Quantcast
Jump to content

Electrical Issues


DevilDog

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

08 T2 - Fan and fuel pump don't come on engine turns over but won't start, with the key in the on position I get 12V to 3 of the wires on the ign switch but only 8.8V on the 4th wire in start position any Ideas where to start? All fuses are good.

Here's a picture 2491277900104282158TFnBlI_th.jpg and diagram of your key plug, tell us what wire has what voltage. If the fan and fuel pump don't run, it won't start because there's no fuel. The fan and fuel pump relays are behind the drivers seat. Check those fuses and relay bases and look for one that has gotten hot and melted the wires, you may need to pull it off and look in the back of it.

Let us know what you find.

Kinarfi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's a picture 2491277900104282158TFnBlI_th.jpg and diagram of your key plug, tell us what wire has what voltage. If the fan and fuel pump don't run, it won't start because there's no fuel. The fan and fuel pump relays are behind the drivers seat. Check those fuses and relay bases and look for one that has gotten hot and melted the wires, you may need to pull it off and look in the back of it.

Let us know what you find.

Kinarfi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The purple wire has 0 until I turn swich to start it has 8.8.

See fuse block picture # 13 got hot

I don't recognize your fuse box, I would guess that it is the same as my front fuse box, there should be another that has relays in with the fuses, mine is behind the driver's seat, close to the computer. That is where suggest you look for a worse burnt fuse or relay socket or burnt of wire. Every time you get into a fuse box for what ever reason, pull every fuse, inspect, replace. This pulling and replacing makes for better connections because it knocks and corrosion off. Also, go here, http://www.utvboard.com/topic/392-parts-pieces-and-information-for-our-troopers-joyners/page__view__findpost__p__475 then to the red Joyner Manuals and download the appropriate manual if don't have one and also the wiring schematic further down the page.

Just to clarify, when you turn the key to run, no fan, no fuel pump, do the gauges cycle?, when you turn the key to start, the engine cranks but doesn't start.

If you get a chance, please fill out your profile so we can all get to know a little better, welcome to the forum, where are you located?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't recognize your fuse box, I would guess that it is the same as my front fuse box, there should be another that has relays in with the fuses, mine is behind the driver's seat, close to the computer. That is where suggest you look for a worse burnt fuse or relay socket or burnt of wire. Every time you get into a fuse box for what ever reason, pull every fuse, inspect, replace. This pulling and replacing makes for better connections because it knocks and corrosion off. Also, go here, http://www.utvboard.com/topic/392-parts-pieces-and-information-for-our-troopers-joyners/page__view__findpost__p__475 then to the red Joyner Manuals and download the appropriate manual if don't have one and also the wiring schematic further down the page.

Just to clarify, when you turn the key to run, no fan, no fuel pump, do the gauges cycle?, when you turn the key to start, the engine cranks but doesn't start.

If you get a chance, please fill out your profile so we can all get to know a little better, welcome to the forum, where are you located?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My fuse box is behind the drivers seat with (3) JD141B relays mounted below it, I replaced all of these. You are correct no fan no fuel other gauges do cycle, engine cranks won't start.

I'M in chandler Az

Can you tell if the relays are coming in, One of them is the Main relay that is activated by the computer during the cycle process and when the engine is running, the other 2 are fuel and fan power and activate via the main relay, but get their power from the battery, figure out which prongs are the normally open power prongs of the relay and place a jumper in the socket for the fan and the pump and see if they run.

I'm still betting that you have burned up a wire or the connector on one of your relays, take a look at the back side and look for a cooked wire or spade lug.

Myself, being into electronics, replace the fan and pump relays with P FETs and soldered them in for best connection, NO problems since.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can you tell if the relays are coming in, One of them is the Main relay that is activated by the computer during the cycle process and when the engine is running, the other 2 are fuel and fan power and activate via the main relay, but get their power from the battery, figure out which prongs are the normally open power prongs of the relay and place a jumper in the socket for the fan and the pump and see if they run.

I'm still betting that you have burned up a wire or the connector on one of your relays, take a look at the back side and look for a cooked wire or spade lug.

Myself, being into electronics, replace the fan and pump relays with P FETs and soldered them in for best connection, NO problems since.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The purple wire has 0 until I turn swich to start it has 8.8.

See fuse block picture # 13 got hot

you say #13 got hot,was there a fuse there? have you replaced that fuse if there was one? as kinarfi said check the back side of the fuse block,could be burnt wires or connection.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Appears I have some bigger issues going on not getting any spark . Starting to think the ECU is the Issue???

possible, that would cause the problems you have, has it been running, did it just run one and not the next?

Did you down load the wiring diagram that shows the computer connections?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes have the wiring diagram, went riding two weekends ago ran fine, came home parked it in garage came out last Sun just to start it to keep batt charged thats when it wouldn't start.

Anyone have a ECU for sale?

If you know any one down there with a trooper, take your ECU over and try yours on their machine. Did you do anything that might have killed the ecu, like weld on trooper?

EDIT, after you figure out how the unplug the computer, turn the key to run and measure the voltage on pins 44 and 63, fed by a 2 amp fuse and pin 22 from the key

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you know any one down there with a trooper, take your ECU over and try yours on their machine. Did you do anything that might have killed the ecu, like weld on trooper?

