flatbed

Lenny, a couple things will do what you are saying, but it sounds like your springs might be a little soft on the front letting weight transfer off the back when you get into heavy braking, the other thing is you have to much brake in the front but i do not think that is it. Try rasing the front end and see if it changes it at all, that would give you a idea if that is what is going on.

You always want to use the long side of the gear, since the front and rear difs are feed from different directions, they have to have the teeth made different. It is kind of how a dam is built, the water has preasure on the long side, if it was built backwards or straight it would break, if the water was on the other side it would break. Your gearing is always stronger when you are going forward. I do not know how many buggys i have seen breaking there trany backing into a trailer.

Rocmoc, tried to PM you, you are full and will not recieve like i was, try again, good to here from you Lenny

I have been swamped, jsut put new shocks on the front-end, new fourway bypass with new coil overs, we did not have enough compression. we are testing at glen helen this week end. It is the 91 truck that i am crew chiefing. Nick tyree is the driver, we have our own web site. I am the old man you see in the pictures. Home computer was down for 3 or 4 days but is back up now

rocmoc, how are you doing , i have been very busy with the lucas oil series pro 2 truck. if you want to see what i have on the trooper and drive it, let me know. you can take all the pictures you want and all the measurements. I can not believe you have not change shocks yet.

Lenny, unless you are doing something i am not reading about, is not the drive line going to spin the same as engine rpm which i know you are not going to keep under 1800, you do not drive like grandma.

I have seen the new long travel kit that buggy world in san diego is going to be offering. It looks very nice and will bolt up to the stock mounts. It will have new front a arms and new rear swing arms. It also will come with a set of fox shocks. I do not know how much travel it will have, the car did not have the axles in it, they were getting the axles made. They were using the stock cv joints. Looking at it it was very nice, BUT to get the most out of it you would want to move the upper front shock tower and it looked like moving the rear diff. The car looked like it was probably around 8" wider, I know the guys that are building these for buggy world as they do some flame cutting for me at work. This is not a sales pitch and they do not know i am doing this. It looks like it would work pretty good for using stock mounts and if someone change there mounts it would work very well. The front and rear arms are built very well, and out of good steel. I look at the forum once in a while to see how you guy and gals are doing, I have been very busy as i am now crew chiefing a pro 2 truck in the lucus off road series. My son has the trooper in Arizona, he uses it to hunt and take my new grandson out for cruzing. Hope every one is doing fine. Lenny, i hope you are running a waste gate on your engine, you might also try taking some material out of the head in the combustion chamber, maybe take your lathe and cut some material out of the center of the piston also. Do not forget to check ring gaps as a turbo will make your rings and piston alittle warmer and close the gaps causing broken rings or scored cylinder walls. (i see you are the nutty one of this group, they do have a fearless leader.)

Rocmoc, just read some of the back post, you say you are running 300's over 600's on the rear. you are going to be to soft on the 300's, you will have a hard time staying off the 600's when crusing. if i were you(i could not be that lucky) i think i would run a 450 because of the differnt shock angle that you have. Tell me if i am wrong but when you are hauling ass around a corner the back is going to snap loose and turn the car very fast (your eyes will get big). The only way this won't happen is if you are on the 600 all the time. The 300 is way to weak.

There has been alot of info put on this site about different shocks. I think everybody here knows that i am a fox shock person, I am sure there are other good shocks, but i know the fox shock is a very good and reliable shock, i do not know the others. With my trooper it does not matter how i drive it, wether it is like a idiot or just putting around with the wife, it does very well. The fox 8" shocks fit with out alot of modes on the rear, the front is alittle more difficult because the trooper does not set there front ends up with the right shock geo. I do not run any limiting straps on the front or rear, this lets the springs work in there full cycle. I have over 14" of travel in the front and rear. I am sure you can buy a shock that will bolt in, but if you do the suspension will not be right. Almost anything is better than what comes stock on a trooper, as far as air shocks there is no way i would do that, i think when you are on a side hill it would be bad news, the high side would be trying to flip you, and the low side would be helping. It cost more for good shocks but is well worth it, take your time and get what you want. Race desert.com has alot of good deals on shocks, I just like the fox shocks because they have always been great and had no problems. the coil overs are the only way to go, no ifs about it. 350 over 400 on the front, 8.5 fox shock 400 over 600 on the rear, do not go any softer on the springs. 8.5 fox shock No resivours, you do not need them.

Lenny, have you thought of openning the tunnel so air flows through it from the front, You would be getting clean air to the aircleaner and it would create positive preasure around the engine, the windshield will always have a low preasure behind it, the trick is to keep the dust from coming up from behind the car. On some of the old jeeps they had a curved brow at the rear roof line pushing air down at the back of the car. it must have worked because the rear window always looked halfway clean. Just a different thought.

I do not know if this is the problem, the air cleaners should only be cleaned with the detergent that they give you, or equivelent. Alot of the carb cleaners for carb engines will wipe out the sensers in the throttle body if used to clean air filters. Just a warnning.

we use nitrogen because there is no moisture in it, when the oil gets hot the preasure does not go up in the shock as much. Your valving will stay alot cleaner. As far as the preasure, the shock is not a joyner shock which is alot different story

Rocmoc, i do not use limiting straps on the front or rear. When instaled the shocks i mounted them so that when they were fully exstended the cv's were free on the front and rear. After i did that i removed the ends of the shocks and instaled a longer rubber snuber around the shaft to control how far the shock could colapse so you do not pull the cv's out when you bottom out. The way you get the ends of the shaft is by taking a alum block, drilling a hole the size of your shock shaft, splitting it in half so you can get it around the shaft, hold it in a vise, heat the shaft end to release the lock tight (very important or you will strip alum threads). than you can twist it off. use blue lock tight when you put it back on, not red. One thing to keep in mind is that if you set your swing arms up courect you cv angles get better when the susp drops or compreses.

NO, You will have a hard time finding springs to fit corectly, also the valving is bad. You want a shock that you can adjust the valving. Plus you need a quality shock.