bruhaw
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Posts posted by bruhaw
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I like the Renegade gearing with 30" tires. I have the SB fuel controller but have done no porting or other engine mods. Gearing is better for hill climbing as I don't have to be in as low of a gear. I had it out a couple of weeks ago and I was doing 60+ on a fire trail and my rev limiter hit so we can still get to pretty good top end. I had put on the SB controller before I did the gearing and found with 30" tires I didn't have the power and climbing I thought I should with the larger tires. I then went back to running 27" and those seemed fine and after I did the Renegade gearing I switched to the 30". Then I got my mid range power back and had good top end. Then by accident about a month or so ago i figured out when I installed the SB controller on my T4 that one of the fuel injector wires was actually not plugged all the way into the clip and thus it was not firing. That cylinder was black on the piston and when I pulled the wire or fuel injector the engine didn't idle any differently. Basically I was running on 3 cylinders and I don't know how it didn't run like crap but it ran OK. Even at last years Jamboree it was just 3 cylinders. Looking back this was probably my power problem with the 30" tires and I know I was compensating some for it because I had the SB fuel controller programmed pretty rich. I also have a air fuel gauge so I know I was running it rich. Either way I did the gearing and am sticking with it. Also did Lenny's kits and they made a world of difference in the free play on the stock diffs. Tough part of all of this is finding Renegade ring and pinions. Thanks to Rocmoc for the one he sold me at last years Jamboree and for Lenny letting me know there was one on Ebay. Haven't seen any since and only other way is to by the whole Renegade diff. and that ends up costing a little more. Looking forward to next week at the Jamboree.
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2Scoops - what are you using for a clutch. Have you upgraded because if you climb then you are probably smoking that clutch some. Just wanted to see what you are using? Did you upgrade to the Kevlar package from Silver Bullet?
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Same with me. I know if we get stopped we can get out of it because of the 1100CC but why take a chance. Went Simpson half helmets and although I don't want to wear them it is better than getting hassled. Yes CA needs the money and depending on where you are riding they will pull you over. I was in Ocotillo Presidents day and they were not citing but warning. I rode around some without a helmet and with a helmet. Went by a ranger without and he didn't do anything. Just depends on where you are. Still a waste as those Simpson half helmets won't do much but they get you by the dumb law.
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Looks like we picked a good spot then. I thought you might like it. My clearance in the motorhome isn't that low so I would think I could get in there. Is the trail real rocky or just a lot of bumps to it. Looking forward to it.
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Lenny - that is the main road back to the Desert Bar that we discussed going to. It is about 4-5 miles away from the Castle Rocks Shores campground across from the gas station / market so it is a little ways away. It is closer to the city of Parker. Tom's house is about 2-3 miles away from Cienega road which Kinarfi gave a map of. Did you have a chance to go check this area out yet. I know it was around this time so wanted to see what you came up with. I plan on bringing my motorhome and trailer at this time to stay with everyone as I could just stay at Tom's house but probably not.
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We have changed the campsite from La Paz to a camping area right across the street from the trailhead so we just have to go across the street and we are riding. So, yes we will be good. So, Jbender we would expect you to be there now.
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Call Casey at JMC as well if you cannot find the parts you are looking for locally. He definitely can help you and knows his stuff. 480-545-1693
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Kinarfi - thanks for the video and advice on alignment. You too Lenny. Also, liked the music you had playing. Good tunes.
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Posted this during this past summer. Nice thing about these heims joints is that you can lubricate them as they come with a zert fitting. I grease them pretty much after every outing and no squeaks anymore. They work well and I am happy with them. Pricing is very good as well.
Posted 31 July 2012 - 08:09 PM
http://www.vxb.com/p...earings/CTGY/HR
I replaced all of my heims joints including the tie rod ones which are smaller and use a needle style zert fitting. All of the other heims joints have the regular standard zert fitting. Mine were squeaking all the time and once I replaced them all - no more squeaking and I can grease after every outing if need be. I tried the rubber boot covers but they kept binding up and tearing so I don't and can't use them. Lenny was able to get them to work on his and I got the idea from him at the jamboree but no luck on mine. Either way they do get dirtier now but I can wipe off and just grease again. See link above. The ones we use are all right hand thread and16mm for all the larger ones and 12mm for the tie rods. POS16 and POS12 are the part numbers. Not too expensive either and well worth getting rid of that damn squeaking!
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One other item is that you have to wear helmets if it is under 1000CC. All occupants of vehicle. I am going to wear them even though we are at 1100CC just so I don't get pulled over. I am sure they will be enforcing it. Why give any ranger or sheriff a reason to stop you. They don't know we are above 1000CC.
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Can you send out the link Kinarfi?
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I have had no problems with mine at all. No shut down, no other issues. So far so good and quite a few miles on it.
