battery.
The fans are 12", 12V 80W. So I'm figured they were 6.7 amps apiece. Used the WAVe formula to get unknown values Watts=Amps*Volts then solve for unknown. I know the watts and volts from sticker on fan. So just used above formula to get amps. So a 7 amp fuse should be OK and a 10 amp fuse will be good.
So pulling 14 amps from the battery all day may be too much for the charging system to keep up with. And I haven't even installed the radio yet. So I will have to test and let you know.
See pics below.
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By NicholasNWM09
Hello Everyone,
COOL NEW Product Alert!
A company called NEW Wire Marine or NEW Wire has Badass custom panels for UTV, Buggy/Hunting trucks. From Fully wired switch panels with laser etched rockers with backlights in 5 different colors, to just parts like voltmeters, phone, USB and 12 v chargers. Rockers can be printed, or custom laser etched rockers and they even have sleek labeled pushbuttons. They are a first-class company with a great knowledgeable staff and outstanding customer service. Switches are based on 12v or 24v circuits and they also have marine grade wire and connectors, which is perfect for waterproofing your system!
Go check them out!
Check out the websites : https://newwiremarine.com/ and https://rockerswitchpros.com
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Greg Kilgore
At 185 hours while do a little riding noticed using a little more fuel that the trip should have taken and running a little rough. Thought it might be time to clean the air filter.
I while back, I bought a filter kit for another sxs I had but never installed. I was going to do the snorkel thing. Anyway, while I was as cleaning the air filter for the Axis 500. I mocked up this filter kit and wanted to know if anyone could give a reason why this wouldn't work.
I plan on removing the air box completely. Moving the PCV valve hose to the side of the large hose going to the throttle body instead of the way it is now. Now it connects to the air box. There is already a hole in that hose and it just has a 90° fitting on it and then a plug.
Then route some pipe thru the tunnel that the front drive shaft uses. Then up under the hood and mount the new filter there. I even bought a hood scoop to use. See pics below.
Here is the way it is from the factory.
Notice the hose plugged into the top of the air box. That is for the PCV valve. It provides suction for the crankcase to keep from blowing seals. You can't see in the pic, but there is a hose that connects to the crank case. That hose connects to a box with 2 hoses coming off. One of those hoses goes down to under the sxs to let any oil that is sucked up drip on the ground. The other hose connects to the air box.
Here is the passenger side of the air box. Notice the 90° nipple on the large hose running between the air box and the throttle body.
Here is a pic of the kit I got off Amazon.
Here are some pics with the air box removed, PCV hose relocated, and the hose coming up into the hood area thru the tunnel that the front drive shaft uses.
I will probably have to relocate the radiator overflow jug. I know I will probably have to use solid pipe instead of that plastic flex stuff. And will have to keep it clear of the drive shaft. The only issue I see it the air coming in thru the PVC hose is not filtered. It also could cause more suction on the crankcase and cause the sxs to use some oil. Those little square boxes on top to the throttle hose are empty. I may have to connect the PCV hose to that and add a filter in that square box.
But other than that. Does anyone know of any reason this shouldn't work?
Once I get it installed I can close off the holes in the engine cover that is currently uses by the air box. That will help keep noise and heat out of the cab in the summer.
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