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By HISUN Sector 750 EPS Failu
"Mrs. Smith" doesn't like how loud our Sector 750 is. On a HISUN forum someone said the same thing about his 750. I haven't given it much thought because I've been more focused on stuff that has broken.
So, I used my decibel meter to check ours out. 4000 RPM, Low gear, under 20 MPH . . . . 97 decibels. That's above most ordinances, even state boat noise limits.
AI Overview Ninety-seven (97) decibels is considered very loud and dangerous to hearing with prolonged exposure, roughly equivalent to a newspaper press, a loud nightclub, or a snowmobile. At this level, damage can occur after just 30 minutes, necessitating hearing protection -
By Bigmountainrider
Hi Team,
I'm new to the Forum, and I'm looking for your help. I have a 2009 Yamaha Rhino 700 that has stopped consistently charging. Here are the specs and Info I can provide, the Stator and Regulator are new. The Stator does not have continuity to ground on all 3 wires at the engine bay plug. The stator puts out 15-17AC/V at Idle and 38-39AC/V at 2000rpm at both the engine bay plug and the regulator plug. The Battery regulator plug has Battery DC Voltage, when Running the regulator puts out Charging voltage 13.4-15V. I have upgraded/added ground wires from the primary battery to the engine block, from the stock ground wire bolt on the engine to the Chassis and from the secondary battery to the regulator grounding bolt/ground wire. Now the symptoms are it Charges when first started and will continue to charge while driving or at high idle until the machine returns to idle- it will not charge after that, this includes any RPM. If your shut the machine off and restart the process restarts -it will charge until returned to idle. The Machine has and RM Stator and Regulator and a Kimpex Flywheel. The last time it was driven it had an overheating event- unrelated to charging I think, but worth the mention.
Any thoughts would be helpful, I have the factory Regulator- it was working at the time of replacement- when swapped the same issues occur.
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By T6 Texan b
2012 hisun hs800 problem with grinding when moving shifter into high and low gear.
has a shifter cable “not” a rod or link edge . Any thoughts on how to fix this issue?
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By Robert301972
I just bought a 2012 can am commander xt Rotax 1000 4x4 EFI. It has 456 Hours on it and 6543 miles on it. From what I have read that is not a hole lot. It will start Right up run for about 5 or 10 sec then starts to stubble and then stalls. And ever time I start it It runs fine for the first 5 or 10 sec. I can Repeat the process for about 8 or 9 times and will will at least stay running. But it does not run fine until it is warmed up. Once it is up to operating temp it runs and drives fine. I have Replaced the fuel pump. Thinking that was the problem but no. I replace the map sensor It wouldn't even start with the new one in. So I put the old one back in and it started Right back up. I Think I had a bad map sensor. I will get a different one. It Is definitely a fuel problem. I just don't know what kind of problem. Here Is my thinking on all the sensors. (Crank sensor) all that does is send a single to the coils. That don't care if the motor is cold or warm. (Map sensor) all that does is measure the temp of the air.(Fuel Injectors) If they were bad it would not start at all. If they were clogged. It would run like shit if it was cold or warm. (Temp sensor) This is the only sensor that tells the computer weather the engine is cold or warm. So what is the temp sensor is telling the computer that the engine is warm. When I first start it. the computer will think that the engine is at operating temp. So It leans out the fuel mixture. So with a lean fuel mixture going into a cold engine. It Is going to stall. I have no scan tool to hook up to the computer. So Please help. I am at my wits End trying to figure this thing out.
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By redneckred
After replacing a master cylinder on this machine, I was bleeding the brakes and discovered the brake line that connects to the rubber hose coming from the master cylinder under the seat and turns into a small tube going to the back brakes appears to be leaking at the joint. I checked the connections and found them to be tight. I was looking at getting a replacement part, but can only find parts for the front brake line hose to the calipers and not anything from the master cylinder back to the rear hoses. Does anyone know where to find this part or what the part number actually is? Not sure if I can fix the leak and I am not a brake hose rebuild guy, never had much luck without them leaking.
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