KIOTI UTV SxS Forum
This is for all of you KIOTI UTV, SxS (Side by Side) owners. Discussions about KIOTI UTV specific topics including K9 Series.
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Latest Posts
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Yeah, from that document I did the figure 3 balanced charging as opposed to the figure 3 "perfectly" balanced charging. While conceptually I get that the "perfectly" is a little better, it is also more complicated to set up since you have to work out the resistances of the cable runs and any connections. In this case just balanced charging is good enough. Another thing to keep in mind is that it's a bigger issue with "dumb" lead-acid batteries. Each of the new LiFePO4 batteries has their own smart BMS to help manage balances, plus parallel in general helps balance out batteries vs the serial setup Hisun used with the awful Discover 6V batteries. I did use equal length brand new 1/0 AWG cables for my connections except for re-using the two final cables that connected to the motor controller. -
I bought a 2017 Stampede 900 last fall that was new, old stock with less than 5 hours on it thinking that I would be getting a relatively trouble free UTV as compared to buying a used Polaris or CanAm, or Honda, etc. It's been a little quirky, but reliable. What I thought was just a minor issue with this model, the difficulty in shifting between R, N, L, H, etc., was just a characteristic of this model is now a big problem. I had to climb two very steep trails to get to the upper meadow of our hunting property, which seemed to stress the UTV more than usual since I was carrying some lumber to work on a platform for a hunting blind, and when I went to shift into park, I felt something give and it would not shift out of low, but it did move up into high gear. I couldn't get it to shift at all at that point and the shifter felt mushy for lack of a better word. I was able to get it down to the lodge and when I investigated, I discovered that the straight, metal tube portion of the shift cable had bent to almost 90 degrees (see pics). I'm positive that it had already had some deformation that had happened previously and it had the right amount of resistance to bend to the point where it was unusable. I have two questions: 1. I suspect that there must be some other issues that makes this UTV difficult to shift, and I'm wondering if this is a common problem and if someone could enlighten me on what could cause this to be difficult to shift? 2. Have any of you had this happen and if so, how difficult is it to replace the shifter cable? Any other advice is welcome, this is the first UTV that I've ever owned, so I don't know much about working on these or maintaining them. I'm relatively capable when it comes to working on my own vehicles in general, and I'm not afraid to take things apart and get my hands dirty. Thanks in advance for any insight, I'll be traveling most the day so I won't get a chance to look at replies until this evening. -
By Silent3923 · Posted
Been waiting over a month and a half for a transmission from bobcat, they claim the polaris transmission is different. Can anyone verify that??? -
I'm also going to need to buy new cables. just finished removing the old batts. For my diagram, I was trying to mimic the perfectly balanced charging setup listed in this document (previously linked on this thread): https://www.solar-electric.com/lib/wind-sun/Iota_balanced_charging.pdf After removing the old batts and seeing how things are setup, I think I'll likely just end up doing the "balanced" charging. It sounds like that's what you did? -
It will probably work, and you may never run into a problem, but generally I've seen that you want equal length cables so the resistance is the same, and for parallel either run from one to the next (e.g. B-A-D-C for negative in your diagram and vice versa for positive) or run them all to a bus bar. The way you have it set up, some are connected directly. With in your example, the negative terminal at B being sort of a bus bar, but then C is connected to D. My four batteries are set up in the same trays you show, and I did the Motor Controller (MC)-B-A-D-C for negative, and MC-C-D-A-B for positive. I kept the Delta Q charger, which charges through the motor controller, so I didn't have the extra connection to a charger, but again I would connect that to the last in line of the set; either the same as the motor controller, or perhaps the opposite ends since the terminals can get a little crowded.
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