By tom Hansen
What rear differential will work in my 2020 Coleman 400 utv ? I have tried one for a hisun 400 but it is not the same.
By Rey Ximenes
OK, here's the mystery of the day. I was using the UTV the other day and the idiot light came on that said it was overheating. I immediately shut down and checked the coolant. No coolant! I refilled the overflow reservoir and the radiator and all was fine. 2 days later the light is on again. I rechecked the radiator and it was again empty? Bone dry? Now, here's the weird part, There is no coolant anywhere on the floor below the vehicle. I can't even see any on the frame. I have it up on the lift and am getting ready to start tearing into the bottom "skid plate" to see if the leak is in the hoses there. Any suggestions as to where to start? I have yet to begin and I am already baffled!
I had mentioned in a previous post that I had removed the front anti-roll bar from my 2020 Outfitter 400; I ran that way for a month or so without noticing any downside however recently I installed a 'suicide knob" (see below) to assist my Parkinson's disease affected arms in turning the beast--but after doing so i found that in the quicker, tighter turns the knob permitted the vehicle would nosedive a bit, dig in, and plow on hard surfaces--not scary, but quite noticeably.
So I put the bar back on. Then today I got about 1-1/2 miles down the main road on the nearby power lines, turned around and came home to take it off--with the bar on, at 25 to 30 MPH, the front-end of the beast jumped like rabbit at each bump in either wheel rut., for a nearly brutal and quite uncomfortable ride. the bar (20 mm solid steel) is far too robust for the weight of the vehicle. The front bar on my 3900 lb. Infinity M37 is 30 mm...
suicide knob--for you younger folks:
I've seen a number of requests for the location of all the grease points on these machines, and there is no definitive list in the manual. This covers the UT400, but other Coleman/Hisun models should be similar.
First to grease your machine you need a grease gun and some NLGI#2 grease. You will find it helpful to buy a needle attachment as pictured here, due to poor clearance on some of the U-joints. The rest of the zerks use the standard attachment.
Wipe any dirt/grease off the zerk before greasing to prevent pushing gunk inside and causing excess wear.
Push the grease gun on the zerk at a straight angle and give it a few pumps. You will hear an oozing noise or sea grease coming out from the outside of the greased area when you've put enough grease in, a few pumps should be plenty.
If it's just oozing around the zerk you either don't have a good seat with the gun, or the zerk may be rusted and the check ball frozen. Try seating it again and regrease.
Wipe up any excess grease when youre done to prevent making a mess.
Rear A-Arms are greasable with the wheels on from the rear, I took the picture with the wheel off for easier visibility
That's it. All other Hisuns should be substantially similar.
Pretty new to the whole UTV thing and my outfitter 550 has around 35 hours so I figured it’s time to do an oil/filter change and grease the zerks….but then was wondering if I should also drain and replace the front/rear differential fluids? I don’t see anything in the outfitter manual mentioning differentials and I can’t find any videos or instructions online if this is something I should be doing and if so at what intervals? If anyone has any videos showing where to even find the differentials on this name/model I’d be greatly appreciative.
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