bruhaw

See link below on T4 on Craigslist. Talked with Casey at JMC on a post about Lannmarker the other day. Owner of JMC said the picture of the Trooper T4 on their site was one of the originals that they cobbled together and it looked good but was not well built. They used the T2 side skirts for front and rear. This one looks like it as well and it also has the same aluminum top with rear flare on it. Could be an original. You could own a piece of history or piece of crap depending on how you look at it. I would choose the latter.

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/mcy/3027054833.html

I used 1/4" aluminum and total cost was about $100 for the sheet metal.

It was a full sheet of aluminum that I had the inside cut out and any good glass shop will then make it to fit the opening. As far as driving - yes in dusty conditions and I do know that dust will get in the cab if you don't have the venting. On both sides of the windshield there is about an inch opening which I am hoping is enough to prevent some of that. The lexan windshield I had on it prior fully enclosed the front and it still wasn't that bad. The small openings should help some and If need be I can add some holes but I don't have a lot of area around the windshield to go 4" that is for sure. Also, I put some more pictures up in the gallery and a couple of them show the clamp very well. It does have rubber inside that wraps around the tubing. They are very similar to the ones on Extreme Metal Products for sure. No hinges on the windshield. What you are seeing is hinges for the front hood.

Here is one picture of the windshield and mounts.

I just made one within the past two weeks. 1/4 aluminum 48" length and forget what height but it goes up to light bar/roll bar and had to cut out notches on each side for the light bar tabs. Then I had someone plasma cut the inside about 2 1/2" inside each edge. Went to glass shop and had them put in automotive glass with tinting that they sized up for the opening I had made. Total for this was about $250 or so as plasma cutting was free from someone I know along with welding 1/2 square aluminum at the top and bottom for rigidity. Glass covers almost the entire front and then the best part is I used Lenny's windshield mounts that came with the Lexan winshield I bought from him. I had four - two on each side and ordered four more at $11 a piece. They sent those to me and I put two more on each side for a total of 3 quick release mounts on each along with two up top. I did not drill out for the two up top yet but tightened around the roll bar and pushed up against frame of windshield. Lexan windshield just got too scratched up and dirty. Very tough to keep clean and see out of when riding into sunlight as well. Lenny, Ricksrb and Tom all had glass windshields at the Jamboree and that pushed me over the edge to finally do it. The nice thing now is that I do have a quick release with 3 knobs on each side thanks to Lenny's engineering. It came out very nice and I am extremely pleased with it. No issues putting it together and the nice thing is that I can remove quickly if I wanted to. Will send pictures later.

If you take out the battery tray and put in a battery box in its place you can fit a group size 24. I put in an Optima with battery box in that space. Doesn't seem like it will fit but it will. Ricksrb did it and I followed suite. Toughest thing is getting out the existing battery tray. It is welded in there surprisingly well. Otherwise you could just take it in and they will get something close. Can be a little smaller but not bigger as again it would not fit into the tray.

Lenny - yes I am up for the ride in the fall for sure. I still think I would have to buy the whole Renegade differential in talking with a few of the suppliers. Not sure if Klung would sell just the pinion itself but will check. I also need to figure out if I have the front or rear ring and pinion as I am not sure which one it is. Don't want to have two of the same that is for sure. Anyway to figure out which one Rocmoc sold me? If I can get one and get it all figured out I probably would change the gearing out as I am going to pull the diffs next month and have the kits put in.

Biggest problem with the 30's is it will kill your low end power. Takes a lot to get those bigger tires and wheels moving especially in sand/sand wash. I put 30"s on mine and used them for 20 miles and am going to put them up for sale now. I wanted the ground clearance as well but it is a pretty tough trade off and so I went back to 27's. If you want the 30's they are up for sale. 30X12X14 and 30X10X14 Mudlite XXL's. New $850 on them.

Lenny and I discussed at the Jamboree a few weeks back and I actually bought some different gears for the Trooper off the Renegade. Still need to locate the rear gears as I only was able to acquire a front set. Unless i can get a rear sooner than later I will sell the 30" tires.

Rear fenders are the same. I was going to buy fenders, small rockers and large rocker panels from him. He has another Trooper and decided to keep everything as spares. Unless something has changed he is not selling them anymore. This was about 3 weeks ago or so.

Call Casey at JMC for the thermostat and timing belt. He should have both in stock. I don't believe either of these have been matched up with any OEM parts so you won't be able to locate at a parts store. The drive belt you can definitely get as it is a Gates belt and has a part number on it. Casey's number is 480-545-1693.

I have two front if it doesn't work out with Lowgear, let me know.

