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air intake


lowgear

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I changed my snorkel from the 1 1/2 in. to a 3in Igot way better response off idle and increased power all the way through the rpm range. I don't know if anyone else has done this but I think that those of you with modified engines would really benifit from this. I also increased my fuel pressure to compensate for more air.

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I use 2-1/2" aluminum tubing for mine and I also increased my throttle body to 52mm from stock which is about 38mm. I essentually matched everything up to the area of the input port of the supercharger. Match your intake and exhaust ports up and you will see another good improvement. Easy to do. Stock matching is off as much as 3/16" which is awful.

Lenny

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Lenny, did you machine out the stock throttle body or did you change it to an aftermarket one. I was going to match ports as soon as I can find gaskets I think there are some on ebay. I have seen on here that some have flipped their intakes, I can't do that on mine pattern is wrong. I was going to redesign the intake to just an aluminum box that bolts to the steel manifold. I think that buy shortening the runners it will increase the low end power, the longer runners are good for high rpm running but too much volumn for low end,these engines are to small for the setup as is. What do you think?

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I built one from scratch. Idon't think that boring the stock one out is possible to 52mm. I would look for a after market one. You probably don't need 52mm,maybe 45mm or so would be fine in an unboosted situation. Another problem I ran across with the 52mm is that throttling smooth off idle was touchy as it got a lot of air quickly. I ended up making the throttle wire cam, on the throttle, body to an ellipse. It starts out about 4" away from the shaft then rolls smoothly to the stock distance out. Helped a lot. I would flip the intake. If you have a Trooper the bolts lineup failry good with only a couple needing attention. I welded an extra tab to the side to catch one hole. I ljust got some gasket material from the auto parts store and made my own. Basically clamp it to the surface and carefully tap it around the edges with a ball peen hammer to cut it to the shape, same with the holes. Use a sensor safe gasket sealer. Your probably right on the long runners as the longer they are, the more resistance to flow they have. At low rpms, the air isn't flowing enough to provide a ram effect which it does at higher rpms and this engine was set up to scream at high rpms. Then again, I'm not an engine guy but I am pretty good at physics and do what makes sence. Sounds like you know a lot more about engines then I. You might want to confer with someone who has played with intake runners. there some good sites on Google that talk about it. I'm not as smart as some think I am but I have Google. Flipping the intask makes everything easier to get at and reduces the intake overall length.

Lenny

Lenny

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I built one from scratch. Idon't think that boring the stock one out is possible to 52mm. I would look for a after market one. You probably don't need 52mm,maybe 45mm or so would be fine in an unboosted situation. Another problem I ran across with the 52mm is that throttling smooth off idle was touchy as it got a lot of air quickly. I ended up making the throttle wire cam, on the throttle, body to an ellipse. It starts out about 4" away from the shaft then rolls smoothly to the stock distance out. Helped a lot. I would flip the intake. If you have a Trooper the bolts lineup failry good with only a couple needing attention. I welded an extra tab to the side to catch one hole. I ljust got some gasket material from the auto parts store and made my own. Basically clamp it to the surface and carefully tap it around the edges with a ball peen hammer to cut it to the shape, same with the holes. Use a sensor safe gasket sealer. Your probably right on the long runners as the longer they are, the more resistance to flow they have. At low rpms, the air isn't flowing enough to provide a ram effect which it does at higher rpms and this engine was set up to scream at high rpms. Then again, I'm not an engine guy but I am pretty good at physics and do what makes sence. Sounds like you know a lot more about engines then I. You might want to confer with someone who has played with intake runners. there some good sites on Google that talk about it. I'm not as smart as some think I am but I have Google. Flipping the intask makes everything easier to get at and reduces the intake overall length.

Lenny

Lenny

Lenny,

When you flip the intake, how high does it stick up above the rear chassis tubing? I am running a rear seat and I have a sheet of lexan that sits flush on the top of the rear tubing (I removed the rear dump bed all together). I am concerned It will be in the way of the intake if I flip it.

Also, it is necessary to weld an extra tab for the intake? Silverbullet is selling the supercharger kit which will require the intake to be flipped and I have not heard any mention of welding another tab on the intake.

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The flipped intake is about 1" below the top of the frame tubes. I'm not sure if you have to weld another tab on or not. It's been a long time since I flipped mine. my intake tube going to the supercharger does stick above the tubes about 1-1/2" but Silverbullet will be running his intake different so can't say on his setup. However I don't see any problem with letting the intake tube stick a bit above as it would be where your seats won't hit in but under the seat where there is probably room for something to stick through a bit. I too am eliminating my rear deck and will replace it with a sheet of aluminum that I will just lift off when I need access. The stock deck limits access to just the sides and then crowds you. For my setup, I will be cutting a slot in the aluminum for the intake tube which will be about 3" wide by about 12" long. everything else will be below.

Lenny

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