bruhaw

Perfect. I will give it a try tonight and let you know. Thanks for all of your input Lenny, I am crossing my fingers that does the trick and I have NO more questions.

Lenny - From what I have read we have 3 relays in the fuse box and they are fuel pump, fan and engine. Not sure which relay that starter solenoid wire would go to. Should I just change out all the relays and if so can I just match them up at an auto parts store. I could do that or what I am thinking about doing is running a wire directly from the starter ignition switch to the new relay 85 and just leaving it at that. The old starter wire going to the relay behind the seat would then be dead which is fine. Whatever relay it is going to now must be working because everything else seems fine. Fan, fuel pump, efi, etc. What route should I go with. New wire or try new relay?

I went ahead and used the new wire going to the starter solenoid and disconnected from the relay and went straight to 12 volt power and it turns over. So, it seems like the original wire going to the solenoid could be the problem. Now the question is how I run a new wire and where it goes. Tracing down the solenoid wire would take a good deal of time for sure.

Thanks for the help Lenny - I really think there is something wrong with the wire from the ignition switch back. I have 12 volts coming out but when I turn the key I get nothing at terminal 85 or at the starter solenoid lead on the starter itself which makes sense as if there is nothing from terminal 85 I won't have anything going back to the starter. I even hooked up the solenoid wire back directly last night and still nothing. Does the wire from the ignition switch go directly to the solenoid or does it go somewhere prior to getting to the starter solenoid. I don't know about the original relay, didn't know I had one. I almost took a wire and went directly from the ignition switch wire back to terminal 85 or even to the starter solenoid itself but didn't as I wanted to make sure I am ok with doing that and not going to short something out. The relay is brand new so that is not the problem. I double checked the wiring with your instructions and others so it is correct.

If I keep at it I might figure it out. I know that the starter will engage as I jumpered from the solenoid to the battery terminal on the starter post and it will kick it over. Narrowing it down some at least. Almost done for the night so I don't think I will figure it out now.

One final thing that I elimated is that there is 12 volts coming out of the starter switch when the key is turn all the way in the starting position so power is getting out of the switch but how far back I do not know. At least that elimates the switch which already had been replaced but wanted to make sure.

Well I found the answer to the clicking as it is the new power steering control module that is clicking on and off as I turn the key all the way to start. So, maybe I am not missing anything up front. Still no clicking in the back from the starter. Tempted to pull it again and see what is happening. A number of months ago that is all I did and when I had it just sitting there it would kick out. Then I put back in and it started. Don't know why but it did. Could there be a short somewhere between the old solenoid wire? Very hard to trace in the loom that is for sure. Any thoughts on how to test what is happening?

Okay. Did everything that was explained and it all went well. Wired up relay just as explained above and all is correct. 12 volt coming into relay and 12 volt going to starter. Wired original solenoid wire to relay and grounded. No power to solenoid wire coming out of relay when I turn the key to start. All it does is click. Took off front hood to see what was clicking and really can't seem to tell where it is coming from but it just clicks up front and not at the solenoid. Is there a switch that I am missing up there that could be the problem? What am I missing here?

Kinarfi and Lenny helped me out with wiring up a relay this morning. Going to do it and see what happens. I had mine tested at Autozone and they have to put in what the model of the car that starter works with or on. In my case they used a Toyota Camry which was similar in electrical specs. It passed on all 3 tests they do. I guess my question is if it tests fine on their tester could it still be intermittant when installed. Brushes bad or something like that where it could work at times and sometimes not? I am going to do the relay and hope that solves everything. Yes, you can have them rebuilt as I don't think you can find any exact replacement at least very easily. If I still have the problem I am going to one of my starter/alternator accounts that rebuilds and just have them replace everything for me and would hope that solves any problems once and for all. Going with the relay first as even if I get it rebuilt it could still give me the same intermittant problems as before so I don't know if that is the answer either.

I too installed a unit a while back. It is Ipod/Mp3 player and it has 4 speakers and is universal mount very similar to the VDP. Nice thing is it is completely waterproof so any water while driving or getting washed won't affect it More money though. I think it was about $550. Unit is made by SSV Works out of Agoura Hills, CA

Will do.

Got it. Thanks Lenny!

Just saw your reply Lenny. That was simple as I had just looked at a Bosch relay online so I have an idea of what you were talking about already. Now it is just getting the relay and wiring it up. Kinarfi - I should be good now and thanks for the help again. You too Lenny. Hopeful this will solve my intermittant problem.

Kinarfi. Thanks for the reply. Pictures would definitely help. It sounds like there are four terminals. Two are for the relay coils. One is the old wire going to the solenoid the other being a ground wire that will need to be made up. Then on the other two terminals there will be the battery power, either off the starter or direct from battery and then the other will be a new #12 wire going from the relay terminal to the solenoid. So, 4 wires in all - right? Pictures or a schematic would be ideal. Appreciate the help.

Well it looks like I am having the same intermittant starting problems as others have had. I did have some problems last year and I changed out the ignition switch and thought I had solved it but it looks like I didn't. In the past it seemed like when it was just cold it would not start but now it doesn't matter what the air temp outside is. I pulled the starter today and had it tested and it comes out testing fine. I did notice the bendix was a little worn and looks like it might not be engaging all the way. Flywheel teeth are completely fine. When the problem happens it just doesn't seem to kick the bendix out at all. I ended up having some more problems because I hooked up a ground to the power side of the starter and forgot one wire but with some help from Ricksrb ended up figuring it all out and put it back together. Without one of the leads that goes to the starter the fan and fuel pump will not cycle. I didn't have that hooked up when I first put everything back together and I thought I had done some damage because I had a quick spark when i turned on the isolator due to having the ground hooked up to the power lead on the starter. Figured out the ground wire and noticed i forgot one of the leads and once I had it all together it cycled correctly and then started. But I am worried about having the starting problems again so I was wondering Kinarfi and Charlie if you did use a 2 post relay. I didn't see a reply from Kinarfi and didn't see a post back on whether or not you got it working correctly Charlie. So any help on solving this would be appreciated. I don't think it is a starter problem at this point but rather what you have said in terms of the wiring issue. If I understand correctly you would take the solenoid wire off the starter and use that wire on one leg of the relay. Then you would run a jumper wire from the battery side of the starter to the relay and then a wire from the relay back to the solenoid leg of the starter. So three wires to the relay but are you connecting the jumper wire and solenoid wire to the same leg of the relay and thus using a 2 post relay? Thanks again Rick for the assistance today!

Best thing I ever did to my t4 was to put Kings on it. Ride Is so much better. I had stock on it for 50 miles on a test ride and changed them immediately. 2k but a great investment if you like a smoother ride. Power steering was 2nd best modification.

Gumball, do you still have it up for sale? I have a friend who might be interested.

You can get a replacement belt at Autozone for $6.00 and change. I had a squeal and changed it out and it solved that problem. I had squealing and adjusted it a number of times and used belt dressing and it just kept coming back. Just take in the stock belt and they can take the numbers of it and get you a replacement. I believe it is a Gates belt that is stock which is hard to believe but true as it is printed right on it. Even if it doesn't end up being the belt it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to have a spare.

Thanks for the info, I'll give him a call.

Another source at least for the rear bearing, not sure about the front, is Casey at JMC Motors 480-545-1693. I know they have the rear bearings at $50 or so. They are the tapered roller bearings which don't need the grease seal. If Silver Bullet doesn't have them this would be a good second source if you need to get it quickly.

Well thanks to Rick I have power steering now. Before we started I had to have Super ATV send the right u-joint as they sent two u-joints with spline and shaft ends and for our installation you need one of the u-joint's to have spline ends on both. The u-joint they have is a 24 spline which is actually more like a 32 but they call it a 24 spline. It is because it is split that there are actually on 24 splines you can count. It works so that is all that matters. They had to overnight to me as the kit they originally sent for $560.00 now didn't have it in there. They do send a flat piece of steel that is cut out and drilled for the power head. Won't do much for our installation at all.

Now for the installation. Rick made double of everything he did so all we had to do was bolt up the bracket he made to the firewall and use the steering shaft he put together that ends up sliding over the existing smaller diameter steering shaft. Cut the existing shaft about 4 inches and then slide it over and bolt up the u-joint. Wired everything up and the unit worked fine. No adjustments needed to be made at all except lining up the steering wheel. It made a world of difference on asphalt so I know it will be even that much easier on dirt. Very pleased.

So, thank you Rick for all your help on this one in taking time out of your day to come over and help install and making the brackets and shaft adapter. I owe you.

You should be about 150psi. Normal atmospheric pressure is say 15psi and your compression ratio is about 10.5:1 This gives 157.5psi.

Lenny

I ran mine a few weeks ago just to have a baseline down the road. Has 620 miles on it and compression was 150PSI in all cylinders. Tested twice on each cylinder with about 3-4 cranks on each cylinder with all the plugs removed.

Yes, nice install, I kept mine close to the gear box so I didn't have to change my box for clothes and tools that is under the hood, I'll take and post some new photos today now that it all painted are has been run for a while. Your's looks a little easier to install, would you take a few more photos of your mountings and did you have to cut your steering shafts?

Good job, Rick

Kinarfi

PS, still waiting parts so I can do the more power modification. I will keep you informed!

Just wanted to let everyone know that they have upped the price to $560.00 so a 40% increase in a few weeks. They said it was a trial at that price and now the bracket and shaft come with it. No discounts. Not too happy but what can I do. Asked to have them exclude those parts but they won't.

I would also want complete unit. I don't have knowledge or tools to build it. If I hire someone to fabricate the stuff it would probably cost as much or more. With them doing it I know it should be right.

Complete package for me too. That makes 3 of us.

If it's one with a float on the end of a wire, You can cut and bend the wire to work in the range that you need. I used one out of a Dodge pickup that way and it worked great. Was able to use the same stock gauge.

Lenny

The only thing you need to worry about are the ohms. Not sure what the stock gauge is but there is a range on the Napa one. And yes it can be adapted to fit any tank.

Try Jegs or Summit Racing and replace with a good aftermarket universal unit. You will have to change the sending unit and dash gauge both. The Joyner units are crap.

rocmoc n AZ

Napa Auto Parts also has a replacement that is universal. I looked at one but have not ordered or replaced. Seems like it is a good unit. I believe it is a VDO unit. I actually have an extra complete stock sending unit but it is for the deeper fuel tank. I have the tank that is under the rear seat so this one is too long.