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By HISUN Sector 750 EPS Failu
"Mrs. Smith" doesn't like how loud our Sector 750 is. On a HISUN forum someone said the same thing about his 750. I haven't given it much thought because I've been more focused on stuff that has broken.
So, I used my decibel meter to check ours out. 4000 RPM, Low gear, under 20 MPH . . . . 97 decibels. That's above most ordinances, even state boat noise limits.
AI Overview Ninety-seven (97) decibels is considered very loud and dangerous to hearing with prolonged exposure, roughly equivalent to a newspaper press, a loud nightclub, or a snowmobile. At this level, damage can occur after just 30 minutes, necessitating hearing protection -
By Big Red Dog
Bought my 2009 Yamaha Rhino, (fuel injected of course), recently from the original owner. Only had 500 miles and 70hrs. Starts reliably, however, it will not idle but about 50% of the time. Also, when driving slow in low or high, that is to say, relatively low rpms and below about 10 mph, it bucks and almost wants to die..... not smooth at all. However, at speed (say 12-15 mph or more) it runs very well, like it should. Any ideas?
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By schreib69
I just bought an older (2008) Teryx 750 and am having some concerns. Hoping of course, that most are not too big. . . but more knowledgeable folks like yourselves will surely have some ideas. Thanks in advance.
-- about 2700 hrs, camo version
-- Starting: after not running much at the auction site, I tried it and it was tough to start but half of this was likely I did not quite know the tricks for how long to keep the choke on. However, once it started it was kind of hard to keep running until it warmed up(once warmed it starts perfectly every time with no choke). Now, back to running after the first ignition: I had to hold the RPM's up a bit to keep it running and when doing so it sounded as if a little gnome was inside the engine pounding on something at random intervals. Wondering if this could be detonation-- "knocking"? After warming, it disappeared completely. Maybe just need higher octane gas??
-- After starting and running a bit there was a pretty terrible smell, most "like" burning rubber or an electrical fire. No fire or resolution of this. Eventually this TOO went mostly away, but still basically present. Could it be adjustment needed for the main belt variable speed tranny?
-- When I move from neutral into either Lo or HIGH range forward gears, I get gear clashing. I did NOT put foot on brake and read in manual(just NOW) that you are supposed to do so. (I have NOT gotten back out to check and see if this matters. ) OR, could it be part of the drive system is mashed up??! Geez, hope not.
-- There is a big open hole allowing direct sight into the belt transmission on the back right side. This can't be normal, it must require some plastic cover. Right? Any rodent could get right into the transmission!
-- THere appears to be no muffler or spark arrestor unit. This "could " be the cause of some of the smell. . . ?? but that should not smell like burning rubber or electrical smell. . .
SO. That is all.
I sure would appreciate any insight on this issues and finally(!). . . if I was to take this into a local dealer what would you say are the top three issues I should have them address first?
thanks!
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By Alien10
My 2021 Coleman Outfitter 550 has a rear hitch receiver. It works OK for my towing of junk around the property BUT it is NOT welded directly to the frame of the SxS. Instead it fits into a sloppy tube and is pinned in there by a 5/8" hitch pin. This allows the receiver itself to wobble around to a small degree which can be annoying in some circumstances especially if towing and backing a trailer, it can droop or sway side to side by an inch or two at the ball. . I cannot figure out why they set up the hitch in this way, and am considering welding the tube directly to the frame as found in most hitch arrangements.
Has anyone else found this annoying and welded the tube up to the frame? If so, where there any down side to doing so? (Broken frame etc. ??)
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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