flatbed

Lenny, a couple things will do what you are saying, but it sounds like your springs might be a little soft on the front letting weight transfer off the back when you get into heavy braking, the other thing is you have to much brake in the front but i do not think that is it. Try rasing the front end and see if it changes it at all, that would give you a idea if that is what is going on.

You always want to use the long side of the gear, since the front and rear difs are feed from different directions, they have to have the teeth made different. It is kind of how a dam is built, the water has preasure on the long side, if it was built backwards or straight it would break, if the water was on the other side it would break. Your gearing is always stronger when you are going forward. I do not know how many buggys i have seen breaking there trany backing into a trailer.

Rocmoc, tried to PM you, you are full and will not recieve like i was, try again, good to here from you Lenny

I have been swamped, jsut put new shocks on the front-end, new fourway bypass with new coil overs, we did not have enough compression. we are testing at glen helen this week end. It is the 91 truck that i am crew chiefing. Nick tyree is the driver, we have our own web site. I am the old man you see in the pictures. Home computer was down for 3 or 4 days but is back up now

rocmoc, how are you doing , i have been very busy with the lucas oil series pro 2 truck. if you want to see what i have on the trooper and drive it, let me know. you can take all the pictures you want and all the measurements. I can not believe you have not change shocks yet.

Lenny, unless you are doing something i am not reading about, is not the drive line going to spin the same as engine rpm which i know you are not going to keep under 1800, you do not drive like grandma.

I have seen the new long travel kit that buggy world in san diego is going to be offering. It looks very nice and will bolt up to the stock mounts. It will have new front a arms and new rear swing arms. It also will come with a set of fox shocks. I do not know how much travel it will have, the car did not have the axles in it, they were getting the axles made. They were using the stock cv joints. Looking at it it was very nice, BUT to get the most out of it you would want to move the upper front shock tower and it looked like moving the rear diff. The car looked like it was probably around 8" wider, I know the guys that are building these for buggy world as they do some flame cutting for me at work. This is not a sales pitch and they do not know i am doing this. It looks like it would work pretty good for using stock mounts and if someone change there mounts it would work very well. The front and rear arms are built very well, and out of good steel. I look at the forum once in a while to see how you guy and gals are doing, I have been very busy as i am now crew chiefing a pro 2 truck in the lucus off road series. My son has the trooper in Arizona, he uses it to hunt and take my new grandson out for cruzing. Hope every one is doing fine. Lenny, i hope you are running a waste gate on your engine, you might also try taking some material out of the head in the combustion chamber, maybe take your lathe and cut some material out of the center of the piston also. Do not forget to check ring gaps as a turbo will make your rings and piston alittle warmer and close the gaps causing broken rings or scored cylinder walls. (i see you are the nutty one of this group, they do have a fearless leader.)

Rocmoc, just read some of the back post, you say you are running 300's over 600's on the rear. you are going to be to soft on the 300's, you will have a hard time staying off the 600's when crusing. if i were you(i could not be that lucky) i think i would run a 450 because of the differnt shock angle that you have. Tell me if i am wrong but when you are hauling ass around a corner the back is going to snap loose and turn the car very fast (your eyes will get big). The only way this won't happen is if you are on the 600 all the time. The 300 is way to weak.

There has been alot of info put on this site about different shocks. I think everybody here knows that i am a fox shock person, I am sure there are other good shocks, but i know the fox shock is a very good and reliable shock, i do not know the others. With my trooper it does not matter how i drive it, wether it is like a idiot or just putting around with the wife, it does very well. The fox 8" shocks fit with out alot of modes on the rear, the front is alittle more difficult because the trooper does not set there front ends up with the right shock geo. I do not run any limiting straps on the front or rear, this lets the springs work in there full cycle. I have over 14" of travel in the front and rear. I am sure you can buy a shock that will bolt in, but if you do the suspension will not be right. Almost anything is better than what comes stock on a trooper, as far as air shocks there is no way i would do that, i think when you are on a side hill it would be bad news, the high side would be trying to flip you, and the low side would be helping. It cost more for good shocks but is well worth it, take your time and get what you want. Race desert.com has alot of good deals on shocks, I just like the fox shocks because they have always been great and had no problems. the coil overs are the only way to go, no ifs about it. 350 over 400 on the front, 8.5 fox shock 400 over 600 on the rear, do not go any softer on the springs. 8.5 fox shock No resivours, you do not need them.

Lenny, have you thought of openning the tunnel so air flows through it from the front, You would be getting clean air to the aircleaner and it would create positive preasure around the engine, the windshield will always have a low preasure behind it, the trick is to keep the dust from coming up from behind the car. On some of the old jeeps they had a curved brow at the rear roof line pushing air down at the back of the car. it must have worked because the rear window always looked halfway clean. Just a different thought.

