bruhaw
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Posts posted by bruhaw
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OOOOOOOh great, that sounds like a good deal, Thanks buddy?
I like plumbers plan since you are so greedy!!!
Seriously Plumber has plan, that would be great.
I would be in for one too. Keep us posted. Thanks
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Casey's number at JMC is 480-545-1693
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Well since I just got at the end of 2010 I didn't have time to do anything on it. So I will give the 2011 and 12
2011
King Shocks - made a world of difference in ride. Took a 30 mile ride before I bought it and had them changed before the next time I went out.
Snorkel / KN filter - just did after reading posts on this board. Thanks to everyone there. Did compression check to see if any damage was done. 150 on all cylinders so looking good
Autometer temp gauge - figured it out. Had posted on this but looks like no one else has put in an aftermarket so had to figure it out with the help of Casey at JMC. Need to run only one wire to Autometer sending unit. Have to use put in a new one as the stock wire doesn't let the gauge read correctly. Needed to use adapter between thermostat and engine block as you still need to use the stock sender for other engine functions. Gauge looks good and is accurate. Didn't trust the stock gauge. Reading a little over 180 and it stays there and doesn't fluctuate.
Autometer oil gauge - again didn't trust the stock gauge
Windshield from Pacific UTV - nice unit.
ITP Tires on stock wheels. Was just tearing up the stock Chinese tires
Crow 5 Point Harness Belts - got tired of the reverse engineered Joyner belts. I feel safe now with the Crow. Don't loosen up and much easier to put on.
Canvas top
2012
Power Steering
Something else will come along I am sure.
Looking forward to going on some rides with Ricksrb
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Lenny, thanks for the info. Then the next question would be which of the 3 wires going into the current sensor should i use. I looked at them and none match exactly with the wires connected to the gauge itself. Would be easy if there was as an exact match but there isn't. Any ideas!
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You shouldn't need to change the wiring but you will have to use the sensor that came with the gauge.
LEnny
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Just replaced my ignition switch a week ago with a decent unit from Autozone. All you need is a 12 volt test light to check each wire before you pull them off. Has an accessory, ignition on, and then start. After wiring I just put liquid electrical tape over the connections to help waterproof it. Pretty easy to do and was told to junk the OE unit and not buy another. Just get an aftermarket as everyone has said.
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Has anyone installed an aftermarket electrical temp gauge that works with stock wiring? I was having problems with inaccurate readings (fluctuations) so I bought an Autometer electric gauge and wired up using stock wiring. The gauge works but is reading a little over 100 degrees and that was with the engine cold right after I fired it up. Got all the way up to almost 250. So, I put the stock gauge back on and it read correctly - right around 194-200. I then put the new Autometer back on and just hooked up the ignition and ground and it read nothing. Put the sending unit wire on and the reading was still high. Unfortunately, I will have to get adapters to get the new Autometer sending unit to work as the adapters they give you won't work and the sending unit itself is just a bit too small to fit. I was hoping it might work as I put in an Autometer oil pressure gauge and didn't have to buy any fittings. The sending unit actually screwed right into the block and it was easy. So, any ideas on what I can do with the stock wiring or am I destined to running a new wire along with getting adapters to get this to work. Autometer gauge is part#5837 which is 2 5/8" and I will have to round out the hole in the dash some more to get it to fit nicely.
What changes did you make to your Joyner in 2010 & what are you going to to in 2011?
in Joyner UTV SxS Forum
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Speaking of oil pressure, what is normal. I run about 75psi at higher rpm and 25psi at idle. Thoughts?? Also, did a compression check the other day to get a baseline. Have 650 miles on it and with 3-4 cranks on a cold motor it was at 150 psi on each cylinder.