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Kinarfi - I can remove my glass windshield within a couple of minutes because I used quick disconnects that Lenny sells with his windshields. 3 on each side. I used automotive safety glass mounted inside of 1/4 aluminum with square bars of aluminum welded at the top and bottom below the glass to give it support from flexing at all. Only thing I would have done different is not covered the whole front of the buggy. I have a T-4 so I don't get as much of the dust getting pulled through but I know a lot of the T-2 guys have said they had to put holes in the bottom to allow air flow. You could alter the shape of the windshield and allow for flow through the passenger side of the vehicle. I posted pictures on the gallery. Believe there are a few of them along with photos of the disconnect knobs. Also, windshield is not that heavy so no problems there.
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I got bearings from Casey a couple months ago and had the same problem. I didn't have any preload at all and did have some play in the wheel. Not nearly as much as you Kinarfi but a little. I ended up taking one hub and all the bearings to a friend who does auto repair and has a machine shop. He took the bearings apart and machined the inner races after making a holding tool so that everything was done with some precision. So, yes you can take them apart with no problems. We put one in the hub and did have preload so I ended up having him install them in all the hubs. He had one axle and was able to check everything there before I went ahead and had them all done. I gave Casey feedback and so did my mechanic and I think JMC ended up getting the next batch of bearings already machined so that this would not have to be done. Talked with him yesterday about these posts and it sounded like they fixed the problem from the previous bearings they were selling. I asked my guy if the bearing was loose in the hub and he said that it wasn't too loose or tight for that matter. He said he really didn't need a big press to get them in or out but that they just didn't slide in either. I asked him about loctite and he said I didn't need it for my hubs but if there was some looseness it would help that for sure. I also talked with Casey about replacement hubs and he does have front and rear for around $75-$80 dollars it sounds like. I do have a little play when rocking the tire on the top pushing it in toward the vehicle and back out but it is very minimal and I am running 30" tires so I don't know if I can every get that little bit of play out of there. I have the preload and my bearings aren't going to spin in the hub so there should not be a problem. I thought going to tapered bearings was a great idea but it ended up being a little more work than what I had planned as I had to pull the hubs and remove bearings twice. Either way i am OK now and hopefully will never have to replace them again.
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No vacuum ports at all on the fuel controller. Best thing to do is call Dobeck Performance who makes the fuel controllers and they can help you dial it in. You may have to change your fuel pressure as well as I had to. If fuel pressure is too high then it affects the fuel controller. I had to turn down my fuel pressure to get the fuel controller to be able to do its job. If you call Dobeck just tell them you purchased a fuel controller through Silver Bullet and they will help you with it.
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Here is the link for the thermostat housing adapter on ebay. You can also get the gasket.
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You can buy an adapter that goes between the thermostat housing and engine block. The renegade engine has this insert for some reason and the trooper does not. You will have to pull the hose barb out and then tap that hole for the adapter fitting for the gauge. This way you are not going into the engine block. Search this forum and you find my posts on this. I felt the way you do and put it an autometer gauge and feel much more comfortable now. EBay has the adapter at least I saw it a week or so ago.
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The DB gauge is the one I went with and it works well. No issues at all except hooking it up can be a pain in the ass. Need to really look at the wires you are hooking up and where they go or don't go as the instructions suck and the customer service at Innovate out here in Irvine, CA sucks even worse. Guy is an a-hole at Innovate to say the least and he is their customer service. I ended up talking to the tech guy at Dobeck as they are very familiar with the Innovate air/fuel gauges and how they are set up. To get the Fuel programmer dialed in correctly I actually called the tech guy at Dobeck while out riding and dialed it in. Might have to adjust fuel pressure some and will have to play with the fuel controller some but he will walk you through it. You won't get 11HP but I did notice some increase and oddly enough sound difference as well once it was dialed in. Fuel economy will suffer as it does use the fuel. Without a gauge you just don't know what you are running and thus you almost have to go with a fuel/air gauge to make sure you are set.
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Goindeep - what is the price on the manifold? Are you selling them to others or did you just do a couple of them for you and friends?
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Bad info on the last post. It is a roller bearing not tapered. Also, the first post which had a bearing for 19.90 looks wrong after looking at it again. Both front and rear bearings are exactly the same on the Troopers. Casey at JMC is waiting for a shipment of tapered bearings and I would think he would have them in a few weeks. Have to call him and check.
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Look on ebay. Fixes steering looseness. I put one on and it did help a lot. Just tightens everything up in terms of the slop and play in that steering box. Another engineering feat by Lenny.
A 2013 Spring Jamboree March 8 -- 10
in Joyner UTV SxS Forum
Posted
Remember we are camping across from Castle Rock Shores not La Paz. So you will have to go towards Havasu on the highway from La paz campground and we will be right behind the last chance for gas station as you leave the Parker area and are going to Havasu. My cell is 714-865-2907. Thanks, Bruce