flatbed

It takes very little to plug the screen in the fuel pump. I have not looked but we probably have a filter after the pump also. on my return line it goes into the bottom of the tank so the air floats away from the pick-up. The plastic filters are made to hold around 5 psi. Our fuel systems run at around 35-40 psi. I do believe when the pump is laying down it traps air and will not prime. My pump is maybe 18" from the tank and below it and it would not prime untill i let the air out of the inlet.

filter goes before the pump. i will take some pictures tonight. the plastic filter will break so don't use one of those. to much fuel preasure.

I moved my filter and pump next to the tank quite awhile ago, have not had a problem since i did the gas tank thing. but------------ after i put my fuel tank back in and filled the tank full, with the pump next to the bottom of the tank, I could not get the pump to prime its self, I thought this was crazy and still do. That pump would not prime its self untill i lossend the hose at the inlet side and let the air out. I think if the pump is laying down it will not prime its self.

Lenny, can you use just one ball in the middle of a long tee, hose out each side, but have the hose run to the oppisite side of the tank, Just like a tee, the ball is able to move freely to both sides and can not create a vacum,

Now you got me thinking, you could also just put in a manual valve for 2 tanks. they are normally 3 postion. swith it to one side of the tank for step hills depending on weither you are going up or down and in the middle for normal crusing. that would be pretty simple to do

The way the tabs are put on the tanks it makes it so the back 2 hold all the weight, the others just balance it. The back 2 tabs need to be moved rearward. On the hose idea for fuel tanks they make a check valve that is inline, where the weight of the ball closes the line. one on each end ofthe tank would solve yourproblem.

Don't be getting yourself into trouble with that hot rod you have, Its not a bad idea to check the nut and bolts after you run hard the first few times. Don't show them rhynos up to much because we all end up needing some help at one time or another. I have had some good times with my buddys, its a blast ha

sounds good, just make sure it don"t beat it self to death. I have not had any problems since moving my sump to the middle.

I e-mailed him new years, got no answer back, but i did get a hold of him about a week before new years and talked to him, he said he had other things he was dealing with but was still reading the forum.

no, i did not lower the front. You will know when you have the 500s working in the back if the shock is working. When you push the back of the car down then let go it should not spring back like before but come up smooth. You are just trying to control the spring on rebound.

See you do understand what is going on. I run about 2" of droop, don't forget i lowered my diff, run those springs down, you want to use as much as that shock as you can. More oil you have to push or pull. Adding the shim on the rebound, did that help, its not letting the car buck. The springs i ran, a 8 and a 10 just fit on the shock to start the threads, i used a spring compresser and wound the nuts down. You are going to want to run 200 psi. exclent choice on the hose and fittings. With the 350s your going to have to wind them down a bit. another thing is do the math and make sure your coil is not binding before you get into the collar. You want your 500s to come in before you get spring bind on your 350's. Argon is ok

I am running 200 psi in all 4 shocks, if you can use nitrogren. It will be alot cleaner and more consistent when it gets hot. With your shock being 3" longer over all than i am you might have to change your upper rear shock mount to keep the hiems from working to much, you might be ok, just a thought. Not sure how big your res is. You want oil in it when the shock is fully extended, but you need to make sure when it is compressed all the way you have room for you nitrogen. Take your measurements while the shock is together so you can figure out how to make the slider betweeen the springs.You are getting it.

Yes, but you would have to change the upper shock mount for the front. You could use the 8 1/2 in the back and i think the 5 1/2 in the front stock mounts. If you have somebody to weld it is notthat hard to change the upper mount on the front. it is worth it.

Probably putting this is the wrong spot, but i figured you guys would want to know how our cars weigh to other utv's. Weighed my daughters teryx today, the front axle was 640 and the back axle was 920, 1560lbs total. her teryx has a full cage. We are not that much heavier, we have a winch, light bar and bigger tires. I was a little surprized.

I new i was using the wrong word, we use the stuff on out trailers, it holds up better than a brass bushing in our rollers for picking the trailers up, these big cranes even use in it in there chivs.