Go with the ITP Bajacross which is an 8 ply tire. Good all terrain tire and will last. Look it up and read the reviews and info on it. Only up to size 27 I think maybe 28 at the most. Very good tire though if you are looking for thickness and all terrain.

Bob - what website did you go to for purchases from Klung?

Click on the back design of the T-shirt for a laugh! The above link only shows the front but below it you will see a small icon for the back design that you can click on and read.

Shirts for the next Jamboree. Especially after the event is over.

http://www.cafepress.com/+joyner_therapy_ringer_t%2C241045788?cmp=pfc--ca--us--126--241045788&utm_term=241045788&utm_content=ChannelAdvisor_US_shopping&utm_campaign=Ringer%2BT&utm_medium=productfeed&sourcecode=affiliate&utm_source=CSE&pid=5185601

I can tell you that they were small. Casey at JMC would know the exact size or I can measure my friends. His stopping power is quite a bit less than mine and he has complained about it since first getting it. I haven't driven it so I can't say but I don't have any problems with mine. Looking at them sitting together you can definitely see a pretty big difference. We both have T4's so they are heavier than the T2's. If you want measurements I can get them or just call Casey tomorrow. You can upgrade by getting later model rotors along with brackets and that will at least give you some better braking.

As Lenny mentioned to me over the weekend for every hour of riding he does he spends 8 hours working on it and modifying it. He truly enjoys it that is for sure. I am just appreciative that he shares his knowledge with all of us because it sure makes fixing our problems a helluva lot easier! We lost another contributor in Rocmoc because he sold his. He was at the Jamboree for just a few hours with his new purchase a Dune Buggy with a VW engine. That is no fun to work on compared to a Joyner and you know it Rocmoc. That is just too easy. Our Joyners are what makes us not sleep at night trying to figure out what the hell is wrong with them! You know you want to get another one after seeing us all this weekend. LOL

Well I was there through it all and we did have a great time. Up until the very end of the ride on Sunday which was the last ride of the weekend. Coming back and basically in the campground I could see Lenny's drive shaft flopping around and just figured from one of the hard hits he took it popped out. We did a pretty high speed run that morning and that was the final dagger so to speak. He hobbled it back from when I saw it probably a 1/4 mile or less from and figured it would be not too much of an issue to get it another 15 feet to the trailer but that wasn't in the cards. It could have been way worse with it either happening on Thursday when he got there or when he was doing 65 down a wash. Luck was on his side because we got all the riding in that weekend and had a great time. If this happened to most of us it would be taking it to a good welding shop/fabricator to fix and costing some money but not for Lenny. He is the welding shop and fabricator and he will have it fixed better than it is stock that is for sure. His ride is a sweet one as it has the power and suspension we all would like to have. Just hanging out and talking with him was the highlight of the weekend for me. I can ride and go hard any weekend but to talk with him and see what he has done was worth making it to the Jamboree. We just need more Joyners there next year! Rick - thanks for setting it all up and taking extra time in advance to map trails and set up the accomodations there. You did a great job and we appreciated it! Lenny - thanks for all of your time talking Joyner with me and showing me some of the mods that can be made. Lenny, Tom and I talked and we will be getting together probably in the fall in or around Lake Havasu or Parker if anyone wants to be a part of that it will be posted. Since that is in Rick's back yard I know he will be there and I know Casey from JMC wants to go so there will be a few of us.

Looking for a Renegade Ring & Pinion if anyone has one please let me know. Don't need the whole differential but that depends on if I can find the ring and pinion by itself. I may have to go with the whole diff. Thanks

They are exactly the same measurements and you get 4 for the same price as 1 from Summit. $29.95 gives you 2 rights and 2 lefts. I am a mile away from their place and will go down and see if I can get 4 rights instead. It wouldn't surprise me if they sold these to Summit. Either way half the price even if you had to buy 4 kits to get 8 right hand joints. $119.80 for all of them and $239.60 through Summit for 8 of them.

This is the actual link. http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit217

Just click on this one. Other link I sent had the product hidden on the lower left hand side.

Lenny - would these work as replacements. They are 16mm X 2 with zert fitting installed. I know you have worked with them in the past and ultimately replaced/upgraded but for exact replacements would these do the job? I have one that is squeaking quite a bit. Not sure if you have an old one you can measure or not. I have not removed any of mine at all.

Not a link but just copy and paste in browser. Thanks

http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?

Rocmoc - sent you a PM on pinion gear

Again, I would check your local starter and alternator rebuild guys. I had my alternator bearing start making some noise as dirt just goes right into them and he just put in new bearing and checked everything else. $20 bucks and it looks good as new. He did the starter the previous week for $40 and that was completely rebuilt.

Lowgear - sent you a PM