Reared Issues

Shortedout96 · November 23, 2011

While hunting this past week I was headed back from my stand and my rearend went out, is there a common issue that fails... Curious to know before I pull the rearend out?

Thanks

Adam

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk

Kinarfi · November 23, 2011

While hunting this past week I was headed back from my stand and my rearend went out, is there a common issue that fails... Curious to know before I pull the rearend out?

Thanks

Adam

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk

I'm afraid it is a known issue, there is a kit on ebay to upgrade it to stronger bolts (12.9 instead of 8.8) plus it has shims for tightening up clearances, No one has had problems once they have installed the kit.

Item number: 200668741046 $95.00

This is an excellent forum for troopers and there is lots of information for the reading.

Here's my photos of my differential failure.

Welcome,

Kinarfi

Also, If you will fill out you profile so we can all get to know you a little better, it may turn out that one of us live just around the corner.

November 23, 2011

Tquote name='Shortedout96' timestamp='1322057225' post='12834']

While hunting this past week I was headed back from my stand and my rearend went out, is there a common issue that fails... Curious to know before I pull the rearend out?

Thanks

Adam

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk

There is a way you can check your differential without pulling it out even though, if your having a diff problem, you will end up pulling it anyway. First you want to replace the oil drain plug with a 3/8" pipe plug. Remove the oil drain plug on the bottom. Drill the hole bigger with a 37/64 bit being careful to drill straight in and to not plung thru too far. Next, using a 3/8" pipe tap, tap the hole. Tap in just a few turns at a time and only one turn at a time when getting close while testing that the pipe plug doesn't screw in too far. You want it to screw in only about one turn deeper from being flush on the inside of the case. This makes the hole big enough to see up into the differential using a flashlight. Clean out the shavings as best you can using a piece of L shaped bent wire to hook the shavings out from around the inside of the hole. A few chips missed won't hurt anything as they are aluminum and soft enough to not hurt any gears. Now to check the workings, first jack up the rear end so both wheels are off the ground. Put the transmission into gear, make sure the differential is not locked. Now turn one rear wheel. The other wheel should turn the other direction. If you hear a bunch of crunching noise, you have a problem. If the other wheel doesn't turn, first look to see if the drive shaft is turning when turning one wheel. If it is, you may not be in gear. If you are in gear, and the drive shaft still turns, you may have a different problem. If the driveshaft doesn't turn, look thru the enlarged drain hole while turning one wheel to see if the ring gear is turning while the drive shaft isn't. If it is, the ring gear bolts are more then likely sheared off. If the ring gear is turning and the opposit wheel doesn't turn the other direction, then there is a problem in the spider gear assemble. If the ring gear turns and both wheels turn the same direction, then the differential is locked or something is keeping the spider gears form rotating like broken or jammed gears. If everything seems to be OK, using a screwdriver, see if you can make the ring gear wiggle around indicating that the ring gear bolts are loose. Also you should be able to see the ends of the ring gear bolts. The heads of the bolts are on the other side of the ring gear. Look to see if any of the bolts appear to be backing out while at the sametime rotating the gear to inspect for any broken teeth. If you found any steel chunks in the bottom of the diff, you have broken teeth or something else is broken. If the ring gear bolts stick thru the ring gear and have a hex nut on them, the differential has been upgraded and you shouldn't be having problems unless it wasn't done correctly. If you have your differential out anyway, change the drain plug to the 3/8 pipe plug for easy future inspection. I had a problem and this is what I did. In my case the differential was fine but through this isnpection process, I was assured that everything was A-OK.

Lenny

Shortedout96 · November 24, 2011

Thank You Lenny,

I pulled the difference out today and pulled the pinion out and took the side case off... Found that the retaining ring on one of the spider gears came off causing the spider gear to slip and caught part of the rearend case where the pinion seats towards center of case. It chewed about half of it out... I am wondering if it can be used and be all right or if I will have to break down and buy a replacement complete rearend? See pictures...

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk

November 24, 2011

Thank You Lenny,

I pulled the difference out today and pulled the pinion out and took the side case off... Found that the retaining ring on one of the spider gears came off causing the spider gear to slip and caught part of the rearend case where the pinion seats towards center of case. It chewed about half of it out... I am wondering if it can be used and be all right or if I will have to break down and buy a replacement complete rearend? See pictures...

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk

Are you referring to the pin that the spider gears rotate on? This can come out and hit the case cutting in to it. I'll need to see better pictures of the damage to the case to determine if your ok or not. Can't tell very much from the picture you posted. Try cleaning it up and posting 4 or 5 more pictures from different angles. It will be best if you completely dismantle the diff to take the pictures. From what I can see, I think I see, your case may be all right. There is only one good way to keep the pin from comming out and that is to punch set it in place. The little, retraining set screw, just is not a reliable way to hold it. Is everything else ok? If so, put my diff upgrade kit in before you reassemble it. You can get it on ebay, see post by Kinarfi above. Kinarfi had his pin slide out and damage the case.

Lenny

Kinarfi · November 24, 2011

This is what my rear end looked like and even with that piece missing, I think it would still be a usable differential because the forces are being directed toward the sides (left and right of the photo) of the differential , so the fact that yours didn't break out a piece, your probably all right, but more pictures from the other side would help us advise you.

Be sure and find the little set screw that goes in this hole, it may still be in there and just backed out enough to let the shaft move and cause damage, and when you get around to putting in for the last time, lock tite it because it is the only thing holding that shaft in place, unless you do as Lenny says and put punch marks around the other end of it.

You'll probably find this bearing has froze up, if so, pop the seals off and wash it out real good, it will probably free it up, I took the seals out on my replacement diff so oil can circulate freely thru the bearing.

Note to all, when separating the differential housing, put all the plugs back in and blow air into the vent tube.

Kinarfi

Shortedout96 · November 29, 2011

Lenny

I got the two upgrade kits in... I need some insight to how to get to the C clip that holds the bell onto the side shafts?

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk

November 30, 2011

Lenny

I got the two upgrade kits in... I need some insight to how to get to the C clip that holds the bell onto the side shafts?

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk

I'm not quite sure what your saying but I assume you are trying to get the side shaft out of the bell. In order to do this you have to split the bell open. This is done by removing the 12 bolts that holds the big ring gear on. Once opened up, you will see the spider gears inside the bell. These need to be removed and then you can remove the side shaft. The instructions for how to do this should be in the paperwork that came with the kits. Some differentials have a cir-clip on the outside of the bell holding the side shaft from comming out. If you have this, it will need to also be removed. This clip doesn't really do anything as all the forces on the side shaft are trying to push it out with nothing trying to pulll it in which would cause the spider gears to want to run too close together. That is why Joyner didn't put them on some diffs. I guess they figured that out. If you have any trouble or need further help, PM me your phone number and I'll give you a call. Just take your time when putting the kit in. It's necessary to put it together and take it apart a number ot times to get the clearances correct. Don't short cut this. Remember the clearances can not only be too loose but also too tight.

Lenny

Kinarfi · November 30, 2011

Lenny

I got the two upgrade kits in... I need some insight to how to get to the C clip that holds the bell onto the side shafts?

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk

please re phrase what you're saying, are you trying to get the axle off the differential or are they out and you want to split the diffs?

Kinarfi

Shortedout96 · November 30, 2011

The part I am trying to remove is what the axles slip into that is, the part is out side the dif case it attaches to the splines of the side shafts...

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk

November 30, 2011

The part I am trying to remove is what the axles slip into that is, the part is out side the dif case it attaches to the splines of the side shafts...

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk

This is held on by a cir-clip that is internal in the CV hub. When it's pulled on hard enbough, the cir-clip collaples down out of its groove in the CV hub thus tightening around the side shaft allowing the hub to slide off. This can be a bit of a problem and sometimes it doesn't want to release very easy. Sometimes it comes off ok. You can try a coupleof pry bars between the diff housing and the hub. Even pressure keeping the hub square with the shaft is best. You can also try haqving someone tap on the hub with a hammer while your trying to pull it off. I use a home made bearing seperator tool simular to http://www.harborfreight.com/large-bearing-separator-3979.html on mine when it wants to not let go. This while tapping on it does it. If you use pry bars, don't pry on it so hard that you break the aluminum diff case and have your pry bars 180 degrees across from each other.

Lenny

Southwest Utah

Kinarfi · November 30, 2011

The part I am trying to remove is what the axles slip into that is, the part is out side the dif case it attaches to the splines of the side shafts...

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk

Here's a method that I used once when my nail bars couldn't get it done, bolt a chain around the CV with enough hanging out so that you can get about 3 or 4 feet of slack chain, then with gloves on and slack in the chain, yank the chain straight away from the differential, works just like a slide hammer, I recommend at least a 1/4 inch chain, the heavier the chain, the more kinetic energy, the harder the pull on the CV to make it pop off. Be sure to put some grease on the C clip when you put it back together, and I like to put some sort of dirt barrier between the CV and the diff.

I use a piece of 1/2 polyurethane foam cut into a ring and it seems to work well.

Kinarfi

PS, Where do you live?

Shortedout96 · December 2, 2011

Thanks Lenny... I tried a bearing separator and using a pulley puller but broke the pulley puller... So I will try it a different way... Knarfi thanks for your assistance too this is one stubborn rearend... I will try the separator again if it don't work I will put the rearend back together and back on the rig and try the chain method...

Knarfi... I live in Missouri

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk