flatbed

rocmoc, can you post some pictures of the output shaft, i would like to see if it twisted or snaped, there is a place is san diego where we can get parts hardened if we need to. The big thing would be if the parts are made of good steel, I think they are, you guys are just putting more stress on your parts because of the bigger tires. Also did you have yor tires aired down, that gives you alot more traction, but puts even more stress on the running gear.

lenny, you are on the right track with the breathing, the intake manifold needs to be redone so that the air is not having to work so hard to get to the engine. I think just redoing the manifold and making it so the air cleaner is next the the throotle body would make a big difference

The fuse box is on the left side of the driver behind you. you can figure out which fuse is bad with a test light touching the end of the fuse with out pulling them out. there is metal exposed on each side of the fuse.

Once you have the axle and cv back together, jack the car up so the wheels are hanging. you should be able to move the axle from side to side, if you can,t your pulling it out, this can also happen when the susp is compresed all the way. there is a clip on the axle stub that holds the axle on.

This is going to be hard to pass up, I am going to have to work harder to try and fit this in, I think the trooper might be getting jealous of the model a

I think we could use a cerramic clutch with a better preasure plate and be fine, A lot of the cup cars use 8" clutches, we also use small clutches in dragsters, they are just multiple disk.

You can take the relay, if that is what you are looking for, they are square with prongs out the back to any parts store, they can match you a new one, some are alittle pricy.

hi everyone, i have been very busy with work, My dad got real sick, to the point they called the family to Kingman Az because they thought he was not going to make it. He is doing alot better now. If you are old and you catch pneumonia you need to go to the doctor, if you don't your blood turns to poisn and shuts your body organs down. Thats like un pluging the spark plugs and pluging the exhaust, not good. I have been spending alot of time working on my Model a ford, I cut the car in half from front to back, made the car 8" wider. channeled the car 4" built a custom frame that is also wider. It has a big block chevy with a 400 trans and a 9" rear-end. there is a car show at the end of may that i am trying to make. I just ask the wife about the camping trip, i think it will depend how much i have done on the model a. Just briefley read some of the topics on the board, one is power steeering, My model a has a big block with rack and pion steering, it turns fairly easy, we might just need a better rack and pion with a little different gearing, on fuel issues looking at the regulator tells you how much preasure is in the system at idle, if it is like mine you can not see it when you are driving. The best way to check is take the line off and make sure you have alot of flow. If the pump gets something in the suction screen it plugs the pump, you can still get preasure but no flow to keep preasure against the injectors. there is a place in san diego called southland clutch. they can build any kind of clutch you want, change pads and adjust spring preasure on the preasure plate I will stay in touch alittle more now that family life is getting back to normal.

Shocks on the trooper is the best thing you can do for them, it is such a big difference in ride, you will love the fronts even more than the back.

the last thing i did was change to 400 over 600 on the back, made a big difference for the good. The sway bar i am against for 2 reasons. one is you need to have independent wheel travel for what the trooper does best and that is climbing, the other thing is these cars do not need any more weight. Putting the 400s in back took away alot of the car wanting to slide and catch while turning fast. There has also been some talk on toe in or out, remember when you are turning the inside tire is always turning tighter. I have found that i like my car with a little toe out, it seems to make the front tires bite better while turning, i know car manufacters set there cars with toe in because it causes the cars to push in a turn, they do not like a car that the back will spin first. I have always set my toe by using two strait edges against the tires 6" up on the side wall.

Lenny, one thing you want to watch when changing the length of your rack & pion is your bump steer. changing the length or height of the rack & pion can cause the car to turn its self as the suspension cykles, also i think you could change the location of the front diff with out have to redo the driveline, i think there is a sliding yoke in the middle.

Maybe we are talking about 2 different things, i am talking about the drive line angles wether they are axles or the drive line. The back is a cv drive line now. When changing the location of the rear diff i lowered mine plus moved it forward changing all the angles fron stock, since we are running cv,s the same rules do not apply as they would if we were running u-joints.

You guys are thing u-joints in the drive line, you are running a cv joint, it does not mater. Look at your front axle with the cvs in the front axles, they are going every way you can think off with every angle. As far as mounting the diff i believe in rubber, but i do not think it would work good in the diff, to much movement to waller the holes. I mounted mine solid with extra gusets. Rocmoc the rear tires on you are leaning the wrong way alittle, the cv joint will work fine as long as it is not binding. My drive line i tried to keep paralel because of not knowing the bearing in the diff or the trany as to how strong they are.

There is a fuse box on the passanger side, up under the dash that has relays and fuses in it, because it is mounted on a slight bend in the sheetmetal it does not seal. I re- surfaced the back so the box sealed. I think the intake on the engine would be much better if it was fliped to get the throttle body up on top instead of being low, and you would also be able to keep the air cleaner close to it. These engines do not want to breathe at low rpm.

Hi everyone, been busy, my son and his wife just had there first baby. a nice healthy boy, watch out meg!!!!!!! The paddles on 15" wheels is the way to go, but what surprised me even more was changing the front tires, they are like trying to push rocks! You need a large foot print on the front also because of the weight. I think with low tire preasure and the bigger front tires you could probably go any where you wanted to. You really do need the bigger front tires like romoc has, he has noticed a big difference in the sand i am sure. I am able to dig holes in 2nd gear pretty easy when i want to with the paddles so the power is there on the hills. I still think getting the air clearner closer to the throttle body would give us more low end.

Lenny, i have changed the tender to a 400, made the ride softer because i was not getting ;into the 600 has much, have not drove it much but i did launch it and when it hit it did not buck. On the bottom of the shock body there is normally a number telling you what the shock has for valving. I am running a 10" 600 with a 8" tender, with the angle you are going to have to have your shock i would run around a 425 tender and a 600 main spring, split it with 2 10s. let me think on the valving.

Sounds like a teaser on the news channel, i hate those. SORRY, jeff

Rocmoc, is that the rate you are quoting for the year, My wife has sorta tried, but gave up because they could not find the trooper. I f so i take it is ok to contact your guy.

And i was wineing aboout the drive way being damp this morning, we would have so many wrecks in San Diego, it would be good watchin with these southern calif drivers, we got some real winners here.

I just read that Robby Gordon won the season opener in Laughlin. I have watched him race alot. Alot of people think he runs wide open all the time. This is not true, he is very steady on the throtle, you can tell he is coming from along distance away because there is not alot of changing in engine RPM. When you are taking your foot of the throtle and stabing it back on it really upseats your suspension, Just like braking as you you hit a bump or ditch, you compress your susp by hiting the brakes witch takes away from your susp abibility to absorb the bump. Robby is crazy and he deffentely has a attitude, but i sappose you have to, to be as a aggresive as he is with his driving style. In San Falipe about 10 years ago they clocked him at 154 mph on a dirt road, he is a very Talented driver. Just so i can brag they clocked me 148 in the same race. Anyway some of this applys with the troopers in that they do better when you are steady on the throtle, You will find your ride alot smother not hitting the brakes as you are about to hit a bump.

The Trooper has had its problems, the drive line issue was probably the biggest. Joyner has fixed that. As far as saftey the trooper is very stable, It is very hard to roll or get to go over backwards. The ball joint issue is something to be concerend about, i do not know if they have corrected that problem or not, but is something that can be fixed fairlly easy. I have been around most other UTV"s and seen the problems they have, they don"t have the ball joint problem, but i have seen the whole a-arm get ripped off. If i were to go buy another UTV again i would still buy the Trooper, It does what i need it to do, and i ask more than i should from it.

1-----Install rack to hold keg of beer. 2-------run hose and coilsthrough ice chest. 3--------------have hose hanging from roof with correct size AND SHAPE nipple . 4 --------------retrain to obey or trade in for new model.

If there is one thing you do on your trooper it is doing what jim and lenny are suggesting on the fron-end. DO NOT TRUST THOSE BOLTS IF THEY ARE TIGHT. They need to lock the ball joints into the arm so they can not fall out even if they are loose.

Let me see if i can explain this, I think what you might have going on is the front tires are bigger so there is more cantact to the road surface, plus with more of a contact patch with the amount of air you have in the tire is making your spring rate in the front seem higher. The front of the trooper is lighter than the back so you would feel it more. If you look at the tire preasure on any tire it is telling you, say 45lbs at 2700lbs of weight on a tire. That is the amount of air they want you to run if you have that much weight on that corner of the car. My f350 they want me to run 75lbs in the tires, i run around town empty with 45 in the front and 35 in the back, i get very even tire wear and about 45000 on the tires. I aair them up when i haul the 5th well because the tires are running at there max. When you are listening to Nascar, you hear them talking about droping or rasing air preasure, what they are doing is changing the contact patch on the track or CHANGING THERE SPRING RATE. When the tire is softer it it obsorbs some of the energy. Like lenny says there is probably more of difference between the old and new fronts than there is the rears, so you are feeling the fronts more. One other thing that might help explain theis is when you look at the gvw sticker on your car it will tell you what air preasure to run in the stock tires, they are telling you to run a certain lb of air for the weight of that vehickle. I have probably confused you even more. P S I have to run alot of air in my bicykle tires.

said very well, i was lucky it happened when it did, there have been other post on here about it but i ASUMED if the bolt was tight it could not come out, false they will come out, the bolt holding that ball joint in was very tight. Kinarfi agrees, I had it happen also and everything was still tight.