Cub could that challenge or 700 area cod
Since I’ve got about 7.5k mostly off-road miles on the old T4, the steering rack is pretty sloppy!
Installed a new one pretty easily though…
Had to use a new steering u-joint since the spline on the Joyner rack is a bit smaller/metric.
Used Latest Rage part number AC425152
and a 5/8”- 36 spline - 3/4 double D shaft.
Hopefully someone out there is a T-Boss 410 electrics expert or a Massimo mechanic is viewing this. I parked my 410 and it was working great. I came back a week later and attempted to crank it and nothing. Turned the key and no power. Figured it was a bad/low battery so I charged it. Still nothing. Attempted to jump start it and still nothing. Usually when I put the key in and turn it to the first position, the display comes on and I hear the ECU and other items boot. Now it is doing nothing.
I slowly went through the electrical system and found the main fuse attached to the starter relay, part 71602 (pic 1) blown. I figured replacing this fuse would fix my problem. It didn't. I then ordered a new starter relay thinking maybe that part had gone bad and caused the fuse to blow, but a new relay did not fix the problem.
I have found a work around for starting the machine. If I take one of the purple/black leads (pic 2) and insert one of them in the bottom right of the starter relay (pic 1 and 3) then the machine will get power even with the key in the off position. I'm bypassing something but don't know what. I can use my right hand to hold the wire against the lower right of the starter relay, reach over and hold the brake with my foot, then take my left hand and turn the key and it will crank. As soon as I remove the wire from the relay the machine shuts down. I have even removed the power distributor box and it will still get power when I touch the wire to the relay. Of course this is not the way it should work but if I can't solve this problem somehow I may just have to rig a connector to the relay and bypass whatever is causing the electrical issue. Massimo has told me the purple/black wires on my model are not used.
Any help in figuring what my problem may be or other items I can try?
By Joe Toup
There does not seem to be a lot of good sources out there for troubleshooting and diagnosing ECU problems with my Massimo Buck 400 (which is also a Bennche 400 & Cazador 400 only with different badging), so I thought I'd share some info that I found during my searches the past few days. I was trying to diagnose and repair a hard starting issue. Using the following info, I was able to figure it out. My ignition coil threw a 0351 code. I discovered how to read the codes without an OBDII code reader. The following procedures should help you check your fault codes and clear them if needed.
Fault Code Troubleshooting for Delphi MT05 ECM on the Massimo Buck 400, Bennche Bighorn 400, Bennche Cowboy 400, and Cazador 400
*NOTE: The MT05 ECU is not really OBD 2 compliant. It is much more similar to an OBDI system. I know this because I once converted a Suzuki Samurai from carburetor to a full on EFI system a while back and it had all of the same type of sensors as a Delphi EFI system. The MT05 ECU controls either 1 or 2 cylinder engines commonly found on Massimo, Bennche, and Cazador.
Much of the ECU info was found here:
https://netcult.ch/elmue/HUD ECU Hacker/Delphi MT05 Manual.pdf
Delphi EFI System Design
Delphi EFI employs 5 sensors to monitor engine performance.
1. Crankshaft Position Sensor
2. Coolant Temperature Sensor
3. Oxygen Sensor
4. Throttle Position Sensor
5. Manifold Air Pressure/Manifold Air Temperature (MAP/MAT) Sensor
Delphi EFI employs the following system components.
1. MT05 Engine Control Unit (ECU)
2. Fuel Pump
3. Multec 3.5 Fuel Injector
4. Idle Speed Control Valve (Idle Stepper Motor)
5. Multec Ignition Coil
6. Fuel Vapor Canister Purge Valve
Using the Digital Dashboard to Decipher EFI Trouble Codes
In addition to the diagnostic scan tools, you can use the engine warning light of the Siemens dashboard to diagnose EFI problems. The digital dashboard receives signals from the MT05 ECU, and the engine warning light will flash a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) if the ignition key is switched on/off for three cycles.
When you turn on the ignition, the engine warning light will illuminate, which indicates the EFI system is operational. After the engine is started, the engine warning light will extinguish if the EFI system is working properly. However, if the engine warning light remains illuminated, it indicates the EFI system is not working properly, and there is a system component failure.
Deciphering Diagnostic Trouble Codes
To read the diagnostic trouble code (DTC), open and close the ignition key three times in rapid succession, as follows: open/close—open/close—open. At this point the engine warning light will flash a DTC which indicates the fault in the EFI system. Refer to the attached fault code table to identify the corresponding problem.
The engine warning light will emit a sequence of flashing lights. If the light flashes 10 times, the translated number is 0. If the light flashes one time, the translated number is 1, et cetera. For example, if the MAP/MAT sensor is disconnected, or the connector is shorted to ground, the engine warning light will flash in the following manner (This is an example only).
The engine warning light will flash 10 times: The first number of the DTC is 0
After an interval of 1.2 seconds, the engine warning light will flash 1 time: The second number of the DTC is 1
After an interval of 1.2 seconds, the engine warning light will flash 10 times: The third number of the DTC is 0
After an interval of 1.2 seconds, the engine warning light will flash 7 times: The fourth number of the DTC is 7
The resulting DTC is P0107.
In my case, I had an ignition coil failure that threw a code. When I checked, it was in this sequence: 10, 3, 5, 1. The 10 represents a 0. So the actual code was 0351. I fixed a loose wire and rebooted my ECU using the procedures I detailed below.
If there are other fault codes, the engine warning light will flash the next code in 3.2 seconds after finishing P0107. After all existing fault codes are flashed, the engine warning light will repeat the fault codes, in sequence, until the ignition key is turned off.
To clear fault codes you need an OBDII Fault Code reader and a Delphi 6 pin connector adapter cable that you have to order from China and wait 8 weeks…or you can simply reboot the ECU using the instructions detailed below.
Rebooting the ECU
Perform the following steps to reboot the ECU.
1. Turn off the ignition for 15 seconds.
2. Turn the ignition on/off for 5 cycles. Make sure each cycle lasts about ½ second, verifying the start of the fuel pump for each cycle. If the fuel pump doesn't start during any cycle, begin the entire reboot procedure from the beginning.
3. Turn off the ignition for 15 seconds.
TPS (throttle position sensor) re-learn procedure after rebooting ECU.
This must be done after replacing the TPS or the ECU....and after rebooting an ECU! Source: ECU Hacker. Reworded slightly to make it a more sensible flow in my mind. 1. Turn idle screw one full turn clockwise before starting 2. Start engine, run at low idle until engine warms. Maybe a couple mins. 3. Idle should be above 1500 rpm. If it isn’t, turn it up to 1700 then shut engine off. Do another reboot of ECU. 4. Restart engine and let it stabilize at 1700 rpm. Then turn idle screen down to 1500 rpm and let it stabilize for a few seconds. Once it stabilizes, set to final recommended idle speed for your machine. The placard under your seat should show idles speed, valve adjustment, spark gap, etc. mine shows 1600 rpm.
5. Shit it down. Wait 10-15 second before restarting. Procedure is now complete. Final Notes:
I have included pictures of the OBDII connector and the Delphi 6 pin connector in case anyone wants to go buy your own and build a connector to use for an OBDII reader. You can do the same thing with code reading and resetting using your check engine light on your dash. But some folks want to do it with code readers.
Hope this helps some folks. I have been scratching my head until tonight on how to reset my fault codes. Then I discovered all of this on some motorcycle forums. The source for the diagrams is here:
https://netcult.ch/elmue/HUD ECU Hacker/
I am not a technician. I do not endorse any manufacturers. I am just an OCD driven old man that likes to work on my own crap. I have lots of time to figure things out. If you run into a problem that stumps you, give me a shout. I may be able to give you some ideas. Or maybe not. This system is essentially an OBDI and very simplistic. If you are methodical and patient, most problems can be figure out thru a process of elimination.
Hi All- Long time reader, first time posting. I have a 2016 Mule 4010 (model: KAF 620V). I am having an issue since overloading the payload a couple days ago (yes I'm a dummy). I live on a very hilly property and I was trying to move some large oak rounds for firewood splitting. I put WAY too much wood in the bed and when I started driving, it sputtered, kicked out of gear, and then cut out. I unloaded all the weight and started it again - appeared to be running fine when idling and/or driving on flat ground at slow speed. But when try to go fast or uphill, the RPM's rev high and it sounds like the motor is fine, but it has ZERO speed or power at all (literally creeps uphill at like 2-3 mph and won' go faster or take any weight), and has no power at all.
Other info: 3 weeks ago I did a belt replacement. So I was worried I perhaps screwed that up somehow. But I just opened the clutch housing to check and the belt and clutch appear to be working just fine.... sooo.....
Any ideas what I screwed up by overloading payload and immediately trying to drive uphill? Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
I was riding at approx 30mph when I heard a very loud noise. Engine immediately died and coasted roughly 50ft. There was a trail of oil and now the machine is locked up. Will not crank or go in to neutral. Machine has 3300 miles.
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