EDIT, after you figure out how the unplug the computer, turn the key to run and measure the voltage on pins 44 and 63, fed by a 2 amp fuse and pin 22 from the key

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes I welded a spare tire bracket on, I unhooked the Batt when I did it, you think welding fryed the ECU?

what about that empty fuse spot on your photo i had asked you about in an earlier post?

best thing is to unplug the unit also to be safe but most say disconnecting battery is all you need to do.I think lenny has one for sale.I have an extra but want to hold on to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

what about that empty fuse spot on your photo i had asked you about in an earlier post?

best thing is to unplug the unit also to be safe but most say disconnecting battery is all you need to do.I think lenny has one for sale.I have an extra but want to hold on to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I put a new fuse there, have power to all the fuses, I saw (after the fact )where it said to unplug the ECU before welding.

Lenny took out the ECU on his Trooper with welding, I've been lucky I guess, I have only turned the battery master switch off, but I make sure the welder ground is as close to the weld area as I can get and I don't weld around any wires. Where was your welding ground and I assume you were welding on the cargo bed area.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lenny took out the ECU on his Trooper with welding, I've been lucky I guess, I have only turned the battery master switch off, but I make sure the welder ground is as close to the weld area as I can get and I don't weld around any wires. Where was your welding ground and I assume you were welding on the cargo bed area.

I was welding with TIG which uses a high frequency to initiate spark. It's this high frequency that is real dangerous and can get into electronics easily. Regular MIG welding is far less dangerous.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was MIG welding and had ground was clamped to the metal I was welding on. Drove it two times after that for about 100 miles. Guess I will find a ECU and try it, if its not the problem I'll have a spare.

I would still pull that fuse box off and look at the back side for burnt wires or no connection.I know you said you had power to the fuses but what about from the fuses? maybe i missed something.Good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was MIG welding and had ground was clamped to the metal I was welding on. Drove it two times after that for about 100 miles. Guess I will find a ECU and try it, if its not the problem I'll have a spare.

Doesn't sound like it is the ECU. Go upp to the top of the froum threaqds and look at "Technical issues" and there is a description on how to track down fuel pump problems. On mine, the fan is triggered when the fuel pump comes on and it the fuel pump relay doesn't trigger then the fuel pump won't. Yours may be wired different then mine. MIne is not stock wiring. Also, run a gorund wire to the outside cover of your computer. Mine wouldn't run without it.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you know any one down there with a trooper, take your ECU over and try yours on their machine. Did you do anything that might have killed the ecu, like weld on trooper?

EDIT, after you figure out how the unplug the computer, turn the key to run and measure the voltage on pins 44 and 63, fed by a 2 amp fuse and pin 22 from the key

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By malenurse13
      We just bought a used 2017 American Landmaster TW450. No hour meter that I can find, so not sure exactly how much it has been used. 
      The first 2 days we had it, the starter was a little sketchy, but it started after 2-3 tries. Sometimes when turning the key, we would hear a loud metal "clink" sound. Like the starter made contact, but didn't have enough power to turn. 
      THIS MORNING... Turning the key, we hear a single click sound. That's it. Even with a new battery, the starter is still doing the same thing. Both batteries (old and new) were reading 12.8 volts on volt meter. So I'm wondering what else could be going on? Any ideas on what to look for would be greatly appreciated...
      Thank you!
    • By Nathon S.
      I have a Bennche 700 EFI Bighorn. I’ve recently been unable to get it to start. After a little troubleshooting I realized my fuel pump was not pumping fuel. This weekend I emptied the gas and replaced it with new. I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel injector. I also replaced the battery, spark plug and made sure all my fuses and relays were good. I have confirmed that the float on the fuel pump is not obstructed. The UTV is about 12 years old and has less than 100 hours on it. It has not run in over a year.  Not sure whats going on?!? After doing a little reading I'm leaning towards it being an issue with the ECU or perhaps a faulty wire in the wiring harness. Anyone have any ideas on where to start looking or what I could be dealing with? Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance!
    • By moonrover
      Mine is overheated/burned/melt at connection with its wire connector, parts are ordered to replace both them.  This seems to be a common issue, and some of you already replaced it. I right now just connect the wires, so the fan runs  all the time whenever the initiation is on, but it's better let fan runs as needed with a working temperature sensor/switch. 
      Question: Does some coolant come out by removing the switch/sensor from radiator?  Or, is the threaded hole all the way inside radiator?   If the answer is yes,  I want to drain or extract  some coolant to make its level below the sensor before replacing it, so I don't make a mess with coolant spilled out 
      Thank you.  
    • By REDfletching
      Spent today at a Honda dealership looking at their 520 side by side, then on the way home past our Lowes noticed they had several new UTVs on site, so we U-turned and ducked in there. We were impressed that all that came for $9,999 metal whole length skid plate, nice sized bed, roof, windshield, side mirrors, winch, upgrade looking tires… all of which would have added thousands of dollars to an already expensive Honda 520. Now Honda does have a great reputation from my trusted UTV experienced buddy, so it has that going for it.
    • By Hugh
      My 2018 Hisun sector crew engine cut off after about 15 minutes run. There is no indicator of what is wrong, no error code just die and won't restart until it cool down. I notice that the fan is not running but the temp indicator is on low temp, no overheat indicator. I checked the radiator fluid, it is cool to touch.
      Cooling fans are working, I can hear it running once awhile if I can get the engine warm up enough.  Thank you for all the help.
       
      Hugh



×
×
  • Create New...