I do not know if this is the problem, the air cleaners should only be cleaned with the detergent that they give you, or equivelent. Alot of the carb cleaners for carb engines will wipe out the sensers in the throttle body if used to clean air filters. Just a warnning.

we use nitrogen because there is no moisture in it, when the oil gets hot the preasure does not go up in the shock as much. Your valving will stay alot cleaner. As far as the preasure, the shock is not a joyner shock which is alot different story

Rocmoc, i do not use limiting straps on the front or rear. When instaled the shocks i mounted them so that when they were fully exstended the cv's were free on the front and rear. After i did that i removed the ends of the shocks and instaled a longer rubber snuber around the shaft to control how far the shock could colapse so you do not pull the cv's out when you bottom out. The way you get the ends of the shaft is by taking a alum block, drilling a hole the size of your shock shaft, splitting it in half so you can get it around the shaft, hold it in a vise, heat the shaft end to release the lock tight (very important or you will strip alum threads). than you can twist it off. use blue lock tight when you put it back on, not red. One thing to keep in mind is that if you set your swing arms up courect you cv angles get better when the susp drops or compreses.

NO, You will have a hard time finding springs to fit corectly, also the valving is bad. You want a shock that you can adjust the valving. Plus you need a quality shock.

would love the mexico stuff, just no way the wife will go there, Quartzite we would be able to do.

I have it wrote down somewhere on this site, i believe i am running a 600 and 400 on the rear, it might be a 450, when i get home tonight i will try to remember and look. for sure you want the 600s, i tried running a 350 with the 600 because i had them, it was way to soft, when you turned going fast the back would all of a sudden law over and start to turn the car. Now that i am thinking about it i am all most sure i have 600 and 450s in the back. once again this is the best thing you can do is to get the stock shocks off the car. it makes a huge difference in how the car feels, the ride is so much better and so much safer.

On the fox shocks the valve boddy is shorter than the stock shocks, if you wanted to keep the same travel you could put a stop inside the shock on the extension side to make it not so long, you have to be using more than 4.5 inches of your stock shock. suspened the car and measure how much of the shaft is showing. I put rubber snubers around the shaft to keep the suspension from bottoming out and pulling the shafts of the rear-end. Fox shocks are the only way to go.

riverse light, speed and probably tach

Its not the wages that kill us in the US. Its all the crap the goverment imposses on you to do buisness here. Just listen to Nancy Polosi and Barny Frank, that says it all.

Yes they do have valve guide seals, you can tell when they are out by going down hill with your foot off the throttle, or when you have alot of vacum, when you step back on the throotle it will smoke untill it cleans out. Maybe you are lucky and your crank case valve (pvc valve) stuck and was letting the intake pull oil out of the crank case.

Lenny, i think you probably want a total of 18 to 20 digres advance when you have all your boost. Right now when you are wound out you probaly have around 35 to 38. The crank sensor is going to tell the ECM what rpm you are turning, which will kick the advance in. I know there are kits that will hook up to the manifold to measure boost and control the ecm. You do not have to run a ecm from Joyner. You just need something that will work with your crank sensor. You could use the ecm off a car that has a turbo. Just needs to be campatable with your injectors and your crank sensor. Hope this helps to get you thinking on a different tract, there is a way to make this work without speending alot of money. Just read your post about getting 5.5 lbs. The racing fuel will be a must, personaly i think you would be good at giving yourself 2 lbs of boost, put a pop of valve in the system that lets the air escape when you get over 2 lbs. this can be done with a spring holding a valve closed in the manifold, put the spring on the oustside of the valve so you control the preasure on the valve, put a adjusting nut so you can set it up with the same spring, you do not need a air cleaner on it because when it opens the air is escaping. you will be surprized with the hp, and i think you would get away with just prieum gas.

Lenny, with that much compression you want to keep your boost down low, you are going to have pre ingnition poblems. You also need to be able to retard your timing as you come up on boost. I do not know what to do with the trooper but it is something you must do or you will have holes in your pistons.

Just wanted to say Hi to everyone, been busy, still going like mad on the Model A. So the ports were not matched lenny, with the super charger you should do well, just make sure you are not loosing fuel preasure at the guage. you do not want to lean it out. Jim, see why i did not want to take your money, the gears should be cut in a different direction also. Good day every one. Flatbed. EDIT Thanks for not taking my money and it's Jeff or novice mechanic or kinarfi but Jim works too.

use the same shock oil, it is all in the valving, changing the oil changes every function of the shock, by changing valving you can change rate on just one part of the shock.