By Jon Spruill
Hey Guys, I have been chasing a stalling condition for about two weeks now. The bike will crank up and idle fine, then after about 20 seconds it will fall on its face and stall. It happens at both idle and while running at various rpms. You can turn the key off, turn it back on and it will fire right back up without trouble. I have verified spark on both cylinders with a spark tester. I have also added an inline fuel filter, and pulled the injectors to verify proper pulse on each. Things I have replaced - (relearn procedure performed after each component replaced): spark plugs, ECU, relay/fuse box, fuel pump, & throttle position sensor - all with no improvement of the condition. The only warning light I get when the condition occurs is the oil lamp. The bike only has 14 miles. I am at a loss and appreciate any help and suggestions! Thanks
I've seen a number of requests for the location of all the grease points on these machines, and there is no definitive list in the manual. This covers the UT400, but other Coleman/Hisun models should be similar.
First to grease your machine you need a grease gun and some NLGI#2 grease. You will find it helpful to buy a needle attachment as pictured here, due to poor clearance on some of the U-joints. The rest of the zerks use the standard attachment.
Wipe any dirt/grease off the zerk before greasing to prevent pushing gunk inside and causing excess wear.
Push the grease gun on the zerk at a straight angle and give it a few pumps. You will hear an oozing noise or sea grease coming out from the outside of the greased area when you've put enough grease in, a few pumps should be plenty.
If it's just oozing around the zerk you either don't have a good seat with the gun, or the zerk may be rusted and the check ball frozen. Try seating it again and regrease.
Wipe up any excess grease when youre done to prevent making a mess.
Rear A-Arms are greasable with the wheels on from the rear, I took the picture with the wheel off for easier visibility
That's it. All other Hisuns should be substantially similar.
I'm thinking about parting out my 2 Joyner's. Both have less than 500 miles. I would also consider selling whole. I have titles for both and have owned them since new. Located in northwest Florida. I'll be in Gatlinburg , TN for Christmas if someone needs a heavy part delivered Trooper engine has rust on the cylinders and probably won't turn over at this point due to Florida humidity. The sand spider has a broken input shaft in the rear end, so it needs a new (cheap) input shaft and seal. It hasn't been cranked in a couple years. Both are complete.
Hello everyone I am new to the page and I recently bought a Joyner T2 1100 cc, the wiring harness completely was torn apart. I bought the new harness and I'm having problems trying to figure out how to connect everything. I already connected the engine harness, and I ran the front harness through but there's extra plugs there that I don't see a connection for does anybody have the three harness part diagram for front harness, engine harness, and chassis harness and another question the harness that I took off that was bad did not have a fuse box in the front only one that was aftermarket in the back but the new one I have has one in the front and in the back. From what I'm told it's supposed to have two of them.
The 2022 Zforce Sport user manual shows to grease fittings on the rear suspension stabilizer bar. I can't find them. Was there a design change that eliminated the rear grease fittings?