Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Pulled fuel tank out today. Had small leak all week,tightened all fittings. Went for a ride and by the time I came back leak was a lot worse. So I drained what gas I had left and pulled the tank. Upon first inspection really did'nt see anything obvious except for a spot where one of the frame tubes had been rubbing on the tank right at the sump. Didn't seem to be any holes worn thru. Filled the tank with water and did an inspection. No leaks where it had been rubbing but it was leaking somewhere. Finally after rotateing the tank around and letting it sit a few minutes in each position finally found it. It was on the bottom front weld seam. When looking at it you can't tell that the weld is not complete, but when you add liquid to it you can see it seep out. It just puzzle's me that it hasn't started leaking sooner. Then I guess it has since I could smell gas from day that I bought it. I guess it was so small that it didn't leave any drops on the ground until now.

Now comes the flushing and airing out proccess before I start tig welding on it.

I guess this will be a good time to add some weld to the brackets and add some foam strips to the brackets and braces and a other place it might rub or come in contact with anything and it should add to the sound deading and vibrations.

Anything else I might want to do while I have the tank out?????

Just wanted fellow Troopers to know where to look in case they have a mystirious fuel leak they can't find.

Hammerdn

Posted

If you have never welded on a tank there are two lines of thought. Fill the tank with CO2 or soapy water. You can just weld an empty tank. Be really really careful. I have done it a couple of times but always nervous when I did it.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Posted
If you have never welded on a tank there are two lines of thought. Fill the tank with CO2 or soapy water. You can just weld an empty tank. Be really really careful. I have done it a couple of times but always nervous when I did it.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Thanks for the advise. I was planinnig on purging the tank with straight Argon but CO2 would be a better option. Have done it before without any problems, but there is always a first.

Hammerdn

Posted

I always run a fan blowing into the the large hole in the tank for a three or four hours. Have the filler cap off and make sure you can feel air comming out of all the other openings. Afterwards, if I can't smell any gas, I know I'm good. Don't let it set around though, gas could seep out of a crevis and create a fuel/air combo in the tank. If it sets, re-fan it. If you haven't added a sump to your tank to prevent you from running out of gas when going down hill, you may want to consider that too. Look at past threads for the various fixes used.

Lenny

Posted
I always run a fan blowing into the the large hole in the tank for a three or four hours. Have the filler cap off and make sure you can feel air comming out of all the other openings. Afterwards, if I can't smell any gas, I know I'm good. Don't let it set around though, gas could seep out of a crevis and create a fuel/air combo in the tank. If it sets, re-fan it. If you haven't added a sump to your tank to prevent you from running out of gas when going down hill, you may want to consider that too. Look at past threads for the various fixes used.

Lenny

Was looking at the option of putting in a front sump and also found a fuel cell that would fit into the space where the storage box is under the driver seat for a auxilary tank for more fuel cap.

Hammerdn

Posted
Was looking at the option of putting in a front sump and also found a fuel cell that would fit into the space where the storage box is under the driver seat for a auxilary tank for more fuel cap.

Hammerdn

Running a line out the back of the tank and the front also, if hooked up to the same pump, won't work. It will always draw from the source with the least resistance which is the fitting above the fuel line.

Posted

Remember seeing a post on adding a sump to the fuel tank but can't find it. Can't remember if you installed check valves at each end or not . Seems to me it would be the wise thing to do, to keep from sucking in air.

Posted
Remember seeing a post on adding a sump to the fuel tank but can't find it. Can't remember if you installed check valves at each end or not . Seems to me it would be the wise thing to do, to keep from sucking in air.

Go here and read the entire set of post, about 6-7 pages worth. You will get the blow by blow of the gas tank issue with various fixes and lots of pics. Rocmoc and myself have added central tank bottom sumps and Kinarfi added a second sourcing canister.

http://www.utvboard.com/Fuel-Tanks-and-Mods-t629.html

Lenny

Posted

I had my tank out and I cut off the stock mounts and welded on a full piece of angle but 3/4" higher so i could put in vibration isolators. I also put an extension on the filler neck so I could fill it with a jerrycan. I have an old tank, i guess the new tanks already have the long filler spout.

Kevin

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Popular Now

  • Similar Topics

    • By rdc
      I posted this before , but I had the year wrong. The part I need is for a 2014, I don't know what all years will work, but I need the 2 bearing style with the spacer in the middle. It looks like this pic. If anyone has one I'll buy it rite away. my email is [email protected]. Thanks, RC

    • By Fmaxiron
      I just purchased a 2023 Honda Pioneer a couple of weeks ago and had the hard roof and a front Honda Pioneer windshield installed at the shop before taking ownership. As things are drying up here in NC, the grass and dust are beginning to fly right through the back of the cab while driving. I was wondering if anyone has any good recommendations on rear windshields, dust panels, or mesh screens to help stop this?
      Thanks a lot!
    • By rdc
      Hope I posted this in the right place. Looking for the left side shaft carrier where the rear bearings go for an 1100cc sand viper, I understand an 800 cc carrier will also work. I need the old style two bearing with the spacer in the middle, the new style with just the one wide bearing wont work. If anybody has one I'll buy it right away. my email is [email protected]
    • By Kierobi
      Have a MSU 500 that we got from my wife's uncle a while back. We've had it running and hauling around the property but it stopped a few months ago after what I thought was running out of gas and I'm just getting to looking into it. 
      Had fuel to the injector but nothing coming out the injector so swapped with new injector and installed inline filter in the supply hose from fuel pump. Tried again and still nothing but noticed this time that I can't hear the fuel pump priming. 
      Pulled off the electrical connection and I'm getting 12V to the fuel pump but it won't run. Put it on a test bench and got it to run so put test lamp between +ve and -ve terminals on the connector and nothing. Checked against the passenger seat securing post and get a light. 
      Tried chasing the wire back and think that the ground is through the ECU but not 100% sure. Can someone confirm for me? And if it is through the ECU, is the ECU just grounded against the frame or is it wired through to the battery?
      Thanks in advance and hope this all make sense!
    • By Butch
      I have a AXIS 700 EFI Fuel pump pressure stays at 40 psi and when return line is blocked the pressure goes to 60 psi. and wll only run with return line closed. 
×
×
  • Create New...