Lenny, that is a 8 1/2 " shock, I am getting over 14" of travel, so if i have 2" of compresion after ride height i an getting 4 to 5" of travel on the 350, That is quite a bit, you will do alot of driving on your susp moving 4 or 5"> when you get into a bump you want that 500 to start working right now, The 350 is taking the sharpness out of the ride. That shock is a front shock in the picture. I have probably compresed that spring combo 5" before puting the shock in the car. On the collar you will also need to have a set screw in it to keep the collar from moving, the treads on the shock have a slot from top to bottom so the set screw does not mess the treads up. On another note if you have a 350 and a 500 the 350 is going to compress untill it is almost colapsed before the 500 goes to work. That 350 is a crusing spring. a sharp bump you will be hitting the bottom of the car on the ground, that is wy you need the collar, like you say to get the 500 to get the work done.

Lenny, i just went back and looked, you need the treaded collar, I will go take a picture and see if i can get jeff to post it. The collar that you made to seprate the springs needs to be about 3' taller on the top side, it needs to go up inside the tender spring. as the shock compreses it will go up and hit the treaded collar inside of the spring taking the tender out of use and making the 500 work. The way it is now you will not use the 500 untill the 350 is completley compressed. I've done my part, Enjoy, Jeff

Very nice. Don't let any more oil go into you resovore than you need to, I did not notice if you have anything to protect your seal for when the shaft bottoms out with the rubber bump stop around the shock shaft. If the guy you are getting springs from has a set of 400 tenders grab them. Also you might have it, i just did not look for the collar that threads on the shock to take the tender out compresion and start working the 500s. Again great job I've done my part, Enjoy,Jeff

Lenny, I thought of putting a teflon wear plate in, but i thought i would still have to grease it because of the gear. The rack is going to want to wear on the corners, top and bottom. Nice piece

good call lenny, i will be putting zerts in

Notice that my steering was getting stiff and hard to turn so i pulled the cover of the rack & pion (6 allen head screws and you have to loosen the small screws to get the boots out of the way). Once it was off i could see the rack was very dry and starting to gull the cover. Once the cover is off you can pull the rack up and out with it still hooked to the tie-rods, You will see the gear in the slot. I spread some grease on the gear and in the slot, also some grease on the rack. You can see i also put zert fitting on the cover so i can grease it without taking it apart . If you do not want to do this you need to aleast pull the boots back so you can get some grease on the rack. This is something everyone that has a trooper needs to do.

Ok, i finally got the weights on the trooper T 2, seems like i have my own little post going here, Hope i am not offending anyone. Anyway i weighed each axle buy them selfs. front axle first, then the back. I had seprate scales. left front 380lbs right front 380lbs left rear 480lbs right rear 520lbs Total weight 1,760 The way i weighed the car, put both front tires on separate scales and then jacked the rear of the car up in the center so the rear springs could not put any cross weight in the car. Did the oppsite for the rear. The car was full of fuel with no extras on it. No spare tire. No one sitting in the car. When you sit in the car, I am 6' and weigh 210bs. 105lbs went to the back and 105lbs went to the front. The cars are balanced better than what i though. I will have the scales here this week-end, if i have time i will try to get un susp weights. GO SAN DIEGO CHARGERS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Talking about a shock and spring package, I have given the numbers off what i have. I need to get some hours on my set-up to see what it feels like once the springs take a set. They always give up a little after they have been used. Let me be the ginny pig so you don"t end up buying extra springs or having to get your shocks revalved. What i have is very close, but we might be able to make it beter.

Took the trooper out this week-end for a short ride, drove into some rough stuff pretty hard and it took it fine, very pleased with how it feels. I am starting to hinge the hood now and build a storage box. I had quite a mess going redoing the wiring and re running the hydrolic lines to get the area behind the shock tower clear so that there was nothing above the frame, so that the storage box will be able to set flat. I am also thinking of putting a reserve tank up there to, a small one for those long rides.

A little over 3 quarts when you change the oil filter too