Trooper cranks but wont start
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By SteveMO
Folks:
I live on 11 acres that demands a bit of maintenance, and co-own a large farm a couple of hours away that I hunt on (professionals do the farming). My mowing/brush control/trail maintenance duties are handled by a 57" rough cut mower (Kunz brand), and I also drag logs and pull sprayers and seeders for food plots and such.
I've been using a pair of ATV's for decades to handle this work - a 750 for when I need real power (or need both machines at the same time when I have help) and a 500 cc with fixed rear axle for most duties.
Some of the places I need to work are VERY rough, and very three-dimensional, with steep ups and downs and some side-hilling I've learned the hard way not to try with my independent rear suspension 750, but handle with ease with my fixed rear suspension 500.
I've decided I want to sell the 750 and replace it with a UTV that I hope to use as my main workhorse. If anyone makes a working UTV that fits my specs that's what I'm gonna do. This is an all-work machine, I don't do any recreational riding so don't care about things like top speed.
So looking for advice on what models might handle what I'm looking for:
Gotta have:
2 passenger (1 row)
selectable 4wd
Power steering
Selectable gearing (not CVT)
Power-assisted dump bed
Engine cooling adequate for all-day slow-speed work in the summertime. Like towing a 700lb mower at 4mph all day in 100° weather)
Beefy tow rating, including tonque weight. Nobody ever mentions tongue weight because that exposes how crappy independent rear suspension is for towing safely in rough terrain.
Really want:
Selectable locking diff
Fixed rear axle (Isolates tongue weight from rear suspension. Holds more stable & consistent center of gravity than IRS over side-slopes and other complex terrain, and keeps geometry and suspension response consistent over wide range of tongue-weight of towed loads)
Slow speed cruise control (Factory option or aftermarket, covering at least 4mph - 10mph. For calibrated spraying and controlled mowing speed.
Muffler designed for quiet operation for comfortable all-day use, and to minimize disturbance for getting to hunting grounds. Not concerned about normal motor noise, but don't want something specifically piped to "sound fun".
Any advice on brands or models I'm most likely to have luck with?
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By Greg Kilgore
I installed an electric coolant temp gauge and volt gauge today. The oil pressure gauge I ordered had a bad sending unit. So once the replacement arrives. I'll add that install to the post. The I used a 22mm temp radiator adapter.
1/8 " NTP x 1/8 NTP adapter.
And an electric temp gauge.
Had to take a drill and drill bit to enlarge the 1/8 NTP adapter to allow the temp sending unit to pass thru. Another user on the forum enlarged the 1/8 NTP hole in the 22mm radiator to 1/4 NTP and used a 1/4 NTP x 1/8 NTP reducer. Either way would work. Both has it challenges. And both accomplished the same thing. To get the sending unit just barely in the coolant. If you just put the sending unit in. IMO it just blocks too much of the coolant flow.
I didn't get a pic of how far the sending unit protrudes into the rad adapter. But it wasn't a lot. And also since it an electric gauge the sending unit needed to be grounded. But since there wasn't a place on the temp radiator adapter. I used a clamp to secure a ground/negative wires to the temp sending unit. The gauge wiring was simple. The gauge's wiring harness had a red, green, and black wire. Red goes to a positive. Black to a negative. Green to the sending unit. Since I had some 18 AGW speaker wire. I used that to run to the sending unit. Red to green, black to black.
Then another piece of the speaker wire from the gauge to power source. I tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash. (Just as I did for the overhead fan.)
Then used a 2" hole saw to cut into the plastic above what I'd call the radio door.
The gauge goes to about 174° F then the radiator fan kicks on. Cools down to about 150° F and kicks off. Now the lowest the temp gauge will read is 104° when you first start the machine. That is the nature of the gauge. Even says so on the web page. So I'll just have to live with it.
The voltage gauge
.
Was simple to install. Just a positive and negative wire to connect. Tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash.
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By Greg Kilgore
I installed an electric coolant temp gauge and volt gauge today. The oil pressure gauge I ordered had a bad sending unit. So once the replacement arrives. I'll add that install to the post. The I used a 22mm temp radiator adapter.
1/8 " NTP x 1/8 NTP adapter.
And an electric temp gauge.
Had to take a drill and drill bit to enlarge the 1/8 NTP adapter to allow the temp sending unit to pass thru. Another user on the forum enlarged the 1/8 NTP hole in the 22mm radiator to 1/4 NTP and used a 1/4 NTP x 1/8 NTP reducer. Either way would work. Both has it challenges. And both accomplished the same thing. To get the sending unit just barely in the coolant. If you just put the sending unit in. IMO it just blocks too much of the coolant flow.
I didn't get a pic of how far the sending unit protrudes into the rad adapter. But it wasn't a lot. And also since it an electric gauge the sending unit needed to be grounded. But since there wasn't a place on the temp radiator adapter. I used a clamp to secure a ground/negative wires to the temp sending unit. The gauge wiring was simple. The gauge's wiring harness had a red, green, and black wire. Red goes to a positive. Black to a negative. Green to the sending unit. Since I had some 18 AGW speaker wire. I used that to run to the sending unit. Red to green, black to black.
Then another piece of the speaker wire from the gauge to power source. I tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash. (Just as I did for the overhead fan.)
Then used a 2" hole saw to cut into the plastic above what I'd call the radio door.
The gauge goes to about 174° F then the radiator fan kicks on. Cools down to about 150° F and kicks off. Now the lowest the temp gauge will read is 104° when you first start the machine. That is the nature of the gauge. Even says so on the web page. So I'll just have to live with it.
The voltage gauge
.
Was simple to install. Just a positive and negative wire to connect. Tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash.
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By Hisun .500
does anyone have the diagrams for the 18 pin cdi actually i only need the center 8 pin plug of it the one with the{ ground coil pulse trigger power } please help im going crazy
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By TomW
I was driving the UTV the other day when it simply died. I was using the sprayer which might have drained the 3 year old battery and the stator didn't recharge it. I towed it to my shop and charged the battery . The next morning it cranked first time and I drove it home . I parked it and turned it off . I then tried to crank it and it would only make a weak click noise . I changed the battery and the voltage regulator but it would still only click. I noticed on the digital display that the reverse light was illuminated and would stay illuminated no matter what gear I selected . If I put it in low that light would light but the reverse light stayed on . Same thing for neutral . I shorted the two poles on the starter solenoid with the key on and it cranked up easily and idled fine. You could put it in reverse and it would move backwards and you could put it in low and it would drive forward. The entire time the reverse light stayed on . I checked the fuses and they all looked good . So lets say I get a new started solenoid . If I replace it and it now starts with the key what is the issue with the reverse light . Is it harmful? What else needs to be done to correct ? Any ideas out there.
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