kenfain

I don't have one of these, but it does seem like an  excessive amount of crank time. Not to mention the extra wear on the starter. 

Probably be best to go ahead and download the shop service manual. It'll easily pay for itself, if you own the kubota for any length of time. There's always lots of useful service information there.

Welcome to the forum Molly!

I'd like to point out that there are limits to available amperage, with these things. If you want lots of bass, then you'll need lots of amps. That little engine probably won't generate enough 12v power for anything more than a good factory stereo. With any kind of amplifier added, you'll have to keep the engine running to keep the amp draw from draining the battery.

Facing the same problem, I went with a powered speaker from Walmart that's made for tailgating. Plenty of bass, and way more volume than you'll need. The best part is there's no wiring. 

There's a similar problem with the lights, although not as critical since l.e.d. lights are typically lower amp draw than what we had back in the day, and certainly less than a stereo with lots of bass. You'll still need to check the amp draw on anything you plan to install. 

That's a lot of stuff under that cover. Seems likely that at least a couple, and probably most of those parts would have to nest together, with one inside the other. Maybe you missed one, requiring it to be indexed, and it's not fully seated?

The Polaris can also be had in a 6×6 model. That feature isn't offered for the mule. It might be handy on a mountainside. 

 Maybe take the starter apart, and swap just the motor?

Club car makes a solid golf cart. And of course it probably depends on who made the diesel engine.

   But if the price is right, I'd say for overall light duty, that you can't go wrong with a diesel model. I'm assuming that it's one of those lifted golf cart trucks?

Why not just use a lift kit?

I don't have a Joyner, but according to member  @Chieftan, it's a plastic assembly. So it's certainly a possibility.

You might have to remove it for proper testing, but I believe that if you've verified that the actuator is getting the signal to shift, but it's not shifting, then that's going to be the next step. 

If the switch works, then is the 4wd actuator trying to engage the 4wd? Is there a relay in that circuit?

Rocker switches are usually easy enough to test, provided you can get to the connections, either at the dash, or at the differential. Is there a relay in the 4wd circuit? If so, that'll need testing also. 

1 hour ago, Dumbfounded said:

Also as cam picture shows, the left cam lock appears not to be in phase with the right one.

Looks a bit bent too. Is that peening on the hook on the left in that first picture ?

Welcome Nypto, thank you for your service! We like pictures of artifacts here. If you find something good, let us know!

Does it start again, or is it just dead? There's gotta be a main fuse somewhere. I'd start by looking there, if it's dead. If it starts again afterwards, I'd probably start by checking the ground. 

Great news! Glad you got it figured out. Although we didn't do much more than throw guesses at it. Just remember that we were with you all the way lol.

Have you tried pulling the gas cap during the issue? Maybe the vent hole is stopped up? 

That thing got a hemi in it? Looks like fun.

I started out where you are. Tried to find the best way, using old school ideas. Here's what I found. By the time you collect all the components, radio, speakers, amp, etc. The portable bluetooth speaker sounds better all the time(pun intended).

I have the W-King X10. Plenty loud with decent bass, plenty of  volume, and it'll last for hours on high. Got a cheap velcro type bar mount for it. Less than a hundred for both, problem solved, and it pops right out for carry, or you can charge small electronic devices with the oversized battery.

If that's not enough noise, then there's always a tailgating type powered speaker. I've got one of those too. When it's jamming, it's so loud, that it's uncomfortable to walk up to it to manually turn it down. And it's a cheap one. $120 bucks or so. A comparable in dash sound system would be $300 easily. And it can run down your battery if you leave it cranking out tunes while you party. The more power it puts out, the faster that'll happen. The speaker just works, I've never looked back.

Throwing parts at it isn't the best way. It almost never works out well. Patience and checking out all the possibilities first, is the best way. Besides that, it's free. Now we know that the fuel pump is working, you should verify the injector is working also. It's a process of elimination, and that would mostly eliminate the fuel system as the problem. 

Sorry, but I just saw your last post. If starter fluid doesn't work at all. Then you could probably hold off on the injector test. Please verify timing marks first, as the others have suggested. This issue needs to be put to rest.

It has a Delphi hookup. So it won't have the automotive type OBD2 connection. 

But you're not talking to the op. That was back in February. The member that you're talking to said only that he's added gas to the tank. Which means next to nothing. 

Of course nothing is assumed, even on a new machine. But it's exponentially more likely to be either an electrical component, or a fuel issue. On a 300 hour machine, the likelihood of a mechanical failure would be secondary to those two. 

First off, with only 300 hours, shouldn't this be a warranty issue?

It's got a crank position sensor that will tell the onboard computer where the crankshaft is. That will fine tune the timing. If that sensor  goes out, then it won't start, or run. But that should throw a code, so it might not be a sensor. 

It could easily be a fuel issue. Others here have had regular injector failures on these Chinese UTVs. So you should keep an open mind, and not start throwing parts at it.

First, I'd determine that the fuel pump is working, then pull out, and test the injector. If it has fire, and fuel, then it seems most likely to be timing, or possibly the CPU itself given the symptoms, and low hours. 

Just like the op, who hasn't posted a follow up. Yours sounds like a sensor problem. Is there a trouble code? Maybe the dashboard clock is flashing?

The yellow gunk needs to be addressed first, I'd say. If it's in the carb, it's probably gotten to the plugs as well.

I wonder if the ventilation tube isn't sucking up some oil on an incline. 

Interesting theory about the pick-up tube. Anyone know what it's made of? I'm sure that it's a brass fitting sticking out of the top. But what goes down into the fuel?