Super Charger on T2

[Guest Lenny]

Thought I would start a new thread about my super charger installation. I'll provide a full report on the installation with pics, well I guess, when I get a minute in between projects. Forgive me Kinarfi, I didn't intent to kidnap your 'Diff Bet Loss' thread. This post is just continuing from the last post in Kinarfi's thread and hopefully I'll get out of his way.

ksimpsy, That sounds logical to me too. I think I'll try it. What I don't know is if, with the regulator fitting hooked up to the intake and if I eliminate the extra injector I've installed to provide extra fuel is, rather the computer will assist in adding enough extra fuel to run to run the engine properly. This would be great, eliminating a whole lot of trial and error. Currently I'm using a 500cc/per rev blower with a 3" pully being driven by a 4.5" pully. Assuming my engine revs to 6500 before hitting the rev limiter, which is probably high, the blower is turning at 9750rpms. It can go to 15,000rpms. so I'll need more fuel if I spin it faster. I can go from my current 50% over engine rpms to 123%. I'm so impressed with the torque increase that I have just got to try the 6" engine pullyI have which will put the increase to 100% over. I'm thinking that will be enough to allow putting the Trooper into a slide, comming out of a tight turn in the trails. In say, third? And that is with the 31/10.5-15 tires.

Lenny

[brostar]

I found this device yesterday called a FMU or fuel management unit that automatically adjust fuel boost to the engine when required. The FMU is plumbed in after the stock regulator and works by reducing flow back into the tank and increases the pressure. Lenny, from what I can make out, this is a simple way to get extra psi of fuel to feed your super charger so you might already have one, but you will need to upgrade the fuel pump for sure. No computer reprogramming is needed, but the FMU will have to have the correct calibration for your supercharger. Here's what I mean http://www.superchargersonline.com/content.asp?id=84

Hope this helps.

Cheers Mike.

[ksimpsy]

Lenny, do you have an Air Fuel Ratio gauge? this helps in determining if you are rick or lean. and more accurate than checking plugs, 4 stroke plugs are hard to read accurately unlike 3 strokes. this AFR gauge will make your life so easy you just try to keep it in the green.

http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryID=67 Pricey though but worth it for piece of mind

Kevin

[Guest Lenny]

Lenny, do you have an Air Fuel Ratio gauge? this helps in determining if you are rick or lean. and more accurate than checking plugs, 4 stroke plugs are hard to read accurately unlike 3 strokes. this AFR gauge will make your life so easy you just try to keep it in the green.

http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryID=67 Pricey though but worth it for piece of mind

Kevin

Thanks to both you and brostar. I guess I'll have to buy some gauges. By the way ksimpsy, I think you let your secret out. So you have a three stroke engine. More info and pics please What compression should I be getting on a compression gauge. I think mine is down some because of dust that got into it before I caught the problem.

Lenny

[ksimpsy]

OOPSY! for some reason i don't think a 3 stroke would run too well . I think for compression it should be over 100 psi at least probably 120 or at least that's a normal engine isn't it?

Kevin

[Guest Lenny]

OOPSY! for some reason i don't think a 3 stroke would run too well . I think for compression it should be over 100 psi at least probably 120 or at least that's a normal engine isn't it?

Kevin

Think I'm good. Got aprox 165# on each cylinder. That's a relief, been worried for some time. Modified my compression tester to work down that deep hole. Thanks

Lenny

[flatbed]

Lenny, with that much compression you want to keep your boost down low, you are going to have pre ingnition poblems. You also need to be able to retard your timing as you come up on boost. I do not know what to do with the trooper but it is something you must do or you will have holes in your pistons.

[Guest Lenny]

Lenny, with that much compression you want to keep your boost down low, you are going to have pre ingnition poblems. You also need to be able to retard your timing as you come up on boost. I do not know what to do with the trooper but it is something you must do or you will have holes in your pistons.

Thanks for the input Flatbed. This whole thing is a learning curve for me. So far I think my boost is fairly low. I'll be installing my boost gauge today so I'll know. The blower is a 500cc Aisin and according to the internet forums, it is capable of about 8# of boost for a 1000cc engine. I don't know if that is figured at running it to it's maximum RPMs of 15,000 or not. I'm running it to 9-10 thousand. Maybe I'll just not put the big pully on until I know more. The ignition retard concern will take some thinking. How much retard would you guess is needed. Do you know if the computer picks up the engine rotation position from the RPM senser or is it elseware?

Lenny

[ksimpsy]

http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryID=116

this fuel controller is what they used in the turbo kit. you can remove timing not add, but all you do is hook it up and plug in the computer and you can change it all. there is other boxes on that site that will take the place of the stock one so a person could get it to run perfect but those are $2000 or more.

[Guest Lenny]

http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryID=116

this fuel controller is what they used in the turbo kit. you can remove timing not add, but all you do is hook it up and plug in the computer and you can change it all. there is other boxes on that site that will take the place of the stock one so a person could get it to run perfect but those are $2000 or more.

Ksimpsy, You are becoming a great input geru. I like this item, solves some complicated problems. By the way, checked my boost today and maxing out at 5.5 pounds. I think I can nearly double that but based on Flatbed's input tere may be some pre-ignition concerns. If I were to run a mixture of racing and regular gas, would this help the pre-ignition. I really don't need more power but in the sand dunes, the more the better. It definetly has a lot more power already. I see someone got 160HP out of a Turbo charged Trooper. That's a lot. I don't need that much, I'm looking for low end torque. The two approaches seem to each have their own power personalities. The reason I want the supercharger is no delay. I picture coming down into a tight pocket where I have to navigate a tight turn and immediately run up a hill. No head start room. I'm finding that in many cases, I don't need to shift down but instead just pull it in the existing gear I'm in.

Thanks again

Lenny

[flatbed]

Lenny, i think you probably want a total of 18 to 20 digres advance when you

have all your boost. Right now when you are wound out you probaly have around 35 to 38. The crank sensor is going to tell the ECM what rpm you are turning, which will kick the advance in. I know there are kits that will hook up to the manifold to measure boost and control the ecm. You do not have to run a ecm from Joyner. You just need something that will work with your crank sensor. You could use the ecm off a car that has a turbo. Just needs to be campatable with your injectors and your crank sensor. Hope this helps to get you thinking on a different tract, there is a way to make this work without speending alot of money.

Just read your post about getting 5.5 lbs. The racing fuel will be a must, personaly i think you would be good at giving yourself 2 lbs of boost, put a pop of valve in the system that lets the air escape when you get over 2 lbs. this can be done with a spring holding a valve closed in the manifold, put the spring on the oustside of the valve so you control the preasure on the valve, put a adjusting nut so you can set it up with the same spring, you do not need a air cleaner on it because when it opens the air is escaping. you will be surprized with the hp, and i think you would get away with just prieum gas.

[Guest Lenny]

Lenny, i think you probably want a total of 18 to 20 digres advance when you

have all your boost. Right now when you are wound out you probaly have around 35 to 38. The crank sensor is going to tell the ECM what rpm you are turning, which will kick the advance in. I know there are kits that will hook up to the manifold to measure boost and control the ecm. You do not have to run a ecm from Joyner. You just need something that will work with your crank sensor. You could use the ecm off a car that has a turbo. Just needs to be campatable with your injectors and your crank sensor. Hope this helps to get you thinking on a different tract, there is a way to make this work without speending alot of money.

Just read your post about getting 5.5 lbs. The racing fuel will be a must, personaly i think you would be good at giving yourself 2 lbs of boost, put a pop of valve in the system that lets the air escape when you get over 2 lbs. this can be done with a spring holding a valve closed in the manifold, put the spring on the oustside of the valve so you control the preasure on the valve, put a adjusting nut so you can set it up with the same spring, you do not need a air cleaner on it because when it opens the air is escaping. you will be surprized with the hp, and i think you would get away with just prieum gas.

Putting a pop off valve in the intake to releive excess boost is real easy and doesn't cost anything as I can make it myself. So what I'm seeing is to back off the boost, don't run more fuel pressure but instead run larger injectors if more fuel is needed and set the ignition when on full boost to about 1/2 the stock advance. Looks like thinking more fuel or not should be looked at after the other stuff is set up properly. Good stuff. Thanks. Didn't know I could run another ECM. Will have to start looking into it.

Lenny