2020 Coleman 550 Bad Bearing and Pops Out of Gear When in Forward
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By esmarkey
Hi, I purchased a used Cub Cadet 750 Challenger that seemed like the belt was slipping so I put a new belt in. It still acts like the belt is slipping but now I am thinking it is the clutch?
What is the best way to remedy this problem?
Can the clutch be rebuilt?
Are there aftermarket clutches available?
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By Andy Dickerson
So heard the grinding noise on the drive shaft a couple of times while going down a steep hill. Never heard this before going down the same hill. I already knew about the splines wearing out because of improper heat treating so I went through the process of removing the shaft to just replace it. A lot things need to be removed to get that thing out. Once I had it remove I didn't see any wear on the splines but what I did notice was the rear spline to rear differential had ZERO grease i.e. it was completely dry and I could see rust that had developed on the shaft splines and inside the differential mating surface. The front of the shaft where it connects to the transmission was well greased. Both ends of the shafts have springs in them with the rear spring being multiple times heavier which would force the shaft to mate securely into the transmission. Unless of course the rear is rusted and starts sticking which is what I think was happening. If the rear splines begin to rust and it starts sticking and the spring doesn't have the enough force to overcome the sticking because of the rust, the shaft will not get fully seated into the transmission. If this starts happening frequently it will eventually eat up the front splines on the transmission side shaft splines which is exactly what I see in the pictures of stripped splines.
I don't know why the rear spline shaft wasn't greased but this would cause it to eventually stick. I have been concerned about this ever since reading about it so as soon as I heard the grinding I stopped driving it. Thankfully there wasn't any wear. I'm wondering if this was deliberate or just laziness by the assemblers. It makes no sense not to grease it. The repair manual that I purchased from motorcycle doctor specifies to grease the splines. Both shaft ends have a rubber seal meaning there's is supposed to be grease in there.
I used to have a gold wing and there is a special grease required for the rear drive differential which happens to be a spline shaft setup. They use a lithium grease with moly. I had purchased a couple of tube of Magnalube-gx that I never used as I sold the bike. The Hisun manual recommends using a lithium grease which doesn't have the additives of a lithium moly grease that is specialized for spline shafts. Per magnalube website. "Magnalube-GX, however, uses a proprietary matrix of advanced polymers, molybdenum disulfide, and PTFE, so it stays where you put it without getting pressed out, while also maintaining a low frictional drag."
Anyway, long story short everything is back together and no noise. I would recommend those that haven't checked the grease in the splines on both ends to do so before the shaft get destroyed. Especially If you have heard grinding. Those rubber boots can be pulled back without having to take to many parts off. If you've been hearing grinding then there is probably significant wear already and time to replace the shaft and grease it properly.
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By jdeaton01
Hi, I have a 2015 i believe, landmaster lm400.
I am installing a duromax 420 to replace another oddball honda knockoff ( the black and yellow one).
I am having difficulties removing the primary clutch. I dont know which tool to order. It's like the best kept hidden secret. Idk if i need m12, m14, or whatever size tool i need. Any help would be appreciated
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By schreib69
I just bought an older (2008) Teryx 750 and am having some concerns. Hoping of course, that most are not too big. . . but more knowledgeable folks like yourselves will surely have some ideas. Thanks in advance.
-- about 2700 hrs, camo version
-- Starting: after not running much at the auction site, I tried it and it was tough to start but half of this was likely I did not quite know the tricks for how long to keep the choke on. However, once it started it was kind of hard to keep running until it warmed up(once warmed it starts perfectly every time with no choke). Now, back to running after the first ignition: I had to hold the RPM's up a bit to keep it running and when doing so it sounded as if a little gnome was inside the engine pounding on something at random intervals. Wondering if this could be detonation-- "knocking"? After warming, it disappeared completely. Maybe just need higher octane gas??
-- After starting and running a bit there was a pretty terrible smell, most "like" burning rubber or an electrical fire. No fire or resolution of this. Eventually this TOO went mostly away, but still basically present. Could it be adjustment needed for the main belt variable speed tranny?
-- When I move from neutral into either Lo or HIGH range forward gears, I get gear clashing. I did NOT put foot on brake and read in manual(just NOW) that you are supposed to do so. (I have NOT gotten back out to check and see if this matters. ) OR, could it be part of the drive system is mashed up??! Geez, hope not.
-- There is a big open hole allowing direct sight into the belt transmission on the back right side. This can't be normal, it must require some plastic cover. Right? Any rodent could get right into the transmission!
-- THere appears to be no muffler or spark arrestor unit. This "could " be the cause of some of the smell. . . ?? but that should not smell like burning rubber or electrical smell. . .
SO. That is all.
I sure would appreciate any insight on this issues and finally(!). . . if I was to take this into a local dealer what would you say are the top three issues I should have them address first?
thanks!
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