Hisun Vector 500 10 hour inspection
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By Rmillerdesigns
Hello. I have a 2016 Massimo MSU 500. I was putting on a lightbar and i screwed up and didn't disconnect the battery so when i was taking of the positive cable to put on the power from the lightbar it sparked and now the utv has no power. I turn the key over and all i hear is a chirp. No lights or anything. Everything that comes from the battery to the jumper box up by the battery shows voltage but anything coming out does not such as to the winch or anything like that
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By schreib69
I just bought an older (2008) Teryx 750 and am having some concerns. Hoping of course, that most are not too big. . . but more knowledgeable folks like yourselves will surely have some ideas. Thanks in advance.
-- about 2700 hrs, camo version
-- Starting: after not running much at the auction site, I tried it and it was tough to start but half of this was likely I did not quite know the tricks for how long to keep the choke on. However, once it started it was kind of hard to keep running until it warmed up(once warmed it starts perfectly every time with no choke). Now, back to running after the first ignition: I had to hold the RPM's up a bit to keep it running and when doing so it sounded as if a little gnome was inside the engine pounding on something at random intervals. Wondering if this could be detonation-- "knocking"? After warming, it disappeared completely. Maybe just need higher octane gas??
-- After starting and running a bit there was a pretty terrible smell, most "like" burning rubber or an electrical fire. No fire or resolution of this. Eventually this TOO went mostly away, but still basically present. Could it be adjustment needed for the main belt variable speed tranny?
-- When I move from neutral into either Lo or HIGH range forward gears, I get gear clashing. I did NOT put foot on brake and read in manual(just NOW) that you are supposed to do so. (I have NOT gotten back out to check and see if this matters. ) OR, could it be part of the drive system is mashed up??! Geez, hope not.
-- There is a big open hole allowing direct sight into the belt transmission on the back right side. This can't be normal, it must require some plastic cover. Right? Any rodent could get right into the transmission!
-- THere appears to be no muffler or spark arrestor unit. This "could " be the cause of some of the smell. . . ?? but that should not smell like burning rubber or electrical smell. . .
SO. That is all.
I sure would appreciate any insight on this issues and finally(!). . . if I was to take this into a local dealer what would you say are the top three issues I should have them address first?
thanks!
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By jugliner
I have a fuel injected UT400 that will start and idle, but surges and sputters at higher speed. It has been sitting for 2-3 months and was fine when parked in garage. I assumed it was a fuel/air problem and pulled the throttle body and cleaned it up. I've ended up replacing the injector, IAC valve, MAF Temp Pressure Sensor, and fuel filter. I've also checked the spark plug, Still surging. I reset the ECU after every component swap.
I plan to pull the throttle body again and look evrything over for any visible leaks, etc.
Any suggestions would be appreciated on next steps. The problem developing after sitting makes me think it should be something simple, but I'm stumped. BTW the fuel was fresh and treated with Stabil.
Thanks.
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By AlphaSerenity
Hello,
Before I invest $10k+ into a brand new UTV for the farm, I want to get my feet wet with a fixer upper and learn the mechanical side of things. I acquired a 2022 Hisun Axis 500 (Lowes-specific model) from an auction for $500. It has only 200 hours and 120 miles on the engine. It looks like the previous owner used it for ranch work and didn't drive it on trails, deep water/mud, or anything too crazy.
While it runs and moves, it has some problems. It struggles to accelerate up any incline in high and low range and sometimes stalls when I let off of the throttle or change gears. When I apply throttle in neutral, it sounds like it is struggling for fuel/air and pops. When I decelerate, there is a grinding sound coming from the clutch, which I've read to be related to the one way bearing and is semi-common. The last thing I've observed is sometimes the speedometer display sometimes will show a much higher value for a few seconds after barely touching the throttle. Based on the documentation, if a problem is detected from the sensors, the instrument panel display should have an error code rendered on the screen in place of the time, but this isn't happening. Here is a video showing some of these issues (engine is exposed with console removed):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFAkO5TaGps
Here is another video of the clutches in action:
I've done some research, but information on this specific unit and sister units is limited. There does seem to be transmission and clutch issues reported. I still need to check into the head gaskets. I don't have the equipment to test compression right now, but I do plan on ordering what is needed soon. I do have an order in place for some cables to read the diagnostics from the computer. There is a shop two hours away from me that works on Hisun products, but I am hoping the problem can be identified and is something within my ability to handle. Below is what I've already investigated. I am leaning towards the primary clutch needing replacement right now.
After getting it home and unloaded, I did the following maintenance/checks to it prior to operating it further:
Changed the engine/clutch oil (and filter) and gear oils using manufacture recommended viscosity Changed the air filter and checked for cracks in the air intake flow. Verified good suction. Cleaned the throttle body Changed the spark plug and verified the gap was within spec (0.6-0.7mm) Changed the coil and coil wire Changed the fuel lines, fuel injector, and verified the fuel pump was outputting the correct initial prime pressure for ignition and continuous pressure after ignition. Also completely emptied the fuel tank and made sure octane 91+ fuel is being used per manufacturer specs. Ran seafoam through system too. Cleaned the spark arrester and verified no cracks or gaps in the exhaust flow Changed out the O2 sensor Checked all wired connections to ensure they were secured and no breaks were visible Checked the belt for tightness and for any signs of wear and tear Verified 4WD and the differential lock function as expected - still hesitates and struggles uphill Verified the fan gears in the shifter are not corroded and working as expected ECU was reset after replacing sensors and fuel-related parts
Thanks!
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By Jamesshoop1
This was happening to me regularly with the original battery pack, I would drive a few yards and power cut to the motor, no error code, dash works, lights etc, just no drive. Brake lights not on so I don’t think it’s a switch thing. Sometimes it would go back to normal after a few day sitting in the barn. I ended up changing to lithium ion battery 100amp 48v and the problem completely went away for two months so I figured it was something worth the old battteries. Now it’s doing the same thing again, I’ve removed every main electrical connection, cleaned it good, and put it back together. Battery is at100 percent and good voltage. What is interesting is it doesn’t matter how much power I’m drawing, if I’m just creeping along in low or flooring it in high it stops after the same amount of time, about 7 seconds. If I let go of the acceleration right before the 7 seconds I can keep driving like that indefinitely but obviously that’s pretty annoying. Or if I switch immediately to reverse I can back up and go back to F without cycling the key. Has anyone else run into this? It really seems like a safety switch issue to me but unsure what else to